The Duncan Posted January 1, 2011 Report Share Posted January 1, 2011 Cracking saw mate, you've chosen well, I have the 455 rancher and it hasn't missed a beat. You won't go wrong with the Husky, just bear in mind that your 35cc Husky and also the equivalent Stihl has a LOT more power than the same capacity Ryobi, McCulloch etc. it's a proper bit of kit! Be safe with it, use your bonce and you'll have many hours of service from it. I've run a McCulloch for 3 years and no complaints so far. I'd probably give Stihl a go when I come to replace given what I've read on here. I too have seen numpties wielding chain saws, above head height too with no ppe at all and wearing shorts, t-shirts and flip-flops :blink: Same as you get idiots riding litre + bikes in the summer in shorts and t-shirts. Trouble ahead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob4586 Posted January 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2011 I used a 455 when I did my course, that was a really nice saw, but im a stihl man got six of them :yp: Aha! People do mention a preference but no one says one is better than another Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricko Posted January 1, 2011 Report Share Posted January 1, 2011 In terms of preference, I have both a Stihl & a Husky. 20+ years ago I used Homelite & Sachs Dolmar (I really rated the Sachs Dolmar, but I see they have been taken over by Makita, fair comment I used to rate Makita power tools) As several people have said, use your head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boromir Posted January 2, 2011 Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 (edited) For me I find the husq's best there heavier than most stilh but find they have more power. But ill always buy husqvarna or stihls as you'll get the best safety features. Edited January 2, 2011 by BFG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apache Posted January 2, 2011 Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 I did a lot of research when I bought my chainsaw. Was between a Stihl and a Husky. Found the Husky cut faster and got it on a good deal. Sure I wouldn't have been disappointed with either. I have a lot of tools and I'm sure it's by far the most dangerous one I own. By the time I bought all the safety gear, sharpening kit, grease gun etc etc I'm sure I spent more than I did on the saw. Think it's awful that you can by them in B&Q and Argos. Think they should HAVE to come with a safety kit. Up the price and make it clear what's needed. My gf's father wears an overall when chainsawing. I do worry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sodit Posted January 2, 2011 Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 (edited) I have an electric ryobi chainsaw and the chain stops in less than 0.5 of a second on releaseing the trigger or tripping the the cut out lever, still need protective gear cause things can go wrong far faster than you can react. Use mine with a saw horse for cutting up wood ready for the fire. By the way no regulations in france for purchase either Sodit Edited January 2, 2011 by sodit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conygree Posted January 2, 2011 Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 I have an electric ryobi chainsaw and the chain stops in less than 0.5 of a second on releaseing the trigger or tripping the the cut out lever, still need protective gear cause things can go wrong far faster than you can react. Use mine with a saw horse for cutting up wood ready for the fire. By the way no regulations in france for purchase either Sodit I wouldn't trust it not to cut like deeeeep. I tested my husky 266xp with a 20" bar by letting the power off and dropping it into a pheasant in 1 rev of the chain it had trashed the pheasant(didn't have any other meat to test). I have a little MS170 for small work like hedgelaying, but mainly use a MS 260 & MS 280 with 16" bars and a MS390 & 266XP with 20" bars. I have been using saws for say 15 yrs with all the PPE carefully, but had I little mishap when one of the big saws kicked. I had always assumed that if a saw kicks it's due to the saw bar tip lifting and is stopped by the brake coming on. But I was about to start cutting when the bar tip touched the bough behind the one I was cutting, as the saw lifted it snatched the saw from my right (trigger hand), I pushed the saw away with the left hand, so the brake couldn't come on as my wrist was now level. The saw went vertical and fell back not touching me but it got me thinking about chainsaw safety. If a saw lifted under power it would slice your head in half but from looking at photos of saw accidents most have a small but nasty wound by their nose and recover, meaning it was a limited power cut hence the pheasant test. I concluded that there would be three types of injury; 1 - saw lifting brake on skin cut and bruse, 2- power off chain freewheeling from trigger release 1" deep cut - which matched the photos I have seen and, 3- full power deep fatal cut. So if a saw flicks up and your right hand is snatched from the trigger the brake may not protect you - back to carefull working. Ok I know what the 'books' say with their pictures of the left hand lifting and the brake coming on but this is a weakness in saw safety, there always is. For some cheaper PPE try 'mister solutions' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob4586 Posted January 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 I wouldn't trust it not to cut like deeeeep. I tested my husky 266xp with a 20" bar by letting the power off and dropping it into a pheasant in 1 rev of the chain it had trashed the pheasant(didn't have any other meat to test). I have a little MS170 for small work like hedgelaying, but mainly use a MS 260 & MS 280 with 16" bars and a MS390 & 266XP with 20" bars. I have been using saws for say 15 yrs with all the PPE carefully, but had I little mishap when one of the big saws kicked. I had always assumed that if a saw kicks it's due to the saw bar tip lifting and is stopped by the brake coming on. But I was about to start cutting when the bar tip touched the bough behind the one I was cutting, as the saw lifted it snatched the saw from my right (trigger hand), I pushed the saw away with the left hand, so the brake couldn't come on as my wrist was now level. The saw went vertical and fell back not touching me but it got me thinking about chainsaw safety. If a saw lifted under power it would slice your head in half but from looking at photos of saw accidents most have a small but nasty wound by their nose and recover, meaning it was a limited power cut hence the pheasant test. I concluded that there would be three types of injury; 1 - saw lifting brake on skin cut and bruse, 2- power off chain freewheeling from trigger release 1" deep cut - which matched the photos I have seen and, 3- full power deep fatal cut. So if a saw flicks up and your right hand is snatched from the trigger the brake may not protect you - back to carefull working. Ok I know what the 'books' say with their pictures of the left hand lifting and the brake coming on but this is a weakness in saw safety, there always is. For some cheaper PPE try 'mister solutions' Interesting report there mate. Sounds like you have plenty of experience. I currently have the full set of husqvarna PPE. I thought based on their chainsaw quality their PPE should be good too Cheers, Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpbeaver Posted January 2, 2011 Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 echo chainsaws are worth a go. 5 years domestic warranty, good build quality and not bad on price. i run 7 stihl saws from 30cc to 120cc. be careful they can bite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conygree Posted January 2, 2011 Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 Interesting report there mate. Sounds like you have plenty of experience. I currently have the full set of husqvarna PPE. I thought based on their chainsaw quality their PPE should be good too Cheers, Rob Cheers Rob I mentioned what happened on 'Arbtalk' but wasn't taken up on it, One guy posted some facial pic's of a saw flip and another of his mate with simular wounds which got me thinking after my mishap. To try out my idea hold a stick in both hands and get a mate to hold the centre of the stick, then snatch it away - works everytime. I have always tried to assess any minor incident to prevent the 'big one', be it motorbikes or saws, eg with axes I have had some near goes and from chatting to the old guys years ago and trying out some ideas worked out my own safe working practice - so far so good. For me the word safe - does not mean, take away the risk 100% but reduce the risk of preventing accidents. Although I find working 7lb razor sharp axes far more dangerous than chainsaws, all power tools have their risks. Like you I take PPE and procedure serious - no such thing as a 'quick job'. I fancy buying some Husky PPE soon for next season. I help out on a large shoot and start tree work at the end of the shooting season. I have the most respect for my big saws with 3/8" chain they can 'catch', one guy sawing up firewood caught a small log under his saw which flicked it back breaking his leg in x3 places Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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