gaz-loc Posted February 23, 2012 Report Share Posted February 23, 2012 Need help on what bullet weight to use with a 1:10 twist 25-06. Currently use the 117 grain heads to an okayish effect but not the tack driver i'm after, so i'm wondering if lighter heads would stabilise better? cheers in advance Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ackley Posted February 23, 2012 Report Share Posted February 23, 2012 Need help on what bullet weight to use with a 1:10 twist 25-06. Currently use the 117 grain heads to an okayish effect but not the tack driver i'm after, so i'm wondering if lighter heads would stabilise better? cheers in advance Gaz are you homeloading or factory ammo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gaz-loc Posted February 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2012 factory ammo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ackley Posted February 23, 2012 Report Share Posted February 23, 2012 factory ammo well mate unfortunatly it will "never" be a tack driver using factory ammo as there too inconsistant,what accuracy are you hoping for ?? the only thing you can do is buy a box of each make which is available and try them,problem then being it would be cheaper to give the gun to someone who works loads for rifles by reloading them buy the ammo off them or turn to the dark side and have a go yourself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gaz-loc Posted February 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2012 well mate unfortunatly it will "never" be a tack driver using factory ammo as there too inconsistant,what accuracy are you hoping for ?? the only thing you can do is buy a box of each make which is available and try them,problem then being it would be cheaper to give the gun to someone who works loads for rifles by reloading them buy the ammo off them or turn to the dark side and have a go yourself Cheers for the reply. I get where you are coming from with the reloading. Have looked at it before and it was just the expense of getting the kit to start with. Was hoping for some sub moa groups but hearing what you have to say there it might be a tad optimistic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njc110381 Posted February 23, 2012 Report Share Posted February 23, 2012 You should be able to get under MOA with the right factory load. Half is asking a lot but MOA isn't that tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deershooter Posted February 23, 2012 Report Share Posted February 23, 2012 I have had a .2506 for over 12 years home loading is the only way to go sub 1/4 inch at 120 yards no problem the best factory ammo I used was Winchester Positive Expanding Hollow Point, 120 grain Deershooter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gaz-loc Posted February 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2012 I have had a .2506 for over 12 years home loading is the only way to go sub 1/4 inch at 120 yards no problem the best factory ammo I used was Winchester Positive Expanding Hollow Point, 120 grain Deershooter Cheers, i will have to give the Winchester rounds a go and see what happens. Currently using the Hornady soft points and was quite dissapointed they were spraying a bit. It was a really snug fit when chambering the rounds, do you think the heads are touching the rifling too much? Is it a 1:10 twist you use i take it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ackley Posted February 23, 2012 Report Share Posted February 23, 2012 You should be able to get under MOA with the right factory load. Half is asking a lot but MOA isn't that tight. as the man says above MOA with a factory rifle should be doable,I thought you wanted really tight groups "tack driver" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted February 23, 2012 Report Share Posted February 23, 2012 Hey listen up factory ammo isn't what it was, shot some bug hole little groups last summer with my .243" at over 200yds. I couldn't re-load at the time as my house was in bits with no roof on etc and my gear in storage. I posted about it at the time, it shocked me fact is though they are now using better heads (these were 70grn Nosler). Havent much idea about what will shoot in your .25 as i have never owned one but there will be something just dont scrimp and clean very well before testing each type Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gaz-loc Posted February 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2012 as the man says above MOA with a factory rifle should be doable,I thought you wanted really tight groups "tack driver" yes i did say "tack driver" but it has been established that that ain't gonna happen with factory ammo so in the mean time i will try and find the best of the factory stuff until the time comes when i get into reloading. any suggestions? or is there anything else you want cleared up first Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ackley Posted February 23, 2012 Report Share Posted February 23, 2012 yes i did say "tack driver" but it has been established that that ain't gonna happen with factory ammo so in the mean time i will try and find the best of the factory stuff until the time comes when i get into reloading. any suggestions? or is there anything else you want cleared up first what you using the rifle for deer or varmints ?? take a look on the net at all the ammo makers there will usually be info for what twist they recomend,this may save you time and money buy a box and them being like a shotgun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gaz-loc Posted February 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2012 Hey listen up factory ammo isn't what it was, shot some bug hole little groups last summer with my .243" at over 200yds. I couldn't re-load at the time as my house was in bits with no roof on etc and my gear in storage. I posted about it at the time, it shocked me fact is though they are now using better heads (these were 70grn Nosler). Havent much idea about what will shoot in your .25 as i have never owned one but there will be something just dont scrimp and clean very well before testing each type Sounds promising! I was hopeful somebody had maybe a rough idea of what kind of rounds to try out as i don't particularly want to go spending £26 - £30 a box on stuff that just isnt going to work in the 1:10 twist. Going to have to by the looks of things though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gaz-loc Posted February 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2012 what you using the rifle for deer or varmints ?? take a look on the net at all the ammo makers there will usually be info for what twist they recomend,this may save you time and money buy a box and them being like a shotgun Roe deer and the occasional fox. The hornadys were like a shotgun. Like i said earlier i suspect it might be because the bullets are touching the rifling too much when chambered due to them being quite long? