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About udderlyoffroad

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  1. I think we have your answer right there; google business email providers/webhosts and inform your computer shop that you wish to have your domain transferred to a proper host, not an old 486 running squirrelmail in a dusty corner of their stock room. If it is this vital to your business, you need to pay for it. I've been using 1and1 for 20-odd years and they seem fairly stable, not the cheapest option but not the dearest either.
  2. Not quite. The tool itself will need twice the current for a given power output, that is however not related to how much will flow through you in any given situation. If your argument is that the circuit (ring main, site transformer, whatever) is capable of delivering twice the current compared to a 230v, again that's not necessarily true. Look up centre tapped earth transformers (CTE) and tell me what would you rather get a belt from, one of those at 55v or 230v? Legislative considerations aside, 110v is going away anyway. RCDs and RCBOs are standard fit these days (now required in domestic situations), and a lot of sites are going cordless only.
  3. A 110v will be need about twice the current as a 230v motor to produce the same power, thus the size of the armature windings (cross sectional area) will have to be bigger. However, I wouldn't expect this to be much of a factor; after all the tool will be equipped with a sufficient size motor in order to do the job (if it's a professional grade tool, at any rate....). I can see this might be a benefit in a tool that gets a rough life on site, i.e. a drill that takes frequent trips to the floor, but honestly, cant see it being relevant in a mitre saw. Personally, I'd think carefully before saving the £100, I tend to try and use my mitre saw as close to the job I'm doing as possible, and It's a heavy, awkward, lump to cart around. The 110v transformer made of pig iron is hardly going to help matters in this regard. However, if you're just at home in your shed/workshop and it'll never move, no brainer, might as well put the £100 towards more cartridges.... Since you (didnt) ask, I bought the Evolution Rage 255 in about 2010 and it's had 'heavy' DIY use when I was refurbing our house. It's been great, and I do like the ability to cut metal as well, though the blades will wear out quicker. It's probably not for fine woodworking, at least not with the supplied blade. Am sure the Bosch is a step up in that regard.
  4. Hang on; these shows are all being run as a money-making enterprise? I’m under no obligation to ‘support’ anything if it represents poor value. I went a few years ago and it was a truly terrible effort. I could’ve forgiven this if it was a small local show charging as such, but it wasn't. The Shooting show in Birmingham a couple of weeks back was no better. £20 entry (that’s if you booked in advance) and despite the size of the venue, it was the most crowded, claustrophobic show I’ve ever attended. I know we’re all in business to make money, but this was absolutely unacceptable; they could’ve easily hired and filled another hall. I shan’t be going back. Contrast that with the Game Fair at Ragley last year. “Free” tickets courtesy of BASC membership, stands spaced apart so there was room for the expected number of people, decent bogs…guess what, I’m contemplating going again this year. The only complaint would be the lack of actual RFDs there as opposed to Birmingham, thus giving one the chance try some secondhand wares. And obviously, as with any show, if you don’t take a packed lunch, expect to get reamed at the food stands!
  5. Jebus, I was unaware of this. Looks like the HSE have completely knee-jerked and reacted over the top as a backside covering exercise, with very little consideration or guidance given with respect to implementation of its new diktat. Seriously, despite the poor reputation the QHSE profession has in this country, and the perceived MO of the HSE, this is poor even by their standards.
  6. More information needed before we can help you. Was this a formal audit finding by the HSE themselves, or just a private company brought in to assess you? Or did you receive a leaflet through the post? Fume extractors are cheaper than they used to be.... I would agree that for full-time fabrication these days an air-fed mask is pretty standard, indeed most larger customers will insist on it if you want their work. What kind of 'repair' work are you doing? If you're TIGing small assemblies on a bench that's a different use case to stick welding galavanised* farm equipment outside. In all this, remember that PPE is considered the 'last line of defence'. Half the battle with this QHSE stuff is knowing the appropriate language to use, and how to respond to these people. Getting defensive and using the phrase "common sense" will get people's backs up immediately. *Yes, I know, the fumes are toxic...
  7. Thanks for the info. Are you using some kind of NVR to capture all the camera's feeds, or are you just using the apps on your phone?
  8. Any recommendations anyone? There seem to be a myriad of options on Ebay and Amazon. I'm thinking red light rather than white
  9. Thanks for the responses all, will continue the research. It’s a .177 He’s right of course….I don’t particularly have £325 floating around. The lamp requires perseverance, and I take your points about getting yourself in a good spot to ambush. I picked up a pair of secatuers in Lidl for £2.50, so have cleared a couple of overgrown paths (really badger tracks) this past weekend which should allow me to creep up to a couple of good spots. I might, however, invest £30-odd in a more scope-friendly T38 lamp, and use Bumpy’s old gear when I have a willing assistant. Missus is disappearing off on her annual girls holiday at the end of the week, so should have plenty of opportunities to go out over the next week or so.
