Cumbrian Posted April 6, 2020 Report Share Posted April 6, 2020 Does anyone have any experience, good or bad, of Phillips Cold Blue for a whole barrel (or even for a touch-up job)? Or can you recommend any really effective cold blue that is obtainable in the UK, the problem being that several, apparently very good blue treatments are confined to the USA, either for shipping purposes or because of the cost of posting for a dangerous product? The Phillips Blue is available and not too expensive over here. The commonly available Birchwood Casey product does not seem to be top notch. My reading suggests that the best results for any product will come from not only very careful de-greasing, careful preparation, heating the barrel, oiling afterwards, etc, but also from using some kind of etching/bonding first stage agent, e.g. Mark Lee's Browning, which, perhaps surprisingly, is obtainable from Brownells U.K., unlike most of the highly recommended second stage treatments, for example, Oxpho Blue, which are stuck in the U.S. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enfieldspares Posted April 6, 2020 Report Share Posted April 6, 2020 I have either done barrels (and pistols) by a traditional (acid based) hot black that is in reality an accelerated rusting. Or used the Birchwood Casey stuff that looks like blue jelly. The knack in both is scrupulous degreasing and also with the Birchwood Casey it helps to warm the work. Heat is a catalyst so aids the effectiveness of the process. To heat a barrel (that's not being traditional hot blued) quickly and evenly all around use a funnel and pour hot water down it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
team tractor Posted April 6, 2020 Report Share Posted April 6, 2020 I used the birchwood casey on my 22lr and it’s ok but I must of done it 4-5 times in a row to get what I wanted and it lacks protection. I have to leave it oiled and watch finger prints . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enfieldspares Posted April 6, 2020 Report Share Posted April 6, 2020 Yes, like traditional hot black, you do need to repeat the entire process (other than the degreasing) each time. I find that four passes work well. Preparation, preparation, preparation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cumbrian Posted April 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2020 Many thanks to both of you for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enfieldspares Posted April 6, 2020 Report Share Posted April 6, 2020 Wire wool helps to rub down each time but do be aware that some wire wool is oiled. You can degrease this wire wool by rinsing the wire wool with methylated spirits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob85 Posted April 9, 2020 Report Share Posted April 9, 2020 This guy is worth a watch and not just this bluing video he's got other good stuff. he's using the phillips cold blue doing this barrel. I'm planning on doing a set of barrels myself and and have the phillips stuff to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cumbrian Posted April 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2020 Thank you very much for the reference to Swallow Forge. Looks interesting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob85 Posted April 14, 2020 Report Share Posted April 14, 2020 On 09/04/2020 at 18:32, Cumbrian said: Thank you very much for the reference to Swallow Forge. Looks interesting. This is just a quick half ***** job I just done with the trigger guard of my yeoman with the phillips stuff. Granted it's got a coat of oil on it but it seems good so far. When I get my action back into the wood and all this back together I'm planning on doing the barrels Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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