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Restoration of stock


baikiel boy
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Hi all ,

I'm about to start on restoring the stock on 12g Hushpower (single barrel -Pedreti ) the finish is laquer ? French polish ? There are a few dents and scratches in it .How do i use hot iron to raise dents,i think i could mix up some shellac flakes with meths but what about colour match? Any advice would be much appreciated.

Regards Baikiel boy :P:P

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BB

 

Im no restoration specialist, but I assume that you have rubbed the stock down to bare wood.

 

To raise the dents in the wood you will need a very hot iron and a cloth that has been soaked in clean water, and the wrung out, to leave the cloth quite damp.

 

Place the cloth over the damaged are, and apply the hot iron. It may take several attempts and may not work, it depends on the severity of the damage.

 

I would not french polish a stock. Either get some stock oil, follow the instructions and use some elbow grease, or apply a good quality polyeurethane varnish. I have once used Spinaker yaght varnish to good effect.

 

The above is quite a bit of work, and is only really worth it if the gun is special. Most people can spot that a stock has been refinished and often suspect the worst.

 

Keep us posted as to what you do.

 

webber

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Hi Webber,

Thanks for reply, I've not touched stock as yet .Trying to get some opinions before doing so . I did do an oil finish on an a.y.a. once did'nt turn out to bad . Hushpower shows some " chipping " in area's by the butt plate so ican see laquer or french coat is quite thick .I don't want to get to involved by going back to scratch,as you say not worth all that trouble,lets see if some one maybe has some expertise to pass on . It maybe of use to someone else

Best Regards baikiel boy :P

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Only have experience in oiled stocks.

 

My guess is that it is not all that old. Could be an acrylic lacquer -they are pretty durable.

 

I have a 9mm garden gun and the stock on that is an oil-based lacquer. Shellac stock polish is likely to have some linseed oil content in it for durability.

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Napier stock oil it is brilliant. I wish I knew what is in it?

 

Probably blend of boiled linseed oil, tung oil and oil of alkanet - That's what I use.

 

Wouldn't use polyeurathane varnish - tends to get affected by oils and cleaners.

 

French polish is too easily scratched and affected by the wet.

 

Hard acrylic or a traditional oil-based (i.e. not synthetic) yacht varnish would be better.

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Hi all ,

Thanks to everyone concerned for their input.Looks like the easy way out, leave as is , or "touch up". Maybe coloured lacquer , or coloured varnish .,it dosn't seem worthwhile to fetch down to bare wood etc. I'll see what i can find suitable in these

Best Regards Baikiel boy :P:P

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The stock on my Rapid is in need of being refinished, I want to have a go myself, could someone explain how to do it and what with? I like the sound of the Napier stuff, but what about sanding and applying the oil? and how many coats of oil etc?

Thanks.

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Assuming your stock is Walnut..........

 

Take your stock off the metalwork. Be careful not to take too much offf where the wood is flush with the metal or the metal will end up standing proud when you have finished.

 

I prefer aluminium oxide cloth to paper as it is more flexible and much easier to use on uneven surfaces without changing the features of the wood. You can tear it into strips or squares to get to those difficult places. It is worth spending the extra to get a good finish.

 

Start off with a fairly coarse grade cloth (120 - 180 grade) to remove the remains of the previous finish. Once you have taken the marks out and the last trace of lacquer has gone, use a finer grade (240) until the marks from the coarser grade have gone, then use a finer grade, then finer again (320). Wet the stock, allow to dry and rub down. Repeat this several times until the water will not raise the grain anymore. Finish off with medium-fine steel wool (00), then progress to fine(000). There should be no sanding marks left on the wood. If sanding marks remain, they will show up in the finish as they absorb the colour.

 

Apply a coat of grain sealer, rub down with fine wire wool, and repeat until the surface feels smooth.

 

Rub Oil of Alkanet into the stock, leave 12 hours and repeat as often as you want until the desired colour is obtained.

 

Now the careful part. Either using stock oil or a homemade blend, put a little on a patch and rub well into the stock. To begin with, it will soak quite a lot up. Wipe of any excess and leave to dry. before it is hard, buff well with a lint-free cloth (part of an old shirt will be OK). Some of the old-time gunmakers used to use the palm of their hand to get the smooth fiish. Apply more oil and repeat.

 

At this stage, it is important not to have any "wet" patches on the woodwork after applying the oil or the finish will go blotchy. Repeat the process until you are satisfied. After each buffing, you will begin to notice a difference. It will take many coats before it is finshed, and you must be patient. Finally, leave it a few weeks to harden. You can always put further coats on later if you need. If at any stage you find drips, these can be carefully removed with wire wool.

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Yes, as the others have said.

 

I used Danish oil as the final finish on a walnut stock,it looked great but never seemed to dry so i removed it and bought the Napier london Gunstock Kit,the finish is outstanding.

 

Every now and then i rub a small amount of boiled linseed oil over.

 

One point i learnt though is not to rub the finish oil in with a cloth,use your fingers,that way you dont get bits of dust off the cloth.

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