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A Marlin 1894 or a Rossi Puma in .357 Magnum??


jam1e
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The one on UKV is sold. Although I've found 3 new ones for £500. The nearest is my local rfd, but I prefer the stainless, and it's a blued version. I'll probably go and have a mooch at it tomorrow though, when they're open, to get a feel for how they are.

As for reloading, I thought it may be straight from the powder thrower, with regular checks. A lot easier than loading my other centre fires for accuracy!!

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I just use a Lee handpress along with the carbide die set and a factory crimp. I 'upgraded' to a Lee perfect powder measure and it has made loading far quicker and more enjoyable. I just set it for roughly 5.1 grains of Titegroup and load away, checking about every 5 loads. The thru powder is also the expander.

 

I don't want to sound like i'm preaching but using small fast powder charges in large magnum cases requires loading disipline, I could fit 7 target charges into a .44 Mag case........that would be a bang

 

A 16 in stainless sounds gorgeous :-)

Edited by Livefast123
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I just use a Lee handpress along with the carbide die set and a factory crimp. I 'upgraded' to a Lee perfect powder measure and it has made loading far quicker and more enjoyable. I just set it for roughly 5.1 grains of Titegroup and load away, checking about every 5 loads. The thru powder is also the expander.

 

I don't want to sound like i'm preaching but using small fast powder charges in large magnum cases requires loading disipline, I could fit 7 target charges into a .44 Mag case........that would be a bang

 

A 16 in stainless sounds gorgeous :-)

I couldn't agree more! My rifle cases are usually close to the max load! Yet looking at reloading for a pistol cartridge on Youtube, there looks to be very little powder. I'll be sticking with whatever figures my latest edition Lee Reloading Manual tells me...

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Thanks both for the advice, as with all advice I'm given, I'll bear it in mind.

It sounds a little sad, but from day one of reloading I've used a little check list that I pour over after each step. One being that I have a small torch at hand to check I've not missed charging a case, and also checking they all look identical as possible, unless I'm making various powder loads. Granted, it sounds a little sad, but after having a club semi-auto pistol reload, blow up in my face and put me in hospital, way back in the day, I'm a bit warey!! :oops:

On a brighter note, I'm more than likely going to go with the Rossi Puma. Hopefully a stainless in 16". I just hope I'm making the right decision, and will get a good functioning rifle....

As I've stated, my local RFD has the rifle I'm after, at the right price, but it's "blued". But as this RFD is notoriously expensive, I'm wondering if the rifle in question has been sitting on the rack a while, hence the price being comparable with most other shops?

If by chance, it happens to be the "normal" price, I'll more than likely order the stainless from him.

As for the barrel length, there must be a reason they make several lengths. The only one I can think of, is case capacity, (no problem) and velocity. With that in mind, does anyone know if there's more or less to it than that? I like the idea of less hassle maneuvering the rifle in the cab, but not at the expense of accuracy or real world velocity. I appreciate I've broached this subject before in this thread, but could anyone give me some more detailed specifics?

EDIT - I hope I've not missed a "Biggy" here! Should I be concerned with barrel twist rate?? That's quite a big thing when considering, say a .223 Rem sporter/target rifle. How did I miss that point!? Do they manufacture these type of rifles with differing twist rates for various bands of bullet weight??

Cheers

Jamie

Edited by jam1e
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Don't worry about the twist.

Don't worry about the barrel length.

16" lever guns are generally referred to trapper models so you will have to run a trap line and start selling furs.

 

I shot over the years two trapper models in 30wcf and did just fine. I will get the photos next.

 

Keep the primed cases primer up. No need for a torch then, think about it ;-).

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Don't worry about the twist.

Don't worry about the barrel length.

16" lever guns are generally referred to trapper models so you will have to run a trap line and start selling furs.

 

I shot over the years two trapper models in 30wcf and did just fine. I will get the photos next.

 

Keep the primed cases primer up. No need for a torch then, think about it ;-).

I have to admit UD, your idea on orientation of the cases is better than my idea with the torch :good:

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Well I got my mitts on a nice new Rossi Puma in .357 Mag today. Albeit, in blue. They're so small! I initially thought it was a 16" barrel, but it was the 20". The wood looked good, was nicely finished and meets the metal work neatly, and close. I then got my hands on a stainless version, (albeit in .44 cal) and as soon as I saw it, I knew It had to be the stainless. Sooo nice! Unfortunately, the wait isn't so nice. Not a huge wait, but enough, at 4 to 6 weeks.... :unhappy: I could have walked away there and then with the blued version, but it should be worth the wait. :yes:

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First there was pump club......maybe now lever action club......cowboy club :lol:

Now that isn't a bad idea! I presume there has to be enough members on here who want it, for it to be added?

