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do I epoxy bed it or wait?


fieldwanderer
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In theory at least, I should have my barrelled action and new laminate stock within a few days. The plan was to bed the stock before finishing it so I didn't need to worry as much about minor marks or spillages etc.

 

However, I can't help but wonder if I'd be better off finishing the stock and seeing how it shoots before I start messing it about :/ Do all rifles benefit from bedding (assuming it's done right) or are some just as good without? What would you do?

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I've only ever done it in a boyds stock on my rimfire but I went about 3mm deep to allow for any high parts in the material I'd removed, I did it with a little dremel type tool do it wasn't pretty but it worked. The I letting was already fairly slack which was why I decided to do it so I guess is ranged from 3-4mm in places. You want it fairly deep so you don't get any thin bits or high points that make contact with your action. Don't forget to tape your barrel to keep an even gap for floating the barrel, I nearly did.

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Thanks Gary, sadly it'll be a while yet though;

 

I now have a barrelled action, moderator, scope and rings, devcon, shoe polish, tape and the old stock (which hasn't a hope in hell of fitting) but no new stock, still waiting on the postman :(

 

I doubt I'll ever build another rifle; this has dragged on since June and it's so frustrating its unreal!!

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Hi Folks, I'm also trying to bed a Remington 700 in .223. I know it has to be epoxy resined but I read in this thread someone used Devcon steel putty. What is it? where do you get it and how do you use it?

 

Epoxy - with steel dust in it. I got mine from cromwell tools; https://www.cromwell.co.uk/DEV7112013D

 

 

Thanks for the explanation fister, I'm not sure I'd've understood if I hadn't already done some reading up but I do appreciate you taking the time to try :good:

 

It's a sako action going into a laminate stock, I think what I need to do is mill the flat on the inlet (that the action sits on) down so it's the same but 4-5mm further down and make the sides 3-4mm further out (depending on there being enough "wood" to remove) all except the back of the tang and a bit over the recoil lug etc. Sound right so far? obviously going 1/2" or so past the recoil lug to support the first little bit of barrel.

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I've got a set of pillars if you need any let me know and I'll dig them out for you.

 

Gary

Thanks mate, I may well take you up on that!

 

Stock's still not arrived but I did some reading up and it looks like not much fun on a 75; a guy had done a blog all about it and after all the hard work it didn't shoot any differently!

 

So, I've decided; as long as the inlet in the new stock looks as good as I expect it to, I'll try it without bedding it and see how it goes. If there's room for improvement then so be it, it's the most logical plan I can come up with :s

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Thanks mate, I may well take you up on that!

Stock's still not arrived but I did some reading up and it looks like not much fun on a 75; a guy had done a blog all about it and after all the hard work it didn't shoot any differently!

So, I've decided; as long as the inlet in the new stock looks as good as I expect it to, I'll try it without bedding it and see how it goes. If there's room for improvement then so be it, it's the most logical plan I can come up with :s

Hopefully you won't need them but there here if you do mate. You'll have to get some pictures up when it's ready.

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That's the one I was on about Gary, to my mind he didn't do as bad a job as he made out but I could see his point (certainly not the easiest rifle to do), he posts photos at the end of his groups before and after and the result being it wasn't worth doing, hence the decision to see how mine goes first.

Edited by fieldwanderer
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The 75 is a pain to "pillar bed" really well (the lug gets in the way) std shop bough pillars are practically useless, you need to make them, in a good laminate I shouldn't bother unless its for competitive use. 2mm thick bedding jobs are next to useless, the fit will be better but the compound will likely crack or lift and offers no great stability anyway. Myself and other use the term "skim bedding" but when I say that I do still generally take the recoil lug recess back and give the bedding area a good deep "roughing up" so the bedding has say 1/8"

 

Why not just fit the stock and shoot it initially? for one thing I personally like to track the changes in a gun as each modification is made. A rifle smith is forced by time constraints so they will generally do it all in one go on a belt and braces approach. Heck screw the stock on get yourself out and put a few rounds through it (you might be surprised) what have you got to loose besides a few rounds and a few days? Its far more satisfying to know for sure that the bedding job (if and when done) made a difference and how much.

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That's pretty much the conclusion I'd came to kent. Like I said though, I'll see how everything looks when it gets here; I've worked in places with CNC machines and the products they churn out can be truly amazing but wood, albeit laminate, isn't the most predictable of materials and I may feel its "rough" enough to need doing straight away.

 

Now then, the biggest issue is that front pillar - I've already made a pair of them and milled a notch for the recoil lug but - laminate's pretty tough stuff, nearer plastic than wood. IMHO, as long as the bedding were fairly thick - the pillars aren't really necessary, the bottom metal spreads the load too. Any opinions?

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That's pretty much the conclusion I'd came to kent. Like I said though, I'll see how everything looks when it gets here; I've worked in places with CNC machines and the products they churn out can be truly amazing but wood, albeit laminate, isn't the most predictable of materials and I may feel its "rough" enough to need doing straight away.

 

Now then, the biggest issue is that front pillar - I've already made a pair of them and milled a notch for the recoil lug but - laminate's pretty tough stuff, nearer plastic than wood. IMHO, as long as the bedding were fairly thick - the pillars aren't really necessary, the bottom metal spreads the load too. Any opinions?

 

Yep, if its a hunting rifle it will never need pillars with Laminate. If splitting the line of a target matters then fit pillars. My own 75 sits in a Mc Millan and it has for near a decade with synthetic bedding only. I asked opinions of two of the countries top Smiths who both said don't bother. The first three rounds I fired from this gun post bedding produced a 3 shot screamer at 100 yds.

 

If it were natural Walnut etc I should fit pillars I might add as natural grained wood moves and compresses more or less with climate

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