rocksaplenty Posted May 21, 2013 Report Share Posted May 21, 2013 What is the best way to repair a lead gulley that is leaking? Is it worth creating a pitch to the gully so that the water flows - at the moment it is flat (water pools in it; it rests on a stone wall that is uneven - causing the lead to be uneven). Or, should i just go for a lead replacment? The current lead has cracked (about 40 years old). Image attached. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unapalomablanca Posted May 21, 2013 Report Share Posted May 21, 2013 What is the best way to repair a lead gulley that is leaking? Is it worth creating a pitch to the gully so that the water flows - at the moment it is flat (water pools in it; it rests on a stone wall that is uneven - causing the lead to be uneven). Or, should i just go for a lead replacment? The current lead has cracked (about 40 years old). Image attached. you could try a home made repair with roof seal, or get the boys in and strip it out and lay a new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazzala Posted May 21, 2013 Report Share Posted May 21, 2013 You could do a DIY job with a special waterproof paint , can't remember it's name but you can get it in most builders merchants ,It's a paint with glassfibre in it and when it goes off it dries like a fibreglass shell , or you could get a local flat roof firm to felt it with a 3 layer polyester based felt , if done right it should last for donkeys years Good luck Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bucksshooter Posted May 21, 2013 Report Share Posted May 21, 2013 Your better off taking the hit and getting it replaced if its began to crack its had its life, you cant take the risk with a roof especially with a valley that is taking a large amount of water Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THE AD Posted May 21, 2013 Report Share Posted May 21, 2013 My house is like this. When i first moved in it leaked in,when i had a look it also had pools of water. I took the first two rows of tiles off stripped the lead and created a slight fall with ply wood and tapered timbers. Before i put the lead back i put a full length of breathable roofing felt down then if ever the lead split again it had the protection of the felt. Touch wood no problems since Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevorevans Posted May 21, 2013 Report Share Posted May 21, 2013 As said you could cover the splits with scrim tape or even flash band and coat with a fibreglass paint (Acrypol or similar) but this would only ever be a temporary repair. Much better to get it done properly if funds allow before winter sets in either by renewing the lead or replacing it with felt , three layers of torch on should see it last for years as would new lead if fitted correctly, remember lead expands and contracts in the heat/cold and if laid in long lengths this will cause it to degrade and split much quicker than it's true lifespan. Also whilst the tiles are off you may aswell do the bottom stretch of under felt to the pitch on either side of the valley then you shouldn't have to worry about that area of roof for a long time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gimlet Posted May 21, 2013 Report Share Posted May 21, 2013 (edited) Relay it. It should have a pitch of between 1:60 AND 1:80. And it shouldn't be ponding. The under-surface must be smooth without slumps and humps. Lead expands and contracts with temperature. A lot. It needs to travel over the surface its laid on to do so. If that surface is uneven or if each piece of lead is too large and therefore too heavy it cannot contract again after expansion and so it stretches and splits. Its called creep. Patches can be soldered over splits but any repair is only temporary. If its creeping it will pull apart under adhesive patches or next to soldered ones. In the end its replacement I'm afraid. Edit: Apologies for duplicating you Trevorevans. Didn't spot yours coming through as I was typing. Edited May 21, 2013 by Gimlet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazsl Posted May 22, 2013 Report Share Posted May 22, 2013 Why not replace them with GRP valleys end of problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lincs1963 Posted May 22, 2013 Report Share Posted May 22, 2013 Why not replace them with GRP valleys end of problem A lot of roofers have stopped using these as they tend to crack if not supported properly and the they have had problems with the pointing falling out due to the amount of expansion and contraction movement. Most have now gone back onto lead. Bit more expensive but only need to do once. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imperfection Posted May 22, 2013 Report Share Posted May 22, 2013 Relay it. It should have a pitch of between 1:60 AND 1:80. And it shouldn't be ponding. The under-surface must be smooth without slumps and humps. Lead expands and contracts with temperature. A lot. It needs to travel over the surface its laid on to do so. If that surface is uneven or if each piece of lead is too large and therefore too heavy it cannot contract again after expansion and so it stretches and splits. Its called creep. Patches can be soldered over splits but any repair is only temporary. If its creeping it will pull apart under adhesive patches or next to soldered ones. In the end its replacement I'm afraid. Edit: Apologies for duplicating you Trevorevans. Didn't spot yours coming through as I was typing. Top advice. I was a roofer and always enjoyed the lead work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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