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Lab Pedigrees


oakland rob
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Looking to get a Lab Pup after all the festivities have come and gone and was wondering if anybody could recommend what dogs i should be looking for in the pups pedigree, its seems its fairly important in Labs or have i got this wrong ?

 

Pedigree is important but not as much as eyes,hips and elbows as has been said I'm sure there will be plenty of people on here who can recommend a pedigree don't get a pup that has not had health checked parents atb

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I dont think it realy matters much which precise dogs are in the pedigree, many thoughtless breeding takes place using the best stud dogs to barely useable bitches. It took me well over 12 mnths to find the pup i was happy with, yet i found loads that the breeder simply assumed because a dog had lifted some trophies it was the right one for his bitch. Non the less look for one with a proven background though try to ***** if any thought went into the actual selection process and what the motivation behind the creation of the pups was.

Hips, elbows and eyes is so much more important. If the breeder poo poos testing and certification -walk away! Not tested often can mean a bad result from the vets 1st initial assesment is being covered up and if the breeder did think it important what the heck do they see as important?

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Ok, everyone bangs on about hips and elbows, but an awful lot don't actually know what they mean. I get lots of enquirers asking what the pups hip scores are and do they have clear eyes.

 

A quick break down for folk. Ensure both parents have low hip scores (The pups won't get scored until they are over 12 months old) the current breed average for labs is either 15 or 16 (I cant recall and don't have the time to check) this is the total of both hips, so a dog with 4:3 hips has a total of 7.

 

Elbows - ONLY ever buy a pup from parent that have 0 elbows - you often see people post 0:0 elbows, no such thing. The results are either a total of 0, 1, 2 or 3. (but it makes it easier for folk to understand by putting 0:0 etc)

 

Dogs used to breed from MUST have a clear current eye certificate - not 2 years out of date - The DNA test only looks for Prcd-PRA and not the other conditions labs get - these are important.

 

You should also be looking for dogs which are genetically clear of Prcd-PRA (optigen tested or the Laboklin test for the same) and also clear for CNM - there are now a host of other DNA tests available and the AHT are also looking at a DNA test for hip dysplasia.

 

The pedigree of the dog is NOT so important if you want a nice shooting dog/family pet etc - it only becomes important when you are looking for a top end trialling hound - and even then, a lot of that is stigma. To prove a point, I bought a young bitch last summer from a nothing matting - she only has 2 FTCH in her 5 generation pedigree - she won her first novice trial in September, first time out.

 

To me, for a lab, looks are equally important. I like a lab to look like a lab and not like a lurcher or a collie, it needs to be able to swim in a flooding tide and pick my ducks or jump a 5 bar gate carrying a goose - some of these little snipey trial labs struggle to jump a fence with a rabbit!

 

Try and see both parents - if the bitch owner does not own the stud dog, find out who does and either get some photos or go and see it if you can. Make sure you find parents that you like the look of.

 

Once you know who the parents are, put the mating through the KC mate select, Mating Inbreeding Coefficient Prediction page. This will show the inbreeding coefficient of the matting against the breed mean - you should get a good idea from here about whether or not the breeder has thought about the matting.

 

Mike

Edited by MiLisCer
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