HW80 Inaccuracy update

[hedd-wyn]

I took the gun apart tonight and checked every bit of it.

 

Everything is in good nick considering the age of the gun.

 

However I take it that the piston seal will need replacing? and could this be the cause of the inaccuracy?

 

I also noticed that there was some scoring in the cylinder, will this need polishing as well?

 

 

Thanks guys

 

 

 

[bigman]

That piston washer is rubber ducked mate by the looks of it see serious dieseling ,

Don't polish out the piston chamber too much as a little bit of cross hatching will help hold the lube ,

Give the piston a polish up thou how's the spring guide Look and is t a good fit inside the spring?

[hedd-wyn]

That piston washer is rubber ducked mate by the looks of it see serious dieseling ,

Don't polish out the piston chamber too much as a little bit of cross hatching will help hold the lube ,

Give the piston a polish up thou how's the spring guide Look and is t a good fit inside the spring?

Everything else is in good nick. The spring and guide fit nicely and ive given it a good polish so looks like new.

I thought the seal had seen better days haha.

[-Mongrel-]

I'd hazard a guess that it would give you a different pressure pretty much every shot, so I can see how that would lead to inaccuracy.

[NIGHT SEARCHER]

That Cylinder looks like it`s been honed like when you re-bore and hone a engine block.

 

Polishing the piston and cylinder will make it shoot smoother.

 

I find it very odd that someone has had it in bits to take an ox-spring out of it.

And put it back together after horning it and a new spring with a totally ****** piston seal.

 

Piston seals are on ebay at £12.60 or go to www.gunspares.co.uk

For an exploded view of an HW 80 and parts. Piston seal £10.74.

[hedd-wyn]

That Cylinder looks like it`s been honed like when you re-bore and hone a engine block.

 

Polishing the piston and cylinder will make it shoot smoother.

 

I find it very odd that someone has had it in bits to take an ox-spring out of it.

And put it back together after horning it and a new spring with a totally ****** piston seal.

 

Piston seals are on ebay at £12.60 or go to www.gunspares.co.uk

For an exploded view of an HW 80 and parts. Piston seal £10.74.

 

 

Cheers NS

[stoogey]

whilste your stripping down get a new spring in it too.. dont worry about the scoring there, half is machine marks tuther is ware from the piston a polish up will help though, i used to use lighter fluid as a degreeser, then wd40 or 3 in 1 to wipe it out then just old plain harder cotton shirts to wipe the lot out till clean with no 'flamables' residue in there.(end of the day if you dont care a good washing liquif wash..but the water usualy brings rust if your not thourough). after some nice grade grease, a touch of lighter fluid in, only a touch mind to thin and smoothen the greese and get some some on your hands and just lightly rub it up the piston, inside the guns a bit harder but a cloth and broom handle section can get a very light coat on the metal there.

 

have a good look inside too, use a torch to see if the port hole area is still coated with black gunk..

 

options for the spring end are those dacron/nylo spring guides etc... as you've spent three hours cleaning lol may a swell do a full barrel clean too while your at it, or at least rig up a pull through and do several lots...but you'll have to bed the barrel in again.

 

if you've too mutch grease mix smear on the piston or inside you'll know about..deisiling lol. strip n wipe it out if its more than two or three shots. i dunno what the latest cap seals are today they used to be a white colour, dacron or some such... a tiny lube on that too, greasy hands are plenty as a gauge to how much, like wiped your hands clean on a cloth type thing. its should give you a sound when it goes in..slwwuuuuuuuuuuuuuooop, proper hydrolicy noise lol.

 

nar then..the tuning? fffffffffffffffff have fun hahaha take it apart ageen..change the 'tune washers' lol.

 

i wouldnt mess about with the trigger assembly as in dont dismember, but check inside to see if its gunked up, you can flush it through with degreaser or lighter fluid etc but its a pain of many many times, then spray grease of just oil it.(i used to just small driver grease in there..) finaly..check your hands for very fie 'paper cuts' from the dovetails and the barel to piston lever hole lol..ooooooooo they ting when sweat n oil and greese get in there, if your a betting man, simply put lighter fluid on a cloth and clean of the residue from your hands, you'll find um lolol!!.. its bin years but i can still see n feel it lol.

 

greasing the spring, some say the very lightest of smear, hmmm seemed useles when i tried it, again narmal greeze will work, the whiter/tellow axil grease etc, a lot say moterbike chain greese becuase it sticks better.. what ever you use try and keep it even, the evener it is the less time to settle or the less variasions in shot to shot. a rag..put a blob on the rag and dab on all round till theres plenty on but looks all the same all aroud.

for all the hype about that, i had one 80 i couldnt get the tail cap off for weeks, i literally thought ok..as i got to wait lets see how much grease before it kills the accuracy and loaded it in through the piston slide slot, then compressed a few times untill it oozed out, wiped..compresed and removed the exsess. it was very smooth and very quiet indeed..but lost some power lol.

Edited June 21, 2013 by stoogey

[hedd-wyn]

whilste your stripping down get a new spring in it too.. dont worry about the scoring there, half is machine marks tuther is ware from the piston a polish up will help though, i used to use lighter fluid as a degreeser, then wd40 or 3 in 1 to wipe it out then just old plain harder cotton shirts to wipe the lot out till clean with no 'flamables' residue in there.(end of the day if you dont care a good washing liquif wash..but the water usualy brings rust if your not thourough). after some nice grade grease, a touch of lighter fluid in, only a touch mind to thin and smoothen the greese and get some some on your hands and just lightly rub it up the piston, inside the guns a bit harder but a cloth and broom handle section can get a very light coat on the metal there.

