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Airgunners - Whats your zeroing method and what do you use ?


Salop Matt
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As above guys ! I changed scope on my rapid on friday but I struggled to zero..... I just couldnt get comfy . I wobbled, drifted, shuck and stired the air.

 

So what process do you guys go through and what methods and tools do you use when you zero ?

 

I need to bench rest shoot to zero I think.

 

Friday i tryed by lying on the floor off a bypod but it just wasnt working for me !

 

Iv never had this issue before but still ! :blush:

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I prefer prone using a bipod. You need to be good and stable. With an air rofle I would usually start at 20 yards and get it something like then move out to hunting distance [~35 yards]. I'm never 100% accurate so usually went for 5 or even 10 shot groups.

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It sounds as though the scope dosen't fit comfortably to your eye (eye relief). Try loosening the mounts, get into your favorite shooting position and, with your eyes closed, shoulder your rifle. Now open your eye and move the scope forward and backwards until you get the correct eye relief, tighten mounts and start zeroing.

 

When the everything is in the right place and you feel comfortable and relaxed you should find it easier to use and therefore group.

 

I zero from a table but in the field I nearly always use shooting sticks that are the right height to use when kneeling/sitting.

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In a perfect world, a clamp to hold the gun totally steady is best. But anything that holds the rifle steady as possible will do.

But the rifle HAS TO BE ROCK STEADY WHEN ZEROING!!!! :yes: I use either a bench or prone with bipod(my most rock solid position).

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As has been mentioned, check your scope is set up right first, its a fiddly job so might as well do it right the first time, I hate changing scopes! Also practice your positions- they can vary considerably to what you practice in a nice cosy dry range!

 

Try this, it worked well for me, was slightly off zero when I took it out the rest but I think thats because the rest supports the rifle in a different way to me:

 

Stick your rifle in a bench rest/ bags (must be very secure! You should not be able to move the rifle or else this will mess it up!)

Position it so that the rifle aims dead on the bullseye

Fire off a shot

WITHOUT MOVING THE RIFLE twist the scope adjustments until the cross hairs line up with the hole you just made!

Move the whole rest so that the cross hairs are back on the bullseye

Fire another shot

keep doing this until the point of impact is where you want it to be! If you have limited space, there are plenty of calculations so that you can zero a scope at 25 yards on a 10 yard range etc (basically involves compensating the POI up or down)

 

I suppose it is really down to personal choice, there is no 'written in stone' method for zeroing, there are many many different methods.

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Firing one shot and then altering the scope is,in my opinion,a waste of time.You need something firm but soft to rest the gun on then fire at least 5 shots at a target before you start fiddling with your turrets.Make sure that your scope is correctly mounted and that the crosshairs are set dead vertical to the gun.If you have a moderator fitted then take it off just incase its not true to the barrel-if your zero changes once you replace it then you know there,s a problem.Take your time and get it right-the confidence this will give you is well worth it.

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35 yards as a rule for me, put some sand inforont of your backstop and paper up the back of the backstopp ( very low tech ) aim at a tin can first if it hits the sand - adjust up then if it hits to the to one side of the can adjust left, then smaller can then smaller can on its side.. not aiming for .0000005 groups just accurate enough for consistant head shots :)

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Indoor zero's are always best but not everybody has this facility. Draw a big cross on your card/paper, position it at about 20yds first, makin sure the vertical line of the cross is 100% vertical, shoot a group at it, ignore the horizontal position of the group, this part of the exercise is just to get the vertical part of your zero 100% correct (before wind has chance to affect it) before moving to your longer zero range, once it is spot on move to your usual longer zero range and shoot at the horizontal line, ignore the vertical position of the shots, you know that part is spot on already, just concentrate on hitting the horizontal line, if your shots are going to either side you know it's the wind and not your vertical zero. I used this method for years when I was shooting FT and won countless comps, England team, grand prix etc, so it's a proven method mate, give it a try!

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about 7years ago i bought a cheap £8 red rifle laser from ebay, clamped my rifle up in a vice, let a shot of then tallyed the laser up with the hole, so now wenever i change my scope or just ajust the scope to a longer or shorter range i look down the scope and tally it with the red dot! as the laser is so close inline with the barrel the laser keeps its zero from short to long distant shots.

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What I do is get the empty cardboard box your cans of beer come in. Its virtually perfect A4 size. I then get an a4 bit of paper and draw around a 2p on it, to give me rows of 2p size circles. I usually do something like 3 or 4 rows of 5 with nice spacing between them.

 

I then stick this 35 yards (or whereever i want my zero) away down my garden. I put some bricks or lumps of wood in it to act as a backstop and stop it blowing away.

 

I set myself up, lying down usually with 10 pellets in the mag. And aim at 1 target. Fire. Adjust the scope, and repeat this. Usually only takes me 8 shots to get it all zero`d how I think it should be. I then practise on the other 2p sized targets ive setup, sometimes adjusting the scope slightly until im happy. I can get 5p size groupings at 35yards easily like this.

 

What I then do is try a few shots at various distances from 20yards upto 50yards to get used to the hold over / hold under.

 

One trick i also used to enjoy doing, is saving up my empty beer cans. Then drop them at random around the garden, with the bottom of the can facing where id be shooting from. Then my "challange" would be to guess the distance and shoot the can perfectly in the centre of the bottom of the can. I was lucky I had a massive back garden, so all the shots would always have a safe backdrop. Unfortunately I cant do this in my current house. :(

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