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ackley Posted February 23, 2012 Report Share Posted February 23, 2012 (edited) Roe deer and the occasional fox. The hornadys were like a shotgun. Like i said earlier i suspect it might be because the bullets are touching the rifling too much when chambered due to them being quite long? if you have afactopry rifle I dought they will be too long as there all made to SAMMI spec,maybe the brass was a little tight,give your chamber a good clean out also the bolt face take a look at Nosler there expensive but pretty good also Norma,you can save the brass on both makes for reloading in the future unfortunatley its going to be a suck it and see exercise,which will drive you mad and empty your wallet by the way if its shoting like a shotgun,best to run through a few checks on the rifle powder fouling (kills accuracy) copper fouling (as above) rings and bases are tight scope isnt faulty all of the above does happen so best to eliminate every variable Edited February 23, 2012 by Ackley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gaz-loc Posted February 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2012 if you have afactopry rifle I dought they will be too long as there all made to SAMMI spec,maybe the brass was a little tight,give your chamber a good clean out also the bolt face take a look at Nosler there expensive but pretty good also Norma,you can save the brass on both makes for reloading in the future unfortunatley its going to be a suck it and see exercise,which will drive you mad and empty your wallet Funny you mention that abt the brass being too tight. I did notice the necks of the brass did look like they had been a tight squeeze. Does this affect accuracy much? The rifle is a tikka t3 varmint just to add and it is new so the chamber shouldn't be dirty. Just fired the first box through it and thought here we go again because i had this same issue with the 222 but eventually found its sweet spot. And yes it does drain the wallet and did drive me very mad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gixer1 Posted February 24, 2012 Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 A T3 with the right factory ammo in ok nick should shoot under MOA all day long, it will always be possible to improve with reloading but as Kent says factory ammo has come a long way in a short space of time.. Regards, Gixer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
casts_by_fly Posted February 24, 2012 Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 I'd probably look at 100 gr bullets. To me, that is where the quarter bores shine for performance on deer and deer sized things. You don't need a heavy bullet for fox and roe (anthing above 60 gr is plenty) and the 100's will give you a bit more speed plus ensure you're not pushing the boundaries of twist rate vs bullet length. I don't know what's out aside from 100 gr rem corelocts, but I suspect there is a 100 gr nosler BT factory load which would be my choice (and especially if handloading). thanks, rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deershooter Posted February 24, 2012 Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 Cast_by_fly I take it that you do not own a .2506? Deershooter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al4x Posted February 24, 2012 Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 Might be worth a pm to samf and mungler on here. As far as I know both have a 25.06 and both use factory ammo so you may get a proper answer rather than quite so much speculation. I got on well with norma ammo in most of mine and it shot as well as I could, unlike ackley not all of us are in the habbit of castrating rabbits with centrefires so tack driver means different things to different people Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ackley Posted February 24, 2012 Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 Might be worth a pm to samf and mungler on here. As far as I know both have a 25.06 and both use factory ammo so you may get a proper answer rather than quite so much speculation. I got on well with norma ammo in most of mine and it shot as well as I could, unlike ackley not all of us are in the habbit of castrating rabbits with centrefires so tack driver means different things to different people why try to have a dig at me ?? if you have anything to say to me please do it by PM the OP asked "for tack driving accuracy" meaning 1/4 to 1/2 MOA,at the end of the day accuracy kills Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
casts_by_fly Posted February 24, 2012 Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 Cast_by_fly I take it that you do not own a .2506? Deershooter I do not. Some friends and family in the US do (all shoot the 100 gr core-locts to good effect), but I don't yet. It is my next purchase when I get back to the US though. I've researched the various 25's and I've settled on the 25-06, though a wildcat 25 WSM still piques my interest (100 gr at 3700 fps is a lightning bolt). Thanks, Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gaz-loc Posted February 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 Thanks for all the reply's. So basically it's another case of trial and error. There is nothing more depressing than blowing 30 quid on a box to see them spray about the place. Especially when the rifle is fully bedded down with sand bags and has a good zeiss scope on it. I guess that's rifle shooting for you though G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ackley Posted February 24, 2012 Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 Thanks for all the reply's. So basically it's another case of trial and error. There is nothing more depressing than blowing 30 quid on a box to see them spray about the place. Especially when the rifle is fully bedded down with sand bags and has a good zeiss scope on it. I guess that's rifle shooting for you though G when was the last time you really cleaned it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gaz-loc Posted February 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 when was the last time you really cleaned it [/quote After every 5 or so shots as im currently breaking it in. When i say the gun is new i mean 20 rounds new Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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