Frenchieboy Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 Some of you might remember that a few weeks ago I put a post up about an old side by side I had aquired: http://forums.pigeonwatch.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/163891-italian-sxs-info-pleae/ I have been out with the gun and I can honestly say that I have never shot so well as I do with this shot gun! I am now so fond of it that I have decided to try to do a full restoration job on it! I have never done anything like this before so I would welcome any advice of info on how to go about it. So far I have reblued the barrels with a Tetra Bluing kit and I am delighted with the results. The next step I wwould like to take on is the woodwork. For it's age the woodwork is in reasonable condition - There are a couple of dings and knocks which I hope show up in the photos and there has been a repair done near the mechanism - This looks like it was professionally done! I have heard that you can use a hot iron with a wet teat towel to raise small dendt out of woodwork - Can anyone confirm this and tell me how to go about it please. I plan on stripping the woodwork with Nitromoores and then rubbung it down lightly with fine wire wool - Is there any special technique involved in dsoing this properly please? I should add that the chequering is only lightly done - This could well be a case of it is worn through many years of use and abuse - How is the best way to treat this section of the woodwork please? The mechanism looks quite and the engraving is very good but the trigger guard looks a little "tatty" - Could I use something like "Silvo" to bring this up or would I be better to Blue the trigger guard! I relly would like any help you can offer and I should add that time is not important, I am willing to spend as long as it takes to do a good job as I have an old Over and Under coming that can be put into service while I work on this gun. I have included a section of photos and will update as and when I go through each stage of the restoration. The first photos are of the barrel before and after! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TaxiDriver Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 Have you seen the topic below titled 'Iron out the dinks' An old fella who was a mate of my late dad was a keen woodworker and he once showed me how to steam iron out some dents in an old air rifle stock, works well so long as the wood fibres haven't been broken I believe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frenchieboy Posted May 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 Here are a few photos of the rest of the gun. You will see that the chequering os quite fine, this is one section I am wary of damaging! Photo 4484.1 shows the repair to the stock! The "dinks" on the fore-end are another area of concern - This is a part that I would like to use an iron and wet tea towel on if you think this is practical. The trigger guard could do with "smartening up" any suggestions please? The right hand trigger is a bit tight to fire but I will have a professional gun smith do them! Photo 4489.1 shows the complete gun with the barrels reblued! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad1 Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 if you can get the trigger guard off i can powder coat it for ya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arjimlad Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 Hi FB - there is something beretta-ish about that gun... the little woodcock on the top lever... I used the damp tea towel plus a hot iron on an old gun stock. I padded the tea towel up over the dink about 3 thicknessed, then just put the iron on short & sharp - hear the steam hiss into the wood, then lift off & inspect it. If your stock is varnished the nitromors will do a good job. Wash it off with a green scratchy pad. Using the synthetic scotch abrasive pads rather than wire wool stops little bits of rusting wire wool getting into the chequering. The nitromors lifted the varnish out of the chequering well and I used a toothbrush to get it out. I stained the stock down with Van Dyck crystals (made from walnut shells apparently), then I just added oil to it like the rest of the stock, but I did not use any abrasive on the chequering. I used some stock oil with alkanet, to bring my AYA stock up nicely after taking a varnish finish off it. I am sure you will make a lovely job of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
straightshooter1 Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 Hi there great looking shotty shame about the wood to be honest you'd be best to steam out the damage as best you can then the checkering looks as if it could do with renewing I can sort this for you very reasonably just check out my topic if you require any advice please do not hesitate to give me a shout via pm I'd be more than happy to give you any pointers you need if you want to do it yourself sacha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vampire Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 yhpm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wymberley Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 (edited) FB, hi. I'm where you are a few weeks back. I picked up an AYA 25 Boxlock which appealed to me. As sound as a bell I thought but needed blueing and the fore-end and stock, particularly the chequering, resembled yours apart from any damage. Sadly, I'm shedding braincells faster than a Chesapeake does water so the chances of me learning how to get a photograph onto the site are non existant. Like you, the chequering work was beyond me and I've never had much luck with home blacking. Consequently, the gun went off to UK Gun Repairs for these two jobs. While it was still there, the deadly duo talked me into having them do the stock and fore end as well. I don't suppose we know the value of your gun in monetary terms but what is reflected in your posts is its worth to you. I would heartily recommend that as the duo have probably seen the photo's already that you give UK GR a bell, you may be surprised. Cheers PS They checked it over and it is as sound as a bell, circa 1964 Edited May 9, 2011 by wymberley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frenchieboy Posted May 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 if you can get the trigger guard off i can powder coat it for ya Thanks for the offer but the trigger guard is an integral part of the mechanism. Srtaightshooter1- Is the checkering very hard to do if you have access to the tools please? If I don't feel confident enough to do it myself maybe you could send me a PM with an aproximate price for you to do it for me with an idea of your timescale and at what stage you would like the stock and for-end! Thanks to everyone else for their input and help! FB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
here iam Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 Happy birthday Frenchie Lad I can recomend straightshooter He did a berretta 303 stock and forend for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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