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20 bore cart


Dominicrobed
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Hi mate, I use a 20 bore for all my shooting, usually I have no trouble in finding the right ammo. However now im starting to use steel for wildfowling, im really struggling to get decent cartridges. The only shells I can get are either 5 or 4 steel, no bigger. And thats from 5 different store, and not little shops either. I hope you haveall the success of finding cartridges, however if it was me personally I'd stick to the 12 bore. You have a much greater choice of shell, so you can pick and choose what you like. Cheers hh

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Cheers I was thinking gamebore game and wetland , the problem with only taking the 12 bore is Iv got a swollen bone in my shoulder area giving me a lot of pain and a prolapsed disc in my neck ( slowly getting better )

We are doing a morning goose flight and I will use my maxus for that but then we will be doing a days pigeon shooting followed but the evening duck flight and that's to much to ask my shoulder/neck with only the 12 bore

I can hit pigeons all day long with the 20 bore and would like to use it also with the ducks.

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These perhaps.

 

http://www.eleyhawkltd.com/cartridge/20-gauge/bismuth/vip-bismuth

 

Hi
Later this month I'm going on a paid duck shoot and was wondering what 20 bore cartridge I could use if any ?
I'm taking my trusted maxus for the morning goose flight but would love to shoot ducks with my 20 bore.
Thank you for any advice

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And those of us with fixed choke 20 bores (mine is 1/2 and 3/4) can't really shoot steel, or at least it's really not recommended. Also, if you drop 2 shot sizes (which is what's usually recommended for steel, to maintain killing power in the shot), then if you shoot steel in a shotsize 3 or 4 through a 20 bore, you're going to have huge holes in the pattern.

 

And a lot of shoots are fibre wad only, so THAT rules out steel too.

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Actually steel patterns denser shot patterns than lead (for one thing it doesn't de-form) shorter strings and for equivalent weights more pellets per weight due to the lighter weight of steel. Forget the nugget about bigger shot, its only relevant to kinetic energy at range and can fall down at range due to pattern loss and also reduced penetration due to surface area of each pellet being greater so yes it needs extra energy to get deep enough in there. Ok if your flighting geese or shooting over tide in broad daylight it can be an advantage but why might you choose a 20 ga for that anyhow

 

Over a flight pond or flash during evening flight I will use fast 24-28 grm 12 ga loads in a no.4 any day, I have a friend who uses nothing but number 5 steel clay loads clay loads but he knows his killing range and sticks to it (he aint a bad shot either which certainly helps).

 

If I had a gun choked 1/2 and 3/4 I shouldn't hesitate to get it changed to half and half instead if it was preventing me shooting fowl with steel

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The only reason I'm not bothering with getting the choke changed is it's a very nice traditional S/S game 20 bore. For the occasional duck drive, I just use bismuth.

 

I'd agree though - if I was doing a lot of fowling with it, I'd almost certainly get it opened up - or get another gun !

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