Problem zeroing

[The_Craws]

Having a slight problem zeroing my AA S200. Its a .22 and I'm not sure what range I should be zeroing it at. When I have tried zeroing it at 35 yrds it always hits too low. The reticule on the scope cant go any higher. The scope I'm using is a Pecar Berlin Champion 6x45. What could be the problem?

[Evilv]

If it's a .22 at about 11.5 ft pounds, you'll probably find it should be zeroed at about 26 yards, as the optimum for the flat part of the trajectory. I got that from the Chairgun programme for my TX200 .22. As to why you can't adjust the scope to 35 yards, I'm not sure. I suppose you mounted it properly, and all that? Of course you have, but might be worth a check.

 

I'm an air rifle newbie, so maybe I should shut up and wait for an expert.

 

 

EDIT:

 

I could be wrong, but shouldn't you be adjusting the horizontal bar lower, if the pellets are striking below its aiming point?

Edited July 6, 2005 by Evilv

[deadeye ive]

Check scope rings and mounts to see if they are ok.If they are try using packing on the front scope ring,camera film is good ,1 piece at a time until you get a 50/50 adjustment range at your set zero distance.

 

 

 

Hope this helps

[blackthorn]

22 25 yards

[hawkeye]

30 yds and the reticule goes down to lift point of aim not up B)

[The_Craws]

Um, I think I've made a rather large mistake. I was confused cause my dad said if its shooting low then the reticule should go up but I thought it should have came down. B)

 

Ill try putting it down and adjust it to 25 yrds instead of 35. Dont tell anyone.

Edited July 6, 2005 by The_Craws

[big dave]

Hi Evilv

 

I agree with everything the other lads have said

 

But if i need to pack my mounts i always use a flat strip of lead.

you can use a pellet just flatten it out. It beds in realy well when you

tighten the mounts onto your scopes remember not to over tighten the

clamping rings. B)

 

Hope you sort it out.

[hawkeye]

THE CAWS quote ;Ill try putting it down and adjust it to 25 yrds instead of 35. Dont tell anyone.

 

WHATS IT WORTH TO KEEP QUIET B)

[Evilv]

Um, I think I've made a rather large mistake. I was confused cause my dad said if its shooting low then the reticule should go up but I thought it should have came down.  B)

 

Ill try putting it down and adjust it to 25 yrds instead of 35. Dont tell anyone.

Hey - we've probably all done it. I was setting up my son's B3 with 'iron sights', and I adjusted the rear sight completely the wrong way around.

 

I set up my TX first at 10 yards, to get it more or less right - zeroed on a spot drawn on a sheet of paper, clipped with clothes pegs to a scrap of hardboard - fired five rested shots at the spot, then adjusted the reticule towards the strike point. When it was bang on, I used Chairgun to find out the optimum zero for my weapon's power and pellet weight, and re-set the sight in the same way at that distance.

 

You'll be fine now - Dad's eh? Who'd have 'em? He was probably thinking of iron sights from his National Service days, or something. Rear sight does go up if you're dealing with them.

 

 

Hi Big Dave.

Edited July 7, 2005 by Evilv

[The_Craws]

I got Chairgun. Going to have a look at it.

 

You could be right about iron sights though, he used to have a Diana Model 22.

 

Cheers

[Axe]

Personally I would scope in at 30 yards, your rifle should be more than happy at this range.

 

Heres a post I did a while back:

 

1. Select a good quality scope and mounting system. If necessary seek advice from a reliable airgunsmith to make an appropriate selection.

 

2. Look through the scope at a blank scene (eg. sky or wall but NEVER the sun*). Adjust the eyepiece focus so that the crosshairs (reticle) are sharply in focus.

 

3. Fix the mounts finger-tight on the rails. Fix the scope finger-tight into the mounts.

 

4. Mount the rifle to your shoulder and move the scope to and fro until a full picture is visible (eye relief).

 

5. Ensure the adjustment turrets are positioned at 12 o’clock (elevation) and 3 o’clock (windage) when seen from the eyepiece end of the scope. Ensure the crosshairs are vertical and horizontal.

 

6. Progressively tighten clamp bolts until the scope is gripped evenly and firmly but not crushed.

 

7. Tighten screws to dovetail rail firmly but don’t crush anything.

 

8. Check the screws holding the rifle’s action to the stock. Slack screws cause inaccuracy. Use appropriate tools to tighten screws so as to avoid marring them.

