mad1 Posted October 24, 2011 Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 evening all sorry if this has been covered before but I could not find the info. I am reworking my rizzini o/u I have got the woodwork how I want it but now I am on to the barrel . I have removed the old blueing with wet and dry question is how clean and shiny does it need to be before I take it to the local gunsmiths to be done ( 40 pound if it's prepped 150 if he needs to do it )I have tryed the DIY kits but it was not as dark as I would like it to be Any advise gratefully received m1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 As smooth and shine as you can possible get it. The better polish them the better the Finnish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 I am suprised you were given two prices for preped and unpreped. Most i know always want to do thier own prep as thier reputation rides with the finished job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matty_Harvo Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 Do you want the stuff I used to strip the blue off my semi auto mate that came up excellent and got some left it's yours if you want it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cosd Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 You want to get to almost a "chrome finish", so whatever wet and dry you have used, gradually use finer and finer paper so you can't see any scouring marks! For future reference, you could have used cement cleaner (5% acid)which you can get from any builders merchants, and simply wipe off the blue from your barrels instead of using wet and dry. I stripped my barrels in under 5 minutes, and didn't have the scratches from the wet and dry to worry about afterwards. I simply finished of my prep work using 00 grade wool and ended with almost a mirror finish; Obviously any deeper scratches need rubbing down with appropriate sand paper. Remember, though any marks or scratches in your barrels will be filled with colour by the blueing, it won't hide them. My advice would be to give it your best shot, then run it down to the gunsmith and ask his/her opinion, their experience will know when the barrels are ready for blue. Take some pictures of the stages and post them on here, always good to see some DIY on here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad1 Posted October 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 Thanks for that Looks like I have a lot more rubbing back to do then as there is some light scratches showing through where I have had to use heavier grit to try to clean the pitting marks .. Could I use one of those scotchbrite mops on a drill has any one tryed that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted October 26, 2011 Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 whatever you do make sure you don't make 'waves' in the metal if you know what i mean it would look horrid when a nice finish is applied Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cosd Posted October 26, 2011 Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 Here's some pictures when I did mine. I couldn't resist puting the gun back together when the barrels were stripped And another in the stand I made so I could work on the barrels without handling them Close up of my home bluing Gun back together Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad1 Posted October 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 Yeah that's what mine is like now I thought about leaving them like that but I think it would stand out like a sore thumb in the hide Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vampire Posted October 26, 2011 Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 (edited) As smooth and shine as you can possible get it. The better polish them the better the Finnish Its all in the prep and thats the big cost labour wise,as above the smoother/chrome looking the better and keep your strokes in same direction Edited October 26, 2011 by vampire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardH Posted November 21, 2011 Report Share Posted November 21, 2011 (edited) To get the right job at the end assuming you want the mirror shine you need the metal absolutely gleaming with no pits, marks, scratches whatsover before it goes near the tanks Once blacked the finish will highlight every little mark like neon. If you want a matt finish then less polishing and an acid etch looks very professional. Either way you must remove every last scratch and pit from the steel first. Richard Edited November 21, 2011 by RichardH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardH Posted November 21, 2011 Report Share Posted November 21, 2011 Its all in the prep and thats the big cost labour wise,as above the smoother/chrome looking the better and keep your strokes in same direction I would disagree with that you need to rotate your strokes to keep things straight, if you polish in only one direction you will leave flats which can look dreadful, particularly if you have had to draw file first to remove pitting. Be certain to remove every mark from the previous grade of paper/wheel every single time! Each to their own though Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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