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Right, most of my reloading kit for the .223 has arrived and I'm getting ready to take the plunge and start making my own rounds. Question is, the Hodgdons load that I am using specifies Hornady 55 gr FMJ BT bullets but I could only get PPU 55gr FMJ BT bullets locally today.

 

Can I use them in place of the Hornady ones or will doing that be dangerous?

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Right, most of my reloading kit for the .223 has arrived and I'm getting ready to take the plunge and start making my own rounds. Question is, the Hodgdons load that I am using specifies Hornady 55 gr FMJ BT bullets but I could only get PPU 55gr FMJ BT bullets locally today.

 

Can I use them in place of the Hornady ones or will doing that be dangerous?

thats fine ,just start from the min load and work up slowly ,never go passed the max load
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As above, it's subsonic load so that I can use the rifle at my local range as well as on my permission. I was looking for a load around 1600 - 1900 fps but couldn't find any so thought that i'd start at the simple end.

 

I have a digital scale but will probably be getting a beam scale soon just for the better accuacy, Is the Lee scale ok to start off with as long as you zero it properly. Thats some good info about Titegroup as I haven't had a look at it yet.

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Beware of reduced loads. As a new re-loader i should advise giving the idea a total miss. I fail to see your motivation for such a round as if your "permision" is realy that noise sensitive you realy should examine the ricochet risk very carefiully. If the range has a speed restiction and thats your motivation to a reduced round then consider using another gun there.

The reason i say this as the reason there is no start load is quite simply the danger lies in the low end of such loads and i should certainly advise you to at least use the load EXACTLY as listed if you proceed

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I'm not going to be using these rounds at my permission at all and the only reason I was looking into the idea was that I could dual role the gun for some plinking down at the the range. I have other guns to use at the range but I wanted to get some more use out of the .223.

 

I planned to follow the instructions to the letter, i'm not one for messing around when it comes to something with such serious implications. I'll only be loading around 20 rounds per week so I plan to take my time and measure each load twice etc.

 

Is there any difference between the 502 and 505 or would I be ok with either?

Edited by Livefast123
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Is there any difference between the 502 and 505 or would I be ok with either?

 

Buy once, buy 505. I've been told that they're made by O'haus which I can well believe as they appear identical. I'm using my late father's which has been in frequent use for over 40 years and remains spot on - although the pharmacy is the same, I'm now on the third chemist who kindly checks it out against his calibrated scales every so often.

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Beware of reduced loads. As a new re-loader i should advise giving the idea a total miss. I fail to see your motivation for such a round as if your "permision" is realy that noise sensitive you realy should examine the ricochet risk very carefiully. If the range has a speed restiction and thats your motivation to a reduced round then consider using another gun there.

The reason i say this as the reason there is no start load is quite simply the danger lies in the low end of such loads and i should certainly advise you to at least use the load EXACTLY as listed if you proceed

Kent is spot on, the danger in reduced loads negates, for me anyway, any advantage gained. The danger is detonation where too much space is allowed in the case and the powder explodes ruining the gun and possibly the shooter(s)

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Is there any difference between the 502 and 505 or would I be ok with either?

 

The only difference between the 502 and the 505 is the slight difference in how you set the single and tenth grains. Both use exactly the same knife edge/floating agate bearing set-up so they are both equally as accurate (and will last a lifetime) All RCBS scales are made by Ohaus. (Not sure about the nasty R130)

 

The Lee scale is accurate but not very user friendly - It is under damped and very fidly to set the desired weight.

 

As has already been said, you will need to weigh every charge because of the nature of what you are planning to do. If you were using a load in the 3-4 grain range for something like a target load for a .38 revolver you may well just dump the charge through a measure and a couple of tenths either way wouldn't be a worry. Dumping a charge a couple of tenths light with your squib loads might land you in dangerous territory.

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