freelancer Posted March 31, 2006 Report Share Posted March 31, 2006 I'm new to the air rifle scene and a I recently purchased a Webley sport. Given that this is my first air rifle I'm looking to spend a maximum of £50 on the scope, including the mounts. I'm lucky to live just down the road from a gun shop and the two scopes they have in my price range are both made by Webley: Mounts= £10 Webley 4 x 40 scope= £25 Webley 3-9 x 40 scope= £35 I know that the 40 mean x40 magnification but I have no idea what the 4 means. Or, for that matter, the 3-9. I can also buy online as I have a paypal account. Any suggestions? Thanks for any help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Geordie Posted March 31, 2006 Report Share Posted March 31, 2006 (edited) I'm new to the air rifle scene and a I recently purchased a Webley sport. Given that this is my first air rifle I'm looking to spend a maximum of £50 on the scope, including the mounts. I'm lucky to live just down the road from a gun shop and the two scopes they have in my price range are both made by Webley: Mounts= £10 Webley 4 x 40 scope= £25 Webley 3-9 x 40 scope= £35 I know that the 40 mean x40 magnification but I have no idea what the 4 means. Or, for that matter, the 3-9. I can also buy online as I have a paypal account. Any suggestions? Thanks for any help! Actually it's the 4 and 3-9 that are the magnifications The 40 if the size of the objective lens Try e.b.a.y i got a cracking set of NC Star they look identical to Tasco 6-18X50s inc postage for £35 and a set of mounts (good ones like Webley) will be about £10 to £15 You get more for your money shopping about My Nephew had a Webley Sport (about £120) he paid new and i hope yours is better than his was. It was terrible the pellets were everywhere but the target Have you tried open sights yet to see what the groupings are like? LG Edited March 31, 2006 by Lord Geordie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Axe Posted March 31, 2006 Report Share Posted March 31, 2006 the first nuymbers are the magnification and the last number is the objective lense size. The theory being the larger you go the bigger and clearer the image. So a 3-9x40 gives you a magnification of between 3 to 9 and an objective lens of 40. An ideal choice for a legal limit airgun. Dont forget to look around for secondhand scopes, you can get some great deals. Just make sure that what ever scope you do buy it is rated for airgun use. Edit: I must be typing slow today as thats the second time ive been pipped to the post. :*) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNAKEBITE Posted March 31, 2006 Report Share Posted March 31, 2006 Walther do a good range of scopes for airguns. Heavy spec, low price. Not the best in the world but good value for money. The larger the objective (the one at the front) the more light you get in the scope and the longer you can use it at dusk. Useful for lamping, but we'll leave that topic until you can shoot straight! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roblade Posted March 31, 2006 Report Share Posted March 31, 2006 check out the two link i gave in your other post as they are about the best places to get cheap decent scopes from. or even the sales section on here. but the 3-9x40 scopes will do the job for you, i would recomend the basic hawke scopes or AGS scopes 50 notes should get you the scope and pretty decent set of mounts. as i said in the other post though try and find out where your nearest club is as you can pop along there and you shyould find rifles from the basic plinkers up to full FT (field Target) set ups with scopes from the basic up to the all singing all dancing scopes. Well worth a little drive and a bit of time. As there might be somethign being sold there that would suite you, most peopel who join clubs do it for two reasons, the social aspect and to enjoy shooting, at the club i go to its about 60% chatting and 40 suping coffee. all the best ROB:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freelancer Posted March 31, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2006 (edited) Actually it's the 4 and 3-9 that are the magnifications The 40 if the size of the objective lens You live and learn! Try e.b.a.y i got a cracking set of NC Star they look identical to Tasco 6-18X50s inc postage for £35 and a set of mounts (good ones like Webley) will be about £10 to £15 I'm tempted just to stroll up the road tomorrow and buy the Webley 3-9 x 40 for £35 + £10 for the mounts. I'm lucky to live a 5 minute walk from a gun-shop/shooting-club with indoor and outdoor ranges. Have you tried open sights yet to see what the groupings are like? Yes I've been shooting drinks cans at a range of 10 metres and the grouping is not brilliant: Generally about 3". I'm not sure whether this is due to bad aim or poor pellets. The rifle came with some free practice pellets but they're mostly chipped and deformed. check out the two link i gave in your other post as they are about the best places to get cheap decent scopes from. I phoned BAR and they were very helpful. The guy told me that a budget of £50 is pushing it a bit though. Edited March 31, 2006 by freelancer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freelancer Posted April 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2006 I went out today and bought the 3-9 x 40 Webley scope for £45 including mounts. It's shock tested etc. After making the necessary adjustments I can get a grouping of 1" diameter at 10 metres. How the **** people manage to hit an area the size of a 2 pence piece at 30 yards is beyond me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferret Master Posted April 1, 2006 Report Share Posted April 1, 2006 Hi, Practice makes perfect. Remember that a springer isn't easy to shoot. FM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Axe Posted April 1, 2006 Report Share Posted April 1, 2006 I went out today and bought the 3-9 x 40 Webley scope for £45 including mounts. It's shock tested etc. After