finreid Posted April 7, 2012 Report Share Posted April 7, 2012 anyone on here make and sell there own magnets? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Essex Hunter Posted April 7, 2012 Report Share Posted April 7, 2012 (edited) anyone on here make and sell there own magnets? Just make my own....... http://s856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/TheEssexHunter/rotary/?action=view¤t=rotary9.jpg TEH Edited April 7, 2012 by The Essex Hunter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grandalf Posted April 7, 2012 Report Share Posted April 7, 2012 With my welding skills I'm certainly not going to be selling them - But I do make my own. Lorry windscreen wiper motors seems to be the best. Various speeds and robust. Use a 12v battery off a truck and your in business. Don't want to hump it far though - heavy. I can usually drive most of my gear to where I want it so the weight is not a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pboro shot Posted April 7, 2012 Report Share Posted April 7, 2012 to make one as good as a factory iterm you couldnt buy the steel for the price then work in the other bits and bobs thumb screws etc i work as a welder/fabricator and did think about making some, think useing all new steel,motor,then paint it would cost min £100 and thats with no real profit i also priced up making a ali version witch would have been super light but would cost silly £ but would be bit smart maybe ill do one outta "scrap" some time . if you want to make one just for yourself using secondhand motor/scrap steel etc proberly do it for next to nothing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan-250 Posted April 7, 2012 Report Share Posted April 7, 2012 I made mine for £6 that's all it cost for the new wiper motor, all the other bits I scrounged from work , adjustable arms. Fixed at 30 degrees tho. Then got that camo tape you wrap round onto itself and did the full thing in that. Looks ok for a cheapo job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aga man Posted April 7, 2012 Report Share Posted April 7, 2012 I made mine for £6 that's all it cost for the new wiper motor, all the other bits I scrounged from work , adjustable arms. Fixed at 30 degrees tho. Then got that camo tape you wrap round onto itself and did the full thing in that. Looks ok for a cheapo job. what wiper motor did you use mate {for what car}. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan-250 Posted April 7, 2012 Report Share Posted April 7, 2012 The cheapest one on there, it was originally for a skoda favrit I think it was. Brand new in the box old stock delivered, does the same job as any other and its a bosch too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aga man Posted April 7, 2012 Report Share Posted April 7, 2012 The cheapest one on there, it was originally for a skoda favrit I think it was. Brand new in the box old stock delivered, does the same job as any other and its a bosch too nice one fella just in the process of making mine! thanks for replying Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Essex Hunter Posted April 8, 2012 Report Share Posted April 8, 2012 (edited) nice one fella just in the process of making mine! thanks for replying What ever motor you get second hand, get 2 while you have the spanners out. There are some cars with quite big units on and they will eat the battery up faster. http://s856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/TheEssexHunter/rotary/ The parts that are needed are as follows. Windscreen wiper motor and the bracket that it comes with from a car 1.4mts of 10mm diameter mild steel rod 1 piece of mild steel sheet 150x100x2mm 300mm length of 25mm diameter steel tube 100mm length of steel tube with an internal dia of 25.4mm 13mm socket (3/8) drive 150mm x 20 x 5 mm mild steel flat bar 80mm piece of mild steel box section approx internal size of 13/14/15 mm 180mm piece of mild steel round section or box section to fit in to above box section. Two bonnet stays from scrap cars approx 1mtr in length with a diameter of 6/8mm. Two pieces of 50x50x2/3mm weld mesh 300x150mm Four crocodile clips and length of 1.5mm diameter steel wire Fibre or nylon washers to reduce friction. (From plumbers merchant or bearing suppliers or make them from sheet material) Two steel washers 25mm outside/diamanter and 10mm internal/diameter Before you attempt to undertake the building of this rotary, make sure you work safely and use reverent safety equipment! After you have located all the parts, strip the windscreen motor (picture1) and trim down original bracket (picture2/2a) so that the three ground spikes will clear the motor when welded to the bracket (spikes approx 300mm) Shape the 150x100x2mm so it will fit (picture2) remember your bracket may be different to mine, depending what vehicle it is from! However, it should resemble something like (picture3). Once you have a good fit you can mark out the locating holes and the centre hole from the back, then drill these out, filling out the centre hole will be safer as the dia is over 25mm! (picture3/4) Tack weld the short piece of tube (picture 3/4/5) to the plate, making sure it is not protruding through and it is square and true, bolt the plate to the main bracket and to the motor and check that the spindle is in the centre of the tube, if so remove and fully weld, you may need to elongate your 3 fixing holes to help out with the centring of the spindle. Depending on which direction you decide to run you rotary I