 

have a good look inside too, use a torch to see if the port hole area is still coated with black gunk..

 

options for the spring end are those dacron/nylo spring guides etc... as you've spent three hours cleaning lol may a swell do a full barrel clean too while your at it, or at least rig up a pull through and do several lots...but you'll have to bed the barrel in again.

 

if you've too mutch grease mix smear on the piston or inside you'll know about..deisiling lol. strip n wipe it out if its more than two or three shots. i dunno what the latest cap seals are today they used to be a white colour, dacron or some such... a tiny lube on that too, greasy hands are plenty as a gauge to how much, like wiped your hands clean on a cloth type thing. its should give you a sound when it goes in..slwwuuuuuuuuuuuuuooop, proper hydrolicy noise lol.

 

nar then..the tuning? fffffffffffffffff have fun hahaha take it apart ageen..change the 'tune washers' lol.

 

i wouldnt mess about with the trigger assembly as in dont dismember, but check inside to see if its gunked up, you can flush it through with degreaser or lighter fluid etc but its a pain of many many times, then spray grease of just oil it.(i used to just small driver grease in there..) finaly..check your hands for very fie 'paper cuts' from the dovetails and the barel to piston lever hole lol..ooooooooo they ting when sweat n oil and greese get in there, if your a betting man, simply put lighter fluid on a cloth and clean of the residue from your hands, you'll find um lolol!!.. its bin years but i can still see n feel it lol.

 

greasing the spring, some say the very lightest of smear, hmmm seemed useles when i tried it, again narmal greeze will work, the whiter/tellow axil grease etc, a lot say moterbike chain greese becuase it sticks better.. what ever you use try and keep it even, the evener it is the less time to settle or the less variasions in shot to shot. a rag..put a blob on the rag and dab on all round till theres plenty on but looks all the same all aroud.

for all the hype about that, i had one 80 i couldnt get the tail cap off for weeks, i literally thought ok..as i got to wait lets see how much grease before it kills the accuracy and loaded it in through the piston slide slot, then compressed a few times untill it oozed out, wiped..compresed and removed the exsess. it was very smooth and very quiet indeed..but lost some power lol.

Hahaha you, are, a legend

 

Top advice though, cheers pal.

[stoogey]

no problem, let us know if you get a spring guide flight lmao!!! that stings the most lol..

 

a thick cloth over the end cap and grip like **** around the rest and the cloth does help a bit...thats if you dont know what springs in it of course. last couple threads, the sweat starts..half a turn half a tueen total concentrasion on keeping it all square n tight then gunnnnkkkk!!! suprise!!! its a big one hahaha

 

the little ones arnt 'too bad' like hahaha

 

i cant do it any more unless i know whats in it .....****ts me right up lol.

Edited June 21, 2013 by stoogey

[NIGHT SEARCHER]

Just a thought before you start spending money (ie) seal £12 new spring £20 plus other bits.

 

A stage 1 tune at Sandwell field sports is £65 and they specialize in HW guns.

 

What you get for a stage 1 tune is a new highly polished piston. A highly polished Cylinder.

New top hat and spring guide. A new spring. And piston seal.

The gun will be sent back to you shooting close to 12 ftlb. It will be easier to cock.

And it will shoot silky smooth with a lot less recoil making the gun a lot more accurate.

 

A mate had a new HW97KT and sent it to SFS for a stage 1 tune.

I had shot the gun before the tune and after and i was very impressed with how smooth it shoots now.

[hedd-wyn]

Thanks

 

The spring looks fine to be honest, but if I were to change the spring what should I go for? HW80 standard?

[Paul T]

Thanks

 

The spring looks fine to be honest, but if I were to change the spring what should I go for? HW80 standard?

I went for a standard off the bay - cost me £12 with the guide. Try another make at your risk, the HW80 is very easy to push over the limit on power .

[NIGHT SEARCHER]

Have a look at www.airgunpellet.co.uk Very good prices on pellets.

And they do three makes of springs £12 & £13 plus some original springs.

They do a piston weight and seal for £5 but that could take your gun over 12 ftlb.

They even do a piston weight and spring to take your gun to FAC if you wanted to go down that road.

It would take your gun to 20 ftlb plus. But it would kick like a mule and shake stock screws loose.

Even if you go for a standard spring and a bit of polishing it could still be well over 12 ftlb.

Then you have to take it apart and keep cutting the spring down a bit till you get it under 12 ftlb.

It`s a pain in the **** but it`s the only way. Thats why I mentioned Sandwell field sports.

You get all new internals and they have to do all the messing to get the gun under 12 ftlb.

If you need to buy a chrono has well £45 Sandwells stage 1 tune at £65 is a bargain.

[guineapig]

iam told that the breech bolt on hw80 should not be too tight it should fall under its own weight when cocked hope this helps atb tony

[Sx3 clay breaker]

+1 for Sandwell fields port tune they done my smk xs 20 before I had it and its almost as smooth and quiet as a hw

[fabarm gamma boy]

Very interesting thread! Well done folks