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Larson traps


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We made a magpie trap many years ago.

 

It was 7ft high, 8ft. wide and 12ft long.

 

Just 2"x2" wooden frame, with a small hinged door set in one end.

 

We stapled chicken wire over the whole thing, having made a hole in the "roof".

In this hole we fitted a funnel made out of chicken wire and wired it to the roof.

 

Very "rough and ready", but it worked.

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First you need a larson spring. Then build a small cage out of wood and chicken wire, about the size of a rabbit hutch. Fit a trap door in one side of the cage, with the larsen spring in position so that it closes the door. I think you know the rest, ie bait the trap and prop the door open with a perching stick.

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At this time of year they do little harm, the spring months are the best as they catch the birds when they are very territorial and this is also the peak breeding time for the song and gamebirds that they prey on.

From late summer onwards, trapping corvids is a rather un-productive exercise........well thats according to the Game Conservancy! :thumbs:

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The Magpies,Jays and Crows use to be sent to Rehabilitation Centres where they were taught not to eat songbirds and gamebirds eggs and young.

 

All the "cured" Magpies,Jays and Crows then became vegetarians.

Unfortunately, this meant we had to shoot them to protect the farmers crops.

 

Over time, we have cut out the Rehabilitation Centres. :thumbs:

 

The "serious" answer is;they are humanely despatched.

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Opened myself up for that one!   :thumbs:

 

Why not just shoot them? On the wing of course, not in the trap as that wouldn't be cricket. It must be easier to shoot them than rather than trap, or is it one of those set it and come back later sort of things?

I imagine that only one bird can be trapped at a time a second bird would be spooked by the trapped one.

 

As you might have guessed I have never trapped birds but I am interested.

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The traps are checked a few times a day, but work automatically and so, you don,t have to stand near the trap all the time.

 

It is usual to trap a number of birds at a time, the first bird attracts the others.

It is also common to use a "call bird" as a lure to the other birds.

 

A well placed Larsen trap can catch more magpies in a day ,than most people see in a week.

 

Sorry for the leg-pulling, the Devil made me do it. :thumbs: :D

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I,ve helped oversee a few traps over the years, not always "Larsens", but cheap copies and variations.

 

Its amazing how many corvids can be trapped in quite a small area of land.

Up to 10 birds was quite common. 10-20 birds every now and then. 35 in a day was our best effort, this was in early Summer and was probably 6 or 7 Magpie broods from that Spring.

 

We use to leave the traps in one location for 2-3 days and then move them to another part of the farm, or on to an adjacent farm.

When we had finished the circuit, we would start all over again.

As we cleared an area, birds from around about, would fill it up again.

 

"Nature abhors a vacuum", is a very true saying.

Its the same with fox clearance.

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I've used a larsen to good effect for magpies only. I've never caught anything else in one. Also, I've never managed to catch two at the same time in a larsen, unlike crow traps which are multiple catch traps. Anyone planning to use one needs to read up on the law governing checking of traps, baits and use of call birds.

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  • 1 month later...

The Game Conservancy can give you guide lines on how to make effective traps. Remember that if you are using traps they must be inspected at least once in a 24 hour period.

As for the cage, the cage must be big enough for the call bird to spread its wings and be tall enough that it may stand upright.  This works to your advantage, the more area the call bird has, the quicker his detection by other corvids will be.

Remember:- a waterproof roof is required (call bird, side only)

                fresh water

                and food (if you use dead animals for food, cut the animals open. This will keep your bird healthy) cat food can be used as an alternative.

A perch located near the roof will help keep the bird dry when it rains. Also just watch the bird dance up & down when it feels threatened by another bird.

Note. Not all corvids take to becoming a call bird, some will find the whole experience distressing and will die in a short span of time (Hours - Days).

To catch your first bird place the trap by a known magpie sitty tree.  Good Luck

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  • 3 months later...

Brilliant advice Elmer.  I tried the cat food as I had no dead meat at the time.  I was quite suprised to find my decoy dead after two days.  Perhaps you could have mentioned to leave a tin opener too.:laugh:

 

Actually it worked well.  No joy when next to hedge but moved under a roosting tree.  Bingo. Sound advice too.

Good to see someone who knows the scripts.

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My best season was 300 magpies and 90 crows.

I think I got the plans from the Game Conservancy.

The trap plans produce a trap 32 X 32 X 20 inches.

I have made dozens for sale to people but the cost of sending them is prohibitive. Use 2" X 1" tanalised roofing batten. Predrill holes for 3" galvanized nails to stop it splitting. Use screws, stainless or brass, to fix the plywood top so that you can take it off to release the tension on the springs when it is not in use.

If you have a lot of foxes about, put the trap on top of an oil drum or they will brake in for the call bird. You sometimes find a callbird with one leg missing because the other has been pulled off through the wire mesh.

 

A magpie call bird will catch magpies and crows. A crow call bird will not catch magpies, only crows in my experience.

Ravens are too crafty to get caught!

 

I have only ever made top entry traps, but it is said that side entry traps are better for catching crows.

 

Once you have caught your first call bird. Move it, in the trap, to the territory of another pair and you should catch them within an hour. Then use one of them as a call bird in a different territory, and so it goes on.

Start using call birds at the beginning of April. March is a bit cruel on them in my opinion. Keep food and water in their compartment at all times. They love tripe, but they will equally eat the dead birds you have trapped and killed.

Use them until the end of June or when you stop catching. You are unlikely to catch Jays until the middle of June when they have their own young in their nests. I have never caught a Jay myself but I know someone who has caught a lot.

 

It is worth doing just to sees the extra small songbirds about.

The RSPB traps crows and magpies on the Somerset levels. They use a contractor, with a condition that all evidence is destroyed. They also have foxes shot to protect ground nesting birds. Not sure what they do about hedgehogs!!!

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A good tip if you have a top entry larsen is to raise the trap of the ground, 45gallon drum is good and stable. This way the bird gets peed off with the decoy bird being higher than him and he can't bounce around the outside. He has to land on top and bingo.

I've found top entry good for magpies and side entry on the deck best for crows. But if there mad enough with the decoy they'll go in. :thumbs:

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