making the necessary adjustments I can get a grouping of 1" diameter at 10 metres. How the **** people manage to hit an area the size of a 2 pence piece at 30 yards is beyond me... Unfortunately, it all comes down to technique and practice. Start off with rested shots but rest on a bean bag or something similar. Concentrate on getting your groupings tighter, this will help build your confidence up. Move on to kneeling and then standing. You will notice the springer may well behave differently in the different positions, this is something you have to learn to get used to. There are downloadable HFT files on the net that describe how to hold and fire a rifle. If your having problems ask Roblade, i'm sure he will put you on the right track. Other things you must consider are a good breathing technique and following through on your shot. For breathing I normally take two deep breaths and exhale, then another but upon exhaling I hold about 2/3rds out and take my shot. Dont be too hastey and remember that if you take too long, to simply rest and start again. Also you risk a chance of turning blue and keeling over. Following your shot through is similar to a good golf swing, when you are ready to take your shot dont rush it or snatch the trigger. Take up the pressure against the trigger and then gently squeeze it back making sure you keep the trigger held back and keeping the crosshairs on the objective until the shot has run its course. In time you will be able to perform this naturally without thinking about it and thus speed the process up. Remember practice makes perfect. Good luck and stay safe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whippet.22 Posted April 1, 2006 Report Share Posted April 1, 2006 (edited) When learning to shoot with a springer you must: 1. Hold it with the same pressure every shot. 2. Not so much hold it, but let it rest in your hands. 3. Practise. Lots. Sorry if the first two points contradict each other slightly but you have to hold it very gently and with the same pressure every shot. Another thing you may not have been taught is correct trigger technique, do as Axe says when pulling the trigger, but you also have to have the pad of your finger (where your fingerprint is) on the trigger blade and not pull it with the first joint of the finger as new shooters often do. Welcome to the fun process of learning to shoot, and about shooting in general. You're lucky that you have this forum to ask questions on (and do so, that's what it's here for), but I fully recommend that you enquire about joining a club. No amount of internet tuition can make up for what a someone can teach you in person. As a little sidenote might I add that I think the Webley Sport is made as a youth/learner rifle and as such probably won't be powerfull enough to hunt with. It's perfect for what you're doing now, but many new shooters are all to keen to rush off and hunt something without consideration for their prey. Hope you don't take me the wrong way their, just covering a question you'd probably ask in the future. It's great to see you taking a mature stance on learning, carry on asking as many questions as you like, the more questions you ask then the quicker you will advance in terms of shooting knowledge and skill. Edited April 1, 2006 by whippet.22 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunter Posted April 1, 2006 Report Share Posted April 1, 2006 ^^^^ Very good post!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNAKEBITE Posted April 3, 2006 Report Share Posted April 3, 2006 For breathing I normally take two deep breaths and exhale, then another but upon exhaling I hold about 2/3rds out and take my shot. Dont be too hastey and remember that if you take too long, to simply rest and start again. Also you risk a chance of turning blue and keeling over. Just to add to AXE's informative post I believe the time limit for holding your breath is 6 seconds. Anymore than this causes your eyes to be affected by the lack of oxygen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freelancer Posted April 3, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2006 Another thing you may not have been taught is correct trigger technique, do as Axe says when pulling the trigger, but you also have to have the pad of your finger (where your fingerprint is) on the trigger blade and not pull it with the first joint of the finger as new shooters often do. When you say 'the first joint of your finger', do you mean the joint that's next to your fingernail or the joint that's nearest to your hand? Unfortunately the trigger feels quite tight and it sometimes causes me to snatch when I pull it and it ruins the shot. I've read some online reviews and the consensus appears to be that the sport has a tight trigger. It's great to see you taking a mature stance on learning, carry on asking as many questions as you like, the more questions you ask then the quicker you will advance in terms of shooting knowledge and skill. Here's a question for you: What can be done to remedy the fact that I can't seem to hold the rifle still when I take a standing shot? Is it possilbe, with practice, to hold the riflfe perfectly still whilst standing or will there always be some drift? I know next to nothing about hunting but one would assume that seldom is it necessary to take a standing shot. Here's another question: Am I precluded from firing a high powered weapon by virtue of the fact that I don't have an FAC? Or is it simply that I'm precluded from owning one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferret Master Posted April 3, 2006 Report Share Posted April 3, 2006 (edited) Hi, You are allowed to fire one if you are being supervised by someone who has a FAC. :o The standing shot is often used in hunting by me. It is difficult to shoot a squirrel up a tree from the prone position. FM :( Edited April 3, 2006 by Ferret Master Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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