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What to do with empty cartridges? How about fridge magnets.


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I need to refine the technique a bit but getting there. I could probably knock out a pair in about 15 minutes including some polishing.

 

Cut the hull down to the brass then heat/melt the excess with blow torch. Quick clear out and polish inside before wiping a bit of flux around. Then melt some solder 2/3 of the way up. Heat cufflink slightly, then reheat solder and join the two...preferably base plate submerged.

 

I could have just araldited it in but I quite like the weight of this. My initial idea was to melt the actual lead from the shot in but couldn't be *****.

 

Also, I'm in IT and have luscious soft hands. So, I'm sure people out there know of a better method (real men, that get dirty for a living)...please do tell :)

Edited by huffhuff
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28 may work. .550" compared to .410" - not much difference.

 

The Holland and Holland shooting ground is around the corner from me - perhaps I can snag some of their branded shell casings for projects like this. They do not seem to do a .410, but they do a 28g.

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I need to refine the technique a bit but getting there. I could probably knock out a pair in about 15 minutes including some polishing.

 

Cut the hull down to the brass then heat/melt the excess with blow torch. Quick clear out and polish inside before wiping a bit of flux around. Then melt some solder 2/3 of the way up. Heat cufflink slightly, then reheat solder and join the two...preferably base plate submerged.

 

I could have just araldited it in but I quite like the weight of this. My initial idea was to melt the actual lead from the shot in but couldn't be *****.

 

Also, I'm in IT and have luscious soft hands. So, I'm sure people out there know of a better method (real men, that get dirty for a living)...please do tell :)

Huff Huff

 

If your wanting the plastic OUT of the brass! I use a gas soldering iron with a small blow lamp head. I heat the brass for about 15-20 seconds then use a set of pipe grips to pull the brass from the hull. You get a nice clean base.

 

I started with a Candle heating the brasses! Trouble is they sooted up and had to be polished. The small torch means efficient heating and no cleaning needed.

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Buy some and see :) I suspect something similar to what you are doing. He has obviously got some Brasso out and polished them up nice, or possibly even put them into a tumbler to polish them as used by jewellers. They need a bit of weight as you said, though I would have thought that solder may oxidise and mark your clothes over time. Perhaps he uses solder then something to cover it up on top of that - perhaps epoxy. I wonder also if he has not given them a laquer spray to keep them shiny and preventing oxidation of the brass.

 

Those tumblers work stonkingly well - check out this video:

 

http://videos.midwayusa.com/index.php/show/cleaning_10_gauge_brass_shotgun_shells?id=1_2gp0jh1t

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Huff Huff

 

If your wanting the plastic OUT of the brass! I use a gas soldering iron with a small blow lamp head. I heat the brass for about 15-20 seconds then use a set of pipe grips to pull the brass from the hull. You get a nice clean base.

 

I started with a Candle heating the brasses! Trouble is they sooted up and had to be polished. The small torch means efficient heating and no cleaning needed.

 

Thanks for that Lord Geordie.

 

I've just been in the shed and dug out my old pencil blowtorch - a bit more delicate and precise than the full size one i've been using. These particular .410 cases have quite a bit of wadding in the base that needs burning out. I tried the heating and pulling but didn't quite work - I will give it another go though.

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Buy some and see :) I suspect something similar to what you are doing. He has obviously got some Brasso out and polished them up nice, or possibly even put them into a tumbler to polish them as used by jewellers. They need a bit of weight as you said, though I would have thought that solder may oxidise and mark your clothes over time. Perhaps he uses solder then something to cover it up on top of that - perhaps epoxy. I wonder also if he has not given them a laquer spray to keep them shiny and preventing oxidation of the brass.

 

Those tumblers work stonkingly well - check out this video:

 

http://videos.midwayusa.com/index.php/show/cleaning_10_gauge_brass_shotgun_shells?id=1_2gp0jh1t

 

Wow, that is impressively shiny. But I have had a think, and I quite like the rough, almost steampunk effect. The highly polished ones are nice (and probably more popular) but I like the rustic, used look.

 

I was also worried about the oxidisation, so will look at some kind of enamel/acrylic type cap. However, it will need to be something that can be heated and poured on top.

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I agree with you on the rustic/steampunk look. Now that you mention enamel - perhaps something like nail-polish would work, or enamel paint used in model making (probably cheaper) - as long as it pours and dries with a nice smooth surface.

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This has got me thinking :) ... Ones got earplugs in the other about 40 22 pellets.

 

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I use these as match storage containers for the Trangia when I'm in the mountains or in the canoe. I also store woodcock pin feathers, dremel multiool attachments and airgun pellets in them. A small fishing kit with hooks and line caould be stored in (or around) them.

 

Useful wee brutes.

Edited by Big Al
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Do you need to flange the lid to make it stay on?

No. Trim off the crimp with a stanley knife and smooth off the cut edge on the plastic top. The brass will slide on for a snug fit. The top is water resistant rather than waterproof. It does float for long enough to fish it out of the water and keep the matches dry. Ive been there.

 

Three inch cartridges give a bigger container (obviously) or you can trim the plastic so that there is little or no plastic showing.

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