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I know chokes have been talked about a lot on PW over the aeons, but I've got myself into a bit of a habit by using very open chokes on my sporter and scoring pretty well.

 

I did it because one of the layouts I shot was pretty close in so I bunged cyl and skeet in, and there they have stayed. I ended 2011 with an 87-odd average but I'm dreading the day some longer targets are going to hold me back, whether actually or mentally because I know darn well I've got open chokes in there.

 

What should I do next?

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I know chokes have been talked about a lot on PW over the aeons, but I've got myself into a bit of a habit by using very open chokes on my sporter and scoring pretty well.

 

I did it because one of the layouts I shot was pretty close in so I bunged cyl and skeet in, and there they have stayed. I ended 2011 with an 87-odd average but I'm dreading the day some longer targets are going to hold me back, whether actually or mentally because I know darn well I've got open chokes in there.

 

What should I do next?

 

 

Just bung a half choke in if you encounter a very rangey clay :good:

 

No need to be a constant twiddler, but I reckon it's OK to change occasionally for the long ones, if it makes you more confident on them.

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Just bung a half choke in if you encounter a very rangey clay :good:

 

No need to be a constant twiddler, but I reckon it's OK to change occasionally for the long ones, if it makes you more confident on them.

 

Yes, that makes sense. I've always thought it's probably more important to choke up for a longer target than it is to choke down for a close one, but then I may be wrong...?

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Chokes are designed to alter patterns, they do this in combination with the cartridge. A guy i know who shoots trap said the best gun he had was an old miroku that had been teague regulated with a certain Hull cartridge. In an ideal world you would be able to compare the real world performance of a given choke and cartridge combination on a series of the same bird so are 9s with 3/4 better better than 7.5 with skeet. On longer tragets the energy in the pellets is dropping so you need more energy to strike to get a break this can be more pellets or more energetic ones. 9s through skeet and 6 through full are the extremes for sporting IIRC YOu could carry several different types of shell (I know some who do) as much as change the choke. A couple of weeks ago i shot a "60 yard edge on crosser" from a tower i hit it a few times 4/10 IIRC but was told (by coach who was stood next to me) that i had put the gun in the right place and not had a break on at least 2 occasions....

 

87 average I'd be very happy with that!

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open chokes are fine for the closer stuff but you will be surprised how many they cost you on the further stuff. I know you can "break almost anything with a 1/4" but its no good breaking one, you need to be able to break them all. Also the small ammout of closer stuff that you miss I recon in cancelled out by the better sight picture you get from your kills, and from the confidence a big ball of smoke gives you.

I only open up for a sub 20 yard bunny as they do have a habit of doing things you dont want them too, and with 3/4 in your taking a bit of a risk so I put a 1/4 or skeet etc in.

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  • 2 weeks later...

bit of a newbie question for 1/4 and 1/2 which barrel do i put em in top or bottom am a bit new to this multi choke world

 

I think the general consensus is 1/4 in the bottom and 1/2 in the top.

 

You can then use the barrel selector to choose which you shoot first depending on the target distance/presentation etc.

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