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The best shooting sticks


mick miller
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Hands down the best sticks I've made (or owned) thus far.

The studs I use for the base are half screw, half m6 thread (I don't know what they're called). Washers at the top are essential, they prevent premature wear and provide a rubbing surface for the poles. They should be curved to wrap around the poles to minimise the friction between the two surfaces. The webbing can be hand sewn, you'll want a thimble as you need to press quite hard to get the needle through and invariably it pops through, stabbing your finger/hand.

When you get the poles there is plastic in either end. Leave this plastic in, preserve as much as possible. The top of your poles will be the sharp end, just cut some of the point off to create a more rounded profile (this helps sliding the webbing on, if you have to cut the poles as they're too tall buy a different pole or make allowance in the strap seam for the blanking plug), the bottom cut flush and square and pilot drill to accept the stud screw thread. Use washers to sandwich the belt. If you're shorter you'll have to cut the poles down then cut the top and buy some blanking plugs to cap the end and make a soft surface for the webbing (or buy shorter poles!).

The belt for the hinged foot: Google 'Balata Flat Drive Belting'.

Mine have sat out in the garden, resting against a hedge or shed for three years and are still going strong. No excessive rust, no knackered bits. I don't cradle the rifle in the uprights, rather it sits in two webbing slings, the feet aren't screwed together so create a weak spot, they use traction engine belt to create a flexible, all weather hinge, the fittings that retain it also create a spike to maintain a solid hold on the ground and a great pivot point. The washers are shaped and blued to prevent corrosion, stainless fittings and nyloc nuts keep everything tight and rust free. 

Best of all, around £40 in materials.

 

- The hinged foot, uses traction belt to provide a flexible, long lasting hinge. Leave one stud long to create a pin for extra grip.

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- The washers were shaped around a bar, then treated with cold blue to prevent rust (small outer washer wasn't). Nuts are stainless nyloc.

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- Webbing from an old kitbag strap stitched to create two slip over cradles, any wide, tough webbing will do. This style means you can pan the rifle and the sticks are ambi. Front strap tall, around 5", rear short around 2 1/2". They slip over the poles but make sure they're a tight fit.

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Simple string and webbing loop means you can slide the webbing up/down to set the gap for whichever rifle you're using. This is a photo of the sticks, unsupported but with the peg pushed into the ground.

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Edited by mick miller
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Nice set up, but I hate having to fiddle with things and eventually went back to a single stick. I made up a double using those garden canes but had to wrap them with tape to stop them clinking and clanking.  A single nice hazel doesn't do that and you can kneel down with the grounded end behind your right heel and pull the stick onto the left knee which makes a very stable support but still flexible enough to follow a deer if it moves and very easy and quick to drop into.

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2 hours ago, mick miller said:

 I'm insulted that you refer to them as 'garden canes'. These, dear sir, are a work of art.😛

hello, canes/ poles call em what you like ha ha, 2 x 6 ft from home base £6 and one of Lins fine leather Yolks i have made up some for shooting friends,  one uses some just like your fine set up 👍

 

 

 

 

 

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