 

9. Set the rifle in a firm rest on a solid bench. This might be sandbags, beanbags or even a rifle clamp. The object is to remove as much human error and movement. Ensure that the rifle is supported by its stock and NOT its barrel. The help of a friend may be useful here; one person to hold the rifle steady and one to adjust the scope.

 

10. With your choice of undamaged pellets, set up a target at your preferred zero distance (at least 20 yards and preferably further). If using a zoom scope, set it to the maximum magnification that allows you to keep your target in sharp focus.

 

11. If you can bore sight your rifle (unlikely), it could save you a lot of time in getting your shots on the target. This involves looking down the bore and adjusting the rifle’s position so you can see your target ‘bull’ down the barrel. Without moving the rifle, adjust the elevation and windage turrets of the scope so the crosshairs intersect the bull.

 

12. If you can’t bore-sight, adjust the rifle as best you can to point at the target which should be as large as you can manage. Without moving the rifle, fire three shots at the target. Repeat this exercise until a neat group of three holes is seen on the target.

 

13. Without moving the rifle, adjust the elevation and windage screws of the scope so the crosshairs intersect the centre of the group.

 

14. Remember it is essential that the rifle be held very securely during these adjustments. Here’s where that friend may come in very useful.

 

15. Realign the rifle to another marked point on the target and fire three more shots at the new ‘bull’. Make minor adjustments to the elevation and windage turrets.

 

16. Repeat step 15 until satisfied. Your rifle is now zeroed at the chosen range and selected pellet type.

 

Note that a change of pellet may require re-zeroing. Also, with cheaper zoom scopes, an alteration in magnification may bring about a shift in zero.

[SNAKEBITE]

With chairgun you can find out what your "secondary zero point is"

Dead simple...........

 

As the pellet arcs up it passes the zero point and then as it drops back down it passes it again. When it passes the centre line the SECOND time this is your optimum zero point. However the first point can be used to roughly set up your scope.

e.g. My optimum zero point is 28yds. The pellet passes the centre line at 11yds. I can zero my scope at 11yds in the back garden and then fine tune in the field. When I did this it was only 4 clicks out.

 

Maybe axe can explain further if needed!

[SNAKEBITE]

AXE,

 

CHEEKY BOY, Posting at the same time !!

[roblade]

pretty much as has already been said

 

with the addition of:

 

if th pellet is hitting LOWER on the scope pack the BACK of the scope up a bit (LOWER BACK problem)

 

if the pellet is hitting HIGHER on the scope pack the FRONT of the scope up (HIGH FRONT moving in)

 

(aint these brackets sad )

 

if your going to be packing the scope at all do a proper job and count the number of clicks (or turns if you want quick) and move turrets to centre (eg 100 clicks from max down to max up, 50 clicks half way) then pack the scope up or down and fine tune by clicks.

 

As for what distane to zero in, chairgun may tell you one distance for one pellet another for the same disstance but different power setting. all well and good BUT..... How many acctually carry a tape?B)?

 

At the end of the day zero at whatever distance your comfortable with.

 

My personal choice is 35 paces then i just practise practise practise to get hold over/under before hittign the fields.

 

hope this helps you out a little

 

ROB

[SNAKEBITE]

At the end of the day zero at whatever distance your comfortable with.

My personal choice is 35 paces then i just practise practise practise to get hold over/under before hittign the fields.

As "sloppy" as that may sound to some, 35 paces makes sense in some way!!

It is easy to remember and easy to "calibrate".

(of course you could measure you favoured distance then pace it out, BINGO your own distance and way of checking it!)

[plexer]

Can I just say that regarding point 9 on zeroing your rifle with a springer it isn't advisable to clamp it too tighlty or hold it down on a solid object because of the movement of the spring and piston etc..

[SNAKEBITE]

Can I just say that regarding point 9 on zeroing your rifle with a springer it isn't advisable to clamp it too tighlty or hold it down on a solid object because of the movement of the spring and piston etc..

From what I understand it is vital to zero in on the stance you will be using in the field.

 

 

QUESTION...........

 

WILL IT BE ADVISABLE TO USE A RESTED POSITION IF IN THE STANDING POSITION WHILE ZEROING IN?

IF SO WHAT IS THE BEST WAY..........

1) LEANING ON SOMTHING E.G. A DOOR FRAME OR POST

2) LEANING ON SOMTHING LIKE A BEAN BAG WHILST RESTING ON A FENCE