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Discovery mileage


Daveo26
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Iv been looking at a disco 1 its had all the rusty bits replaced and undersealed/waxoiled it runs great and looks tidy but its done 170,000 miles!

Its got a good service history from a Landrover dealer and they are allegedly motorway miles mainly.

Should I discount it due to the mileage?

Its a 300TDI on an "R" plate, Thoughts please :D

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Iv been looking at a disco 1

 

Good choice

its had all the rusty bits replaced and undersealed/waxoiled

Thats a lie and a massive one at that, all disco 1's have rust somewhere on them, make sure you check the body mounts, the sills, wheel arches and boot floor as thats a ****** to work on! Or you pay £600 to £700 for a garage to do it. Tap the chassis with a small hammer to check the rails

 

it runs great and looks tidy but its done 170,000 miles!

 

Good sign, but as always check the smoke colour on startup, rev it and check for rattling and drive it for a bit to check everything works and that it doesn't overheat

Its got a good service history from a Landrover dealer and they are allegedly motorway miles mainly.

 

Good sign history wise make sure the transmission fluids were done every 20k or so max on an auto, same for engine oil that should be done every 6k, diffs and t'fer box are just a case of keep your eye on it and change when dirty

Should I discount it due to the mileage?

 

Well as I don't know the current price you've been offered it at I can't judge but as a rule of thumb its all about the body and chassis, the engines are easy to work on and last forever if taken care of properly. Just make sure its not acting up and check to see if the SRS and ABS lights come on then go off as you can't take the bulbs out anymore for the new MOT laws

Its a 300TDI on an "R" plate, Thoughts please :D

 

Ok well to compare, last year; I paid 3k for my 98 Disco, 72,000 on clock, FSH, 3 owners from new, full tank of fuel, Cibie lights on front, years MOT, he collected us from the train station, it had 4 new BFG's on it and it was an ES spec plus it was rust free and had just had a new stainless system put on. Yes I got a decent deal but still bear that in mind, its all about the rust alongside the feel of it when you test it

 

 

 

Hope that helps a bit :good:

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Dr_evil, It has had a new cross member, boot floor, inner and outer sills and innerwings on the back then its been undersealed and wax oiled

:good: The bloke selling is the brother of my shooting buddy.

So im really not worried about the rust and along with your other pointers and the other replies im going to give a good look over, cheers lads.

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Dr_evil, It has had a new cross member, boot floor, inner and outer sills and innerwings on the back then its been undersealed and wax oiled

:good: The bloke selling is the brother of my shooting buddy.

So im really not worried about the rust and along with your other pointers and the other replies im going to give a good look over, cheers lads.

 

 

In that case it might be rust free :P check the inner frame of the front wings though as they like to rot!

 

 

As to the rest though it sounds good so just have a proper look and check for noises and smoke, one thing though if its been modded with a lift kit check the prop for play as the rubber donuts will get munched if the aftermarket wide angle one hasn't been fitted to counter the lift

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The floors rot out if you get the carpet wet too often due to the lack of heating in the boot and drainage. This means rust as the carpet just keeps the whole thing covered in water, makes more sense to catch it early then put in a chequer plate boot floor or a stainless one

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no offence to disco owners id like 1 for fun lol seriously most 4 wheel drives seem to have worse rust probs than cars is that purely due to off roading?

 

The floors rot out if you get the carpet wet too often due to the lack of heating in the boot and drainage. This means rust as the carpet just keeps the whole thing covered in water, makes more sense to catch it early then put in a chequer plate boot floor or a stainless one

 

ok thats the answer to my last question.

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Yeah they're great fun to play in, essentially a 100 inch 90 underneath they'll go anywhere you point them if running the right tyres. Just make sure you clean them, as you can see I tore up quite a bit of grass, that was all stuck to the arches.

 

 

This is my toy so far, the tyres are the most recent mod only 245/75's but they grip in the mud which is the main thing, next mods are a front and rear ARB style winch bumper, the local metal workers are making me some rather aggressive 7mm steel ones for less than half the price of a single 4mm ARB bumper so it's gonna be fun this autumn when the muds here :D

 

 

 

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Edited by Dr_evil
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If you're considering one of the two you'd be better off with the disco, they're easier and cheaper to fix as they run LR engines in the dervs rather than BMW ones and the electrics don't throw hissy fits! Unless you buy a classic soft dash RR in which case its the same basically, the 3speed chevy auto in the old ones is very good offroad.

 

 

 

I do prefer them to a fender, at least when clean they can look presentable

Edited by Dr_evil
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Cooking is usually a radiator problem due to the entrance and exit being on the same side rather than like the 200 where they were diagonally opposite

P gasket failure is the most common cause, coolant level drops below water pump which then cavitates

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P gasket failure is the most common cause, coolant level drops below water pump which then cavitates

 

 

The engines weren't the best design ever, once tweaked into the stronger 2.8 version though they're more or less bulletproof from what I've read

 

 

However they're much less prone to overheating than the gaylander 1.8 :sly:

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