Richard V Posted July 13, 2012 Report Share Posted July 13, 2012 Hello everyone, I was thinking of rawl bolts for my cabinet however there is always a risk of the brick chipping and the bolt not being able to anchor to the brickwork (I've got to install it through a drywall, air gap (or insulation) and some unidentified material 175mm in total) before I get to the brick, so it's not as if I'm next to the bricks. So a suitable alternative appears to be resin anchors. Maintenance guy at works claims that resin anchors hold bridges up they are that good! And they seem to be used for safety anchors when the brick is so soft that traditional anchors bolts cannot be used. So they appear to beable to withstand a FEO shaking a metal box about for a few seconds. I'm thinking of this for the resin:- http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p11337 "High strength fixing system for heavy duty loads. For use in standard sealant gun." and for the bolt http://www.tool-net.co.uk/p-345688/rawlplug-m8-x-250mm-r-cas-hex-head-resin-studs-nuts-and-washers-bzp-pack-of-10.html "Ideal for: Safety critical applications into concrete, hard stone & situations where the lack of expansion stress is essential (ie. close to the edge fixings) Examples include stuctural connections to columns and beams, holding down bolts for light structures, machinery, pumps, fans etc." Am I missing something? Has anybody used this methos for installing their cabinet? Cheers Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blunderbuss Posted July 13, 2012 Report Share Posted July 13, 2012 Yep, when I changed cabinets I while back I did this. I live in a new house with dry lined walls and crumbly block so it is really hard to get rawlbolts or similar to grip in the blocks. I did it on the the previous cabinet but it was never totally satisfactory. The resin anchor system sets rock solid and is much more secure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digit Posted July 13, 2012 Report Share Posted July 13, 2012 The brick that you're talking about is your out side skin of the house, if you bolt into that you'll break the vapour barrier and bridge the cavity, you might end up with dampness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aister Posted July 13, 2012 Report Share Posted July 13, 2012 if its dry lined, why cant you fix to the studding? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blunderbuss Posted July 13, 2012 Report Share Posted July 13, 2012 if its dry lined, why cant you fix to the studding? In my case because the cabinet had to go in a specific place in a wardrobe, with no room for manoeuvre, there were no studs where I needed them. Also I feel the cabinet is a bit more secure being bolted to brick than wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard V Posted July 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2012 In my case because the cabinet had to go in a specific place in a wardrobe, with no room for manoeuvre, there were no studs where I needed them. Also I feel the cabinet is a bit more secure being bolted to brick than wood. Same problem here, the only place I really want the cabinet to go is in a windowless room, most of the walls in there is taken up with meters, a boiler, and pipes going from the boiler. I only have a 3-4' gap which is the outside wall. Besides I was under the impression that it had to be attached to bricks/concrete. The brick that you're talking about is your out side skin of the house, if you bolt into that you'll break the vapour barrier and bridge the cavity, you might end up with dampness. I thought the only risk of dampness is if you break the visqueen in the bricks on floor level. I thought simply drilling part way though the bricks will be fine, unless they put in visqueen up vertically up and along the wall, I'm unfortunately not a builder :( If it's likely to cause problems then I might just lay the cabinet on the floor, and bolt it into the ground. My house isn't very big (1 bed bungalow) so anywhere other than this windowless room than it can be seen through windows if stood vertically. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aister Posted July 13, 2012 Report Share Posted July 13, 2012 i have never heard of it having to be fixed to brick/concrete, what about wooden houses! my cabinet has always been fixed to an internal wooden stud partition with wood screws. i always think that no matter how its fixed if i was going to steel guns all i would need is a battery grinder and some 1mm discs. could it be disguised some how if its going to be seen in a window? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fisheruk Posted July 13, 2012 Report Share Posted July 13, 2012 Yep, I've used resin anchors. No Prob. Stuff from Tool station is as good as any. Use mild steel studs which you can also get from Tool Station. You simply cut them to the length you require with hacksaw or angle grinder. Don't be tempted to use stainless studs unless you are sure the resin is the type which will grip it. some doesn't. Galv mild steel is fine. ATB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iced Tiger Posted July 13, 2012 Report Share Posted July 13, 2012 Mines also fixed with resin anchors, bought the kit off evil bay, the inner wall the cabinet is clinker block and the I can't budge the cabinet and I'm 23 stone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard V Posted July 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2012 Many thanks for the replies. I think I'll use the resin stuff, however I'll lay the cabinet on the ground and drill it that way to avoid any complications with damp, etc. I'm not ***** what orientation the cabinet is in as long as it's in that room and the FEO is happy Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mungler Posted July 14, 2012 Report Share Posted July 14, 2012 I used a threaded rod sunk into resin (I think it was liquid polyester). Putting the cabinet on was just a question of marrying it up and pushing it flush against the wall and then putting on washers / nuts to the portion of the threaded bolt left sticking out of the wall and into the inside of the cabinet. Be careful: 1. with you measurements to get everything to marry up / line up 2. don't get any of the resin on any part of the thread you will want to spin a nut down - it sets quickly and like errrr solid resin Job jobbed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digit Posted July 14, 2012 Report Share Posted July 14, 2012 If you can locate one of the vertical studs in the wall and use 4 or 5 of these http://www.screwfix.com/p/coach-screws-bzp-m10-x-70mm-pack-of-50/13531 down the centre of the cabinet into the stud work and bolt the cabinet to the concrete floor it should be solid and a tidy job. Ask the FAO first for they're advise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard V Posted July 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2012 I've just done it. I've cut 4x 150mm M12 bolts from a 1 meter long bolt. Drilled 4 holes into the ground (as I've opted to have the cabinet lying on the floor as it's generally easier to do). Added the resin and it sets in litrally seconds so had to work fast to make sure the bolts went through the holes of the cabinet. The bolts pertrude about 15-20mm above the ground so there is well over 100mm stuck into the concrete. The nuts went in along with washers, the good thing about this is that I can simply undo the nuts to move the cabinet if I wish to. The cabinet won't budge now, the FEO should be happy (I hope) Again, thanks for the advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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