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Lansky Sharpening System


Axe
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After sifting through all the knife sharpening systems out there and advice from forum members (sometime back) I finally picked up a Deluxe Lansky Sharpening System. A huge big up for Attleborough Accesories who supplied it at a very cheap price too.

 

Anyway, I read the through the instructions and set about sharpening my Gerber. I first checked the angle which seemed to be set at 25 degrees and set all the guide rods in the five stones. I decided not to use the extra course and went for the course working accross the blade 3-4 times before reversing and doing the same again. I worked down to the fine and tested the blade after. It worked ok but didnt quite feel sharp enough, so I finished it with the extra fine hone and tested again. Just wasnt good enough at all.

 

Is it me or am I doing something wrong?

 

Determined to get a good edge I tried a different approach. Starting from extra course and working down to fine, I reset the blade angle at 20 degrees before finishing with the extra fine but at 25 degrees. This certainly had the desired effect. The gerber now has an extremely sharp edge on it.

 

This alternative approach certainly seems to work but how much will this eat the blade away. I know quite a few of you have Lansky's, so whats your preferred method and what results do you get?

 

Cheers in advance.

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I use mine at 25 degress Axe, but the problem I have is that the fine just seems to 'skid' across the blade, I am not convinced it is doing what it should be - but having said that the balde is very sharp. I asked a qustion on here a while ago as to whether it would be OK to finish with the medium and skip the fine, but the general concesus was to finish with the fine. Most people think it is better to cut than to tear in other words.

 

A 20 degree angle on my Gerber fixed blade would be huge as the blade is about 3mm thick or more.

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Thanks for the reply stuart :welcomeani: Reading the 'blurb' in the how to manual, it says 20 is used for kitchen knives etc and 25 is better for hunting knives. But I just don't seem to be able to get a sharp edge the full length of the blade. Thats why I decided to hone to 20 overall and finish with extra fine at 25. But, this is the first time I have used the system and i'm sure there is a 'nack' to it. I'd must also assume that both the hines and the blade must be in in to a new sharpening system?

 

 

 

Having said that, the kitchen knives I tried it on are extremely sharp. Maybe its something to do with the blade material and thickness.?

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I have taken PIN's recommendation and have bought one of the Spyder sharpening systems from a fella in the States (hoorah for the Dollar being the toilet).

 

I was particularly attracted to the free DVD as I currently have all manner of sharpening gadgets but have never pulled off properly sharpending a knife.

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You will be very impressed with it. From being a total noob (still am really) I now have everything I own more than sharp enough for its job. The edge I have put on my general hunting lock knife is briliant and stays put, occasional re-polish with the fine and a strop and its shaving again :welcomeani:

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Having said that, the kitchen knives I tried it on are extremely sharp. Maybe its something to do with the blade material and thickness.?

 

 

I have also found plenty of oil seems to improve things and wiping the stone regulary with a cloth to stop it clogging up helps as well. Yes I know what you mean Axe, some Gerbers have very thick blades ('powerful' I think they call that :welcomeani: )

 

You can't see it to well here but the top knife has a very long edge due to it's thikness and that is 25 degrees.

 

post-2157-1146681614.jpg

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I have the same knife in the middle, open frame. The more I think about it, the more I think its just because the blade has never been sharpened and I have never used the lansky before. But for now I will continue to use the two angle method, its extremely sharp.

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I havent noticed any rust on my blade at all. But to be honest It doesnt need that much cleaning after doing a bag of rabbits. Its only used to open the cavity and the hand does the rest.

 

 

 

I do however, rinse the blade after and make sure its dried thoroughly. If your really concerned you can protect the areas affected with Vasoline. That way you won't contaminate any meat when you use the blade.

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Mungler haveyou got a link?

cheers KW

 

 

I am not sure if the fella I bought off has any more listed - however, go to www.ebay.com and stick in "Spyderco" and see what you get. Here try this one:

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/SPYDERCO-TRI-ANGLE-SHA...1QQcmdZViewItem

 

That's $64 at the buy it now price (and delivered), which works out to about £35 ish.

 

The UK seller of the same item can be found at:

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SPYDERCO-SHARPMAKER-...1QQcmdZViewItem

 

And wants £45 delivered.

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Let us know how you get on with it mungler. The reason I went for the Lansky is that in theory, it takes the human error out. Incidentally, Lansky also do a similar version as the spyderco. But I don't like the idea of not having a fuide to keep the blade in the same place whilst sharpening.

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I've just been trying different techniques on it and I think I have it mastered. :lol: Think I was pressing to hard on the hones as I was sharpening. The knife now has the a very keen edge from top to toe. :oops: Its a messy job though, but wirth the effort. I'm now a happy bunny, pardon the pun. :good:

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so doing it twice was the answer then Axe?

 

so doing it twice was the answer then Axe?

 

so doing it twice was the answer then Axe?

 

so doing it twice was the answer then Axe?

 

so doing it twice was the answer then Axe?

 

so doing it twice was the answer then Axe?

 

 

 

 

 

Damn, I knew I should have quoted it before he had a chance to edit it!

Come to think of he can edit anything now...

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:oops::lol: Stuart, people are gonna think your mad, they'd be right. :good:

 

Actually, I think I realised what I actually did wrong. Originally and probably because I was pressing to hard, the blade moved. So everytime this happened I had to rteset the knife. But I think each time this was done, the blade position changed slightly giving a slightly different angle at the extremes.

 

So I have now made a very simple template to position the knife in the exact same spot as well. This hopefully will cure the problem. I am very pleased with the result.

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I found that some knives works better at some angles than others but I never use a small angle (personal preference) and never use the fine stone either. (I guess it does not matter much if youre going to cut wood and wire with it anyway.)

The only time I use the course stone is when the knife has not been sharpened before or if use has made it neccessary to take a lot of metal off, in which case I use your two angle method to trim back the sides and then finish off at a greater angle.

If you do a lot of sharpening the diamond stones are well worth the cost as this significantly reduces the amount of work involved and the stones does not get hollow with wear.

Another excellent device of lansky is their ceramic 'sticks' which resharpens an already prevously sharpened knife with very little efford and it is pocket size as well.

As someone else already noted you cannot use too much oil.

 

Cheers

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