Paul223 Posted October 8, 2013 Report Share Posted October 8, 2013 A friend has kindly offered me a piece / blank of walnut out of an old tree that has dropped on his land, I'd like to have a stock made for my no4 out of it, so does anyone have some advice on where, what or how to go about choosing where to cut? Am I right in thinking I need straight grain (for strength around the action end) going into the root to get the beautiful burl effect, if so how can I go about choosing this when looking at the remains of a tree and it's root? Anything else i need to be aware of, splits yes anything else? All advice greatly appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnphilip Posted October 8, 2013 Report Share Posted October 8, 2013 Cut it a lot bigger than you need, seal the ends to help it from splitting. Even just some paint will do dont bring it in the house it will split straight away. If you have a shed keep it in there for about a year. I am sure others will give you more advice as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lincs1963 Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 Seal the ends well with wax or oil based paint. Leave to season somewhere undercover but with good airflow. As a rule of thumb drying takes 1 year per inch of thickness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hector Vector Posted October 10, 2013 Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 Don' rush things - you need to allow a lot time for seasoning. I've got two blanks that were cut in 1992 that are now just about ready to use... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoot and be safe Posted October 10, 2013 Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 Don' rush things - you need to allow a lot time for seasoning. I've got two blanks that were cut in 1992 that are now just about ready to use... just a quick one, what size are the blanks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malkiserow Posted October 10, 2013 Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 Most of the above is good advice. Try to make sure it is flat and weight on top with good airflow all round. Leave a good 4 inches each end to the blank size you want. Ideally do not cut a blank.... leave it as a cut board or plank. Turn the board once a year and put the weight back on top. Support/airflow/weight is best done with sticks under it and above but make sure they line up so your weights do not warp the board. Avoid sap wood check for mould growth - if it happens, brush off and give more air... so check a few times a year and more in the early days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aris Posted October 10, 2013 Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 Apparently there aren't very many UK gunstock makers who air-dry their wood any more. This one does - perhaps they might be kind and impart some of their wisdom with you if you ask nicely: http://ukgunstocks.com/about.htm Their website talks about a 9-year drying time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hector Vector Posted October 10, 2013 Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 just a quick one, what size are the blanks? 36 3/4" x 8" x 2 1/2" full length rifle blank 22" x 10" x 3" shotgun stock and splinter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul223 Posted October 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 Thanks for all the help so far, any advice on cutting it, would I be correct to assume once the base/root is out of the ground and clean the next step would be to cut in half, cutting in the direction the grain will run through ( up) the trunk to achieve the area of burl (root ish area) on the end of straight grain ( trunk) and then plank from there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malkiserow Posted October 10, 2013 Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 Apparently there aren't very many UK gunstock makers who air-dry their wood any more. This one does - perhaps they might be kind and impart some of their wisdom with you if you ask nicely: http://ukgunstocks.com/about.htm Their website talks about a 9-year drying time Mine is 10 year dried ----- more than actually but it does not need that long! Their prices are WOW - HOW HIGH !!!! makes mine look too cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aris Posted October 10, 2013 Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 Mine is 10 year dried ----- more than actually but it does not need that long! Their prices are WOW - HOW HIGH !!!! makes mine look too cheap. I suspect you need to have the right humidity levels for a long period of time which allows the inner moisture to wick out at the correct rate. A bit like drying salamis. Too dry and you get case hardening - the outside dries, and all the moisture remains inside. With wood I could see how this would cause cracks as the outside shrinks, and the moisture inside can't get out. Here is the process: http://ukgunstocks.com/process.htm Says 'minimum 9 years'. I suppose if you want the best quality stock for a best quality gun, that's what you have to do. I wonder who they make stocks for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malkiserow Posted October 10, 2013 Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 (edited) I suspect you need to have the right humidity levels for a long period of time which allows the inner moisture to wick out at the correct rate. A bit like drying salamis. Too dry and you get case hardening - the outside dries, and all the moisture remains inside. With wood I could see how this would cause cracks as the outside shrinks, and the moisture inside can't get out. Here is the process: http://ukgunstocks.com/process.htm Says 'minimum 9 years'. I suppose if you want the best quality stock for a best quality gun, that's what you have to do. I wonder who they make stocks for. Nope not 9 years - too fast you get shakes (cracking), warping, cupping and stress build up. Too slow you get mildew and slow return on your cash! You do need to get to your target MC and in any normal range you will achieve that in 3 or 4 years of air drying for your average blank for gunstock use. I use de-humidifiers for the final 6 months once below 12% depending on when you cut. Seasoning is an art but not 9 years worth. .. having said that it is like belt and braces.... you can be sure it is well "done" . Mine is 10 years + anyway because I had it tucked away and almost forgotten! Some woods are very hard to dry and need extra care but Walnut is straightforward. The price is mostly down to grain/colour...... Edited October 10, 2013 by malkiserow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malkiserow Posted October 10, 2013 Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 A friend has kindly offered me a piece / blank of walnut out of an old tree that has dropped on his land, I'd like to have a stock made for my no4 out of it, so does anyone have some advice on where, what or how to go about choosing where to cut? Am I right in thinking I need straight grain (for strength around the action end) going into the root to get the beautiful burl effect, if so how can I go about choosing this when looking at the remains of a tree and it's root? Anything else i need to be aware of, splits yes anything else? All advice greatly appreciated Paul - If there is not enough on this thread, feel free to PM me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul223 Posted October 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 Will do fella Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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