  10. I have actually mounted the lamp to the scope; the Hatsan is a heavy beast to begin with, and the lamp makes it even heavier, which means I need to support it on a bipod/gate/prone position. It works, to the point that will illuminate bunnies well out of range. Obviously I could buy a more modern torch with LED technology which would alleviate the weight concern Though, the glare in the scope is still quite bright.
  11. Ok chaps, been searching a few threads but not come up with the answer so far, so apologies if this has been covered before. One of my permissions has healthy numbers of rabbits, but unfortunately boundary issues/public footpaths preclude walking up along most of the hedges with the shottie. There are a couple of spots that I can place myself and get a safe shot with the shottie, but there are far more that I can’t. So back to the legal limit air rifle. Cover varies between dense as hell and none at all, so it’s hard going and they will usually bolt before I can creep in range. Bumpy22 has generously donated his old lamping equipment to me, as he’s now a fully paid-up member of the NV club. Problem is, most of the people I know who shoot have many permissions to cover themselves, so co-ordinating a time when a lamp operator and a rifle operator can go out is difficult; and removes the flexibility to just jump in the car after work and go. So I’ve been looking at the Pard 007, like ant.mass is selling for £325 Does this make sense on a12ftlb Hatsan AT44-10? I appreciate of course that the Hatsan will still only be useable out to 40yards or so, and I still need to get close enough to take a shot, without the long-eared bu**ers scarpering. NV is not a substitute for field-craft. Before anybody mentions, yes I’d love to go FAC, either LR or even FAC air rifle, but I highly doubt that if I can persuade the farmer (just catching him is hard enough) to put pen to paper, and that’s before you consider the footpaths bounding the land. Also, the budgetary considerations mean a £300ish NV is realistic (given I’ve just spent many £ on a shotgun), whereas a rifle, scope, case, and separate safe (my missus keeps her shottie in our joint safe) is less so. Though I suppose I could always move the Pard should I ever go FAC. So what’s been people’s experiences who’ve done similar?
  12. I can’t seem to find a reasonably priced one either. I’d quite like a Harrison vertical, to match my lathe (something about machines painted Ferguson grey from the 1950s…) But If you think lathes are bad for nickel-and-diming you for accessories, just wait until you enter the world of mills!
  13. I haven’t peeled many squirrels, but the most recent one I shot had love handles!
  14. Correct, but in my experience they’ve usually been lovingly maintained by recently deceased model engineers, and their heirs want to let them go for the market rate. That said, be wary of a paint job masquerading as a restoration. There are also people willing to pay over the odds for them because they’ve heard great things about them and are chasing some kind of golden age…think 80’s era Berettas (lights blue touch paper, retreats to safe distance). Basically, you’ve got the choice of: old English (Harrison, Colchester, Myford etc) new Chinese (Warco, Amadeal, Axminster etc). (You can probably see where this is going) I went for the former and got a Harrison. It’s big and heavy (800kg! Be warned this is beyond the capacity of tail lifts on 3.5t vans) and dates from 1953. The disadvantage with these old machines is that whilst they may be made well, they will need to have been maintained and serviced to keep the backlash within manageable proportions. The older machines are somewhat analogous to buying an old side-by-side. You can pick them up for peanuts (scrap value) or you can pay many, many pounds for the more coveted, sorted models. Modern Chinese machines are not built anywhere near as substianally but will usually come with a complete suite of accessories, including a set of metric change-gears. Important if you want to cut threads. Also, they are usually bench mounted and thus easier to transport and setup. The analogy here is a modern Turkish gun. Will likely do everything your skill level is capable of, but not finished anywhere near as nicely. And, you will get snobs who immediately dismiss them out-of-hand, despite never having used one in anger. If you don’t have the time or contacts to hunt down that elusive well sorted-machine, then go for a modern package deal. As others have said, ensure you get as much tooling as possible with the lathe. It’s possible to sink a lot of money into the all the bits to go with it, just the same as a rifle setup will end up costing a lot if you have to buy scope, mounts, bipod, moderator, sling swivel all separately. Avoid Ebay as prices get stupid very quickly. Another thing people forget, is that the machine has to be levelled. Otherwise you will end up producing tapers instead of straight passes, as the machine is, in effect, pulling itself out of square due to its substantial mass. Buy, borrow, beg or steal a machinist’s level and some shims. It’s not easy the first time you do it, but worth it. I used to work with commissioning engineers who could unpack, bolt down and level a huge 4m+ machine in a few hours. Impressive to see. Even a benchtop lathe benefits from levelling, and if you do go this route, make sure whatever you’re bolting the thing to is substantial. Youtube is chock full of videos explaining the basics. It’s also full of people who will happily put up a 45+ min video with long rambling introductions to show about 10minutes of useable content. Have a look at ‘This old Tony’ as a starter for 10. He goes on a bit, but it’s humourous and educational. Have a look at lathes.co.uk if you need to research an older model of machine (or you just fancy reacquainting yourself with website design from the mid-90s). Also, ‘The Amateur’s Lathe’ by Sparrey is less than a tenner from Amazon and is a good starter book. Machining is a helluva rabbit hole to go down, and you will always be learning something new.
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