Thanks for the "Rossi-Rifleman" tip. :good:

Edited by jam1e
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The new Marlins (2014 and 2015 made) are free of the problems the guns had after Marlin was taken over by Remington. Or so I am led to believe. I am in the market for a .357/.38 special and this is what I found after doing a lot of reading. A new one is about £900 so I think this is where I am going to go. Second had ones (pre Remington) are also coming down in price now. The price was hight because the circa 2007 'Remlins' were ridden with problems, apparently

 

I am sorry to hijack this thread, but would someone on the know comment on the validity of what I wrote above? To put it simply, I too am interested in buying a .357/38sp lever action, and I am looking for the most reliable rifle I can get. Naturally I looked at Marlin, and did some search that revealed that the new ones are not having the problems the ones immidiately after the takeover had. Does anyone know whether this is true?

 

I guess I am worried that the rifle I will buy will not have a decent mechanical standing, especially in the action. I was told that Winchester 1894s were great, but you canot buy a new one anymore. A friend has a Rossi and he loves it, but he did comment on the fact that it is a bit 'rough on the edges'. Which brings me back to square 1. Any help will be greately appreciated!

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It was more to do with Marlin moving the plant just before Remington bought Marlin that caused some issues. Google it and you should find out what gun numbers to avoid.

 

People assume over here that Marlin are the best and like the fact they are easily scoped. It is kind of missing the point.

A lever gun should flow to the shoulder like a shot gun and be a natural shot off hand. Marlins are more like a conventional style of shooting but not a bolt action, chunky wood etc.

 

Part of the fun is enjoying the action, a 92 even rough around the edges Rossi will give you that over a Marlin, in my opinion I add.

 

I had a 336 for a couple of years but sold it and returned to a W94.

 

Loads of info and guidance on Paco Kelly leverguns. Com

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It was more to do with Marlin moving the plant just before Remington bought Marlin that caused some issues. Google it and you should find out what gun numbers to avoid.

 

People assume over here that Marlin are the best and like the fact they are easily scoped. It is kind of missing the point.

A lever gun should flow to the shoulder like a shot gun and be a natural shot off hand. Marlins are more like a conventional style of shooting but not a bolt action, chunky wood etc.

 

Part of the fun is enjoying the action, a 92 even rough around the edges Rossi will give you that over a Marlin, in my opinion I add.

 

I had a 336 for a couple of years but sold it and returned to a W94.

 

Loads of info and guidance on Paco Kelly leverguns. Com

Thanks for that. As a matter of fact, I have no intention on putting a scope on the rifle. It will be used with open sights, for sure. My main concern is reliability and a good mechanical standing, that is all. If people's experience is that a Rossi will be a reliable gun with a strong, decent action and mechanical parts (i.e is well built and decent quality) I have no reservations whatsoever on buying one and save a lot of money doing so! Which ones fit that bill the best? I am only asking as, whilst researching the Winchester 1894 AE for example (before I realised they are out of production) I found out that they seem not to like the 357 magnum rounds as they are a bit too powerful for the action. As I want to use the rifle both with .38 special and .357 magnum, I need the new gun (Rossi, Marlin or whatever) to cope well with them. I alse read somewhere that you have to be cycling them hard (i.e pull the lever fully and not half way etc) as it cycles best that way. any truth in these claims? Once again, I apologize for all these questions, and for hijacking the thread. Many thanks in anticipation!

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Thanks for that. As a matter of fact, I have no intention on putting a scope on the rifle. It will be used with open sights, for sure. My main concern is reliability and a good mechanical standing, that is all. If people's experience is that a Rossi will be a reliable gun with a strong, decent action and mechanical parts (i.e is well built and decent quality) I have no reservations whatsoever on buying one and save a lot of money doing so! Which ones fit that bill the best? I am only asking as, whilst researching the Winchester 1894 AE for example (before I realised they are out of production) I found out that they seem not to like the 357 magnum rounds as they are a bit too powerful for the action. As I want to use the rifle both with .38 special and .357 magnum, I need the new gun (Rossi, Marlin or whatever) to cope well with them. I alse read somewhere that you have to be cycling them hard (i.e pull the lever fully and not half way etc) as it cycles best that way. any truth in these claims? Once again, I apologize for all these questions, and for hijacking the thread. Many thanks in anticipation!

The 357 is not to powerful for the W94. The 357 is small for W94 physically so a small additional clip is needed to control a round in battery and facilitate magazine top up at the same time.

 

How about a uberti 73?

Yes, don't pussy foot the action on a levergun!

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