clanchief Posted October 30, 2003 Report Share Posted October 30, 2003 Well, like any other guy with a firm footing in airguns and shotguns who cant help tinkering I decided that I could revive my stock on the Semi auto I got in June,the gun a Beretta urika was only 2 months old but had a few sctatches on the lacquer.I did a good job oiling the stock on my Rapid 7 fac so was well confident I would do the same on this rifle.after a few weeks askin mates I eventually got a deep 13mm socket to take the butt section off and so the tale begins.Out I went to the garage with bothe the forend and the butt section and laid into them with the old trusty nitromors,I waited and waited and then waited some more,no bubbling or nothing,hard stuff on this baby I though,maybe a 2 part epoxy type coating,well I got the scrapers into it and the stuff I will call laquer for the present is thicker than the paint on the Forth bridge,eventually I got it off after using repeated attempts, and sanded it up with wet and dry paper and then steel wool wetting with warm water in between to raise the grain and sand smooth all over time after time.The laquer in the chequering was removed using a stiff wire brush in my fingertips that comes in the Dremmel multi box,do not use a dremmel with it in just your fingers is enough.I am now into my third day and third coat of oiling and then palm rubbing,jesus my arm and hands are nackered.Now I wonder how many coats this will need,usually a coat a day for a month is enough then one a month for a year then once a year after that.I know it will be worth it in the end but I can see why a gunsmith would take £250 from a layman to do the same work,I would not reccomend doing this unless you have woorked with wood a lot and have a lot of patience.I worked as a timber merchant for most my life so I know how hard it would be after the initial coating was removed so I was not put off,the gun will look fantastic once it is done but if you give it a go for yourself you will have a hell of a job getting the original coating off,it is the tuffest stuff I have seen in a long while. clanchief Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cranfield Posted October 30, 2003 Report Share Posted October 30, 2003 Did you take any "before and after" photographs, to show us ? I wish I had your patience and ability. My Beretta Silver Pigen has a few honourable "war wounds" and could do with a face lift. I think oiled wood is more resiliant to bumps and scratches. A job I will save for my old age. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ernyha Posted October 30, 2003 Report Share Posted October 30, 2003 A job I will save for my old age. We look forward to seeing the finished job before Christmas then Cranfield. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tiercel Posted October 30, 2003 Report Share Posted October 30, 2003 Clanchief what oil did you use to oil the stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cranfield Posted October 30, 2003 Report Share Posted October 30, 2003 ernyha, after I posted that , I thought "Oooops". The old brain ain,t as fast as it use to be , too many years wearing cammo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzzer Posted October 30, 2003 Report Share Posted October 30, 2003 when I done my Browning auto, I used Napier London gun stock finish.......it really brings out the grain in the wood!.......All I do now is give it a wipe over with linseed oil now and again......looks a treat ! All the best Buzz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tiercel Posted October 30, 2003 Report Share Posted October 30, 2003 buzz do you use boiled linseed There are a number of oils that will do the job danish oil, tung oil and teak oil they all bring out the grain, and weatherproof the stock to a certain extent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clanchief Posted October 30, 2003 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2003 The oil I use lately is by Trade Secret called Rapid Oil,it cost about a fiver a couple of years ago,I got it from a shop called The Gun Room in Ivybridge in Cornwall when I was down visitiing the wifes folks,I bought this and a couple of other things,it made us laugh when the shop owner said we could bring anything back that didn't suit,I said not effin likely I am doing another 550 miles in 8 1/2 hours ya daft eejit. But when I was down I did pick up a few pigeon flappers for about £4.00 from Trago Mills and a large supply of 5 1/2" targets that fit my trap that my sister in Sweden sent me,I can't find these card targets anywhere up here near Loch Lomond,the nearest gun shop is 25 miles. clanchief Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil Posted October 30, 2003 Report Share Posted October 30, 2003 i've just finished my Perazzi fore end using one of the ccl kits,its looking very nice,i'll post a pic when i get the chance.Clanchief,next time i go to trago mills i'll keep my eyes open for those targets,it may save you a 550 miles worth of petrol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hammergun Posted October 30, 2003 Report Share Posted October 30, 2003 Stock oil is a blend of boiled linseed oil and tung oil, but I cant remember the proportions. I have been using 50/50. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clanchief Posted October 31, 2003 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2003 As Hammergun says it is a blend of these and a light mineral oil also some turps or terrabine and a little beeswax for colour,the beeswax is the hard coating that will eventually buld up and the spirit base is to dissolve it into the oil so that it can be carried deep into the grain building up a hard sealing layer,terrabine is used by painters to speed up the drying process of paint.if you make a james hunt of things then some methylated spirits will remove some of the coating if it has went overly tacky before you rub it in by hand. clan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil Posted October 31, 2003 Report Share Posted October 31, 2003 Clanchief, where do you get terrabine,i cant seem to find any in the obvious shops? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hammergun Posted October 31, 2003 Report Share Posted October 31, 2003 My old gun book does not mention beeswax as part of the oil mix. Beeswax has a tendency to oxidise and go sticky (and acidic), so I would not be tempted to incorporate it into the stock oil. If you really want to use a wax, then I would suggest that a little carnauba wax would be more suitable. In my experience, waxes are best left to after the oiling has been finished. If you want to thin the oil, then pure turpentine, and not turpentine substitute must be used. Alcohol would also be suitable. My book says the colour is given by adding oil of alkanet to the stock oil, which gives the reddy-brown effect. The finish is built up by the oils curing and gradually laying on top of each other. I would be reluctant to add driers to it to rush the job along. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clanchief Posted November 2, 2003 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2003 Yes Hammergun, stock oil is made up of the things you mention,it is the Rapid oil from Trade Secret that is slightly different letting the novice do it a little quicker in around a week, I have nearly finished coating with this bottle of oil and will move on to other oil next week as there is a good build up already,on this stock the wood where the hand goes and the bottom of the pistol grip want a few more coats on there own as they have not come up as good as the larger flat areas,and also the end grain on the forestock is not sealing the pours up so quick either but this is expexted.I don't know where you get terrabine if that is the correct spelling,my mate is a painter and he uses it.I suppose he gets it from a trade place I dont use it only mentioned that you can,I can heve a hard enough time getting genuine turpentine.The oil I will be using next is made by Rentokil and has Teak Oil on the can,I have had this oil for years and years and although it works well I don't really know what it is made up of as it says it has a mix in it, I got this oil to oil a box I made for my Airgun when I was 17 that was nearly 20 years ago,I worked as a Timber Merchant up to 6 year ago when I joined the Prison service,and in those early days you could get all the wood you want cheaper than pine as we Imported wood from all the countries you could mention,we had a huge stock of teak that we would sometimes miss count at stocktaking if you get my drift,so my teak box has been through some changes over the years,it is now the length to take a broken down shotgun.It is nothing fancy just eggbox foam on the inside and nice looking grain on the outside and a 15yr old Lanber sporter inside that I got when I traded in my Beretta A 301 when the ban was looming. clanchief :blink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil Posted November 2, 2003 Report Share Posted November 2, 2003 The oil I will be using next is made by Rentokil Atleast you wont get any woodworm Clanchief :blink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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