Albion
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All this fuss about crash tests... Defenders can't go fast enough to have a 'crash'. It's more of a 'low velocity close proximity incident'
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^ as above, have an old 110. Cheap to run, cheap to fix, cheap to insure and good off road. Forget about motorways though.
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I agree, starving an animal to death would never be deemed ethical. If the outcome is inevitable then what's the point of dragging it out? A lethal dose of morphine would probably be a pleasant exit.
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...and wing mirrors for the long-sighted
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From an eccentric hobbyist/motorist point of view I'd say no, it'll only get used for shooting so it doesn't matter if it's a thirsty heap. Getting it going will be relatively simple, but getting it perfect will take a lifetime. But other than that I agree :look:
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Now dont get me wrong, I love Land Rovers...BUT
Albion replied to Vel Crow's topic in Motoring Section
I don't remember that episode of Only Fools and Horses -
is the hazard switch not fused separately from the indicator? It is on mine!
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I use Island4x4 for Defender parts. It's a good idea to change the oil in everything too - engine, diffs, gearbox and transfer box. Or at the very least top them up. Most likely all the brakes will be seized up and need hitting/prying/swearing to release them. As mentioned above, nearly everything rusts away on old landies. Once you get it looking reasonable give it a coat of waxoyl on the underside to keep the rot out. This will definitely keep you busy for some time
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Not much difference between them... but... underlever for me. Purely because my HW97k handles so well. If I had a HW80 I would be the other side of the fence Not sure about the time to cock/load. Doesn't seem slow with the 97k, especially compared with a single shot PCP.
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Didn't know anyone had a tape measure that long. Tyre choice will be important if its getting lots of road use. Chunky/agri tyres get chewed up quickly on tarmac.
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Wielkie witam mnie i google tłumaczyć. I am lazy with any language
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Physics 101: Energy = force x distance ....or as we know it lbs x feet Joules = newtons (force) x metres (distance) So it's easy to convert now: 1 Newton = 0.225 lbs 1 metre = 3.281 ft so... 1 Joule = 0.225 x 3.281 = 0.738 ftlbs
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FAC relates to power, not calibre. As long as the air rifle is less than 12ftlbs muzzle power you don't need a FAC. Realistically this means it'll commonly be .177 or .22, and uncommonly .20 or .25 BSA meteors are usually around 9-10 ftlbs I believe.
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Try taking the air tank off and putting it on again. If it still leaks get it serviced.