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It all depends on how many rounds you want to produce.......I use a Lee Classic Loader for my .223 which is possibly the cheapest out there at £25. You can make a round probably every 40 seconds when you've had enough practice and you can even take it to the range with you to make some more rounds if you run out. As a new reloader myself, I found that it gets you all close and personal with making a round and hopefully gets you sorted on the basics without having to worry about setting dies up etc, apart from the bullet seating depth. It will produce better than factory ammo and with a bit of tweaking will have you producing excellent groups once you find a load that works. I produce around 50 rounds at a time but thats is only because I have to clean cases by hand which takes forever.

 

http://www.henrykrank.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=164_181_474&products_id=1728

http://www.henrykrank.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=164_181_474&products_id=1726

 

Personally I would recommend doing lots of reading on the subject and watch Ammosmith video's on YouTube before even buying the kit. A good reloading manual is always worth buying to. Reloading is fun but it could only take one mistake to put you 6 foot under, knowledge is power in this case. You will also need a fair selection of small hand tools to make sure your reloading stays safe.

 

Have a look at my first reloading thread - http://forums.pigeon...oading-attempt/

Edited by Livefast123
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303 is probably the most obvious calibre to reload due to factory ammo being pretty darn expensive and constantly going up-this is just one i reload myself.

 

I use a Lee breech lock press with Lee deluxe dies.Using the deluxe dies gives you the option of either full length resizing or simply neck sizing.Neck sizing prolongs the life of the case and because 303 British is an old fashioned rimmed cartridge it reduces the chances of head seperation (where the rim rips away from case which is left inside chamber of rifle). Im regulary given spent 303 cases by other people so those which are not fired from my rifle they get full length resized.

 

A good recipe for 303 is: 35 grains of Alliant Reloder 10 with a 170g PPU FMJ bullet and a Winchester large rifle primer. Not including your time-it works out at approximately £38 per 100. Or for the full power load-same bullet and primer, but use 42 grains of Alliant Reloder 15.

 

First thing though-get yourself the Lee reloading book. It really is an informative read.

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Start by watching the youtube videos by Ammosmith and getting a decent reloading manual. You need to work out a solid understanding of what is going wrong as there is no room for mistakes. Home loaded and developed ammunition is far superior to factory ammunition both in accuracy and satisfaction stakes.

 

Then you need to work out how many rounds you are realistically going to make so you can work out what kit you are going to need and how much you are going to spend. You could start off from as little as £25 for a Lee classic loader which I use or spend hundreds on the latest press.

Edited by Livefast123
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Rolling your own takes many guises, it sounds like your a volume club shooter? consider how many and how often speed might be the big decider for you. I supose the vast previous stocks of .303 ammo has reduced over the years? cheap .223 is still quite easy to obtain at low cast surely? I doubt you could load this cheaper

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I began when I bought my .223 with a full Lee kit. I then bought a lee reloading manual and watched some excellent videos on utube.

The process is simple use a deprimer/neck sizing die for your own fireformed cases and full length resize with lube for any you buy - keep 'lots' of cases seperate.

In blocks of 25 or 50, clean out the flash hole and ream out the primer pocket. Check the overall case length matches the length given in the reloading manual and then start to reload the prepared cases. Add the primer (lee die), add powder from a powder thrower or check each load on a scale down to .1 grains. Then add your bullet to match the powder charge (given together in the manual) and crimp if you wish - I dont just make sure the neck is tight when resizing - done.

Do keep records as it helps later and stick to batches of cases who's history you write on a bit of paper enclosed in the bag with the cases.

I find the process relaxing and very satisfying - the loads are better manufactured than 'bought ' loads as the care you take is reflected in the details of the load which are consistently and very reliably reproduced. Watch out for double charges so be methodical.

Planty fo experienced guys on here if you need any help.

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