would advice to weld the nut, which came off the spindle, to the spindle, this is properly the most critical part to the build, as you do not want to melt your motor, so take great care! The size of the nut will determine the size of socket, which in turn will drive the rotary, make sure that you check the socket does fit the nut! (Mine was a 13mm nut) In (picture5/5a/6) you will see a notch filed out and a small pip welded and shaped to fit the slot this was done so the long piece of tube stays at the same height every time and also enables the weight of the rotary to run on a crude bearing and not put the weight on the motor as they are not designed to take thrust in that way. As you will have seen on the parts list there are two different dia of tube required, the dimensions I have given are close to what are on my rotary and you can change to suit your own build, a close fit is recommended, not to tight or loose as it has to work in the field and I have made it so it will break into two halfs to fit in to a ruck sack. The position of the pip on the long tube should be around 70/ 80mm this will allow the tube to fit over the spindle, but no so long as to foul on the motor housing which is tapered (picture5a/6) with that completed. Take a length of the 10mm diameter rod approximately 320mm in length and file/grind one end to a square. To fit the square of your socket, if your make this a tight fit then you can drive the rod into the socket and roll the rod on a flat surface allowing you to check that the socket is running true prior to welding. (A good tip is to clean off any chrome on the square end of the socket prior to welding) This done you know have the drive rod, so assemble the base and the long tube using the slot and pip, slide the drive rod and socket down over the nut on the spindle, you will need 2 steel washers with some clearance on the 10mm rod. Then take the piece of 150x20x5mm and drill a 10mm hole in the centre of the bar (picture7/7a) then form the flat bar with an angle on both ends approx 10/15 deg (picture7/7a) if you make the bar into 3 sections of 50mm this will keep things even. Cut one washer in half, place the second washer over the rod, and check that it is centred on the tube. Tack weld the washer and place the two halfs of the second washer on top of the first, then place the bar on top, tack in place check that it sits even then you can fully weld the washer and bar The reason for the split washer is so you will leave clearance to place a thrust washer to act as a bearing) Cut-off reaming execs rod. To fit youre bearing snip the nylon washer on one side and it will slide over the rod. Moving on to the arms, I used a piece of round bar and ground one end square to fit the box section about 45mm which I welded on to the angled flat bar see (picture7) One piece of box section inside another will work fine but remember to weld a small pip to stop the box sliding through, a good size to use around 12/13/14mm. My arms are made of square section steel what I had to hand, but using the bonnet stays from scrap cars is less expensive! In addition, in turn does not use up new steel! Around a meter in length for the arms is ok, I used a piece of lead with the same weight of a big pigeon and held the arm in a vice and gave it a good bounce to check it out! The cradles are made out of 50x50 2/3mm weld mesh (picture 8) if you count the squares, this will give you the size, I formed the mesh so the birds body sits in the cradle and the sides are angled down a bit, it is not hard to re-bend the mesh to suit. The two centre spikes, which can be made from the off cuts when making the cradle, they need to be placed so; the middle of the breast can be pushed on to them. The spike for the head is placed so it goes in to the throat, (bend the cradle and the placement of these will be obvious) Making the wing clips is fairly simple, take a 200mm length of your 1.5mm wire fold in half put the folded end in the vice and twist the wire about its self not to tight. Take a crocodile clip and push the folded end through the hole in the clip and secure with the fixing screw and close the end of the clip over the wire. Place a bird on the cradle and open a wing so its in that classic position, bend the wire in a J shape and allow your self enough material to secure around the cradle as to hold the wing at about ¾ of its length. (picture 8/9/10) I mixed up some brown paint and then dabbed green paint here and there, once it had dried, I used a kitchen-cleaning pad to knock of the shine, a length of twin core flex with terminals to suit the motor and spade ends for the battery (I would solder the ends as well as crimping to be safe) I hope you enjoy building the rotary as much as I did, there have been a couple of modifications it the time I have had it. In addition, a repair to the cradles as I run over them with my quad when they fell off on the trip back! TEH Edited April 8, 2012 by The Essex Hunter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aga man Posted April 8, 2012 Report Share Posted April 8, 2012 thanks for tha essex hunter. that was my original concern with the wiper motor. didn't know whether some were better than others. i was told a ford escort front one was just the job. will bear your advice in mind. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JR1960 Posted April 8, 2012 Report Share Posted April 8, 2012 I used the wiper motor out of a Suzuki SJ but only because i had several spares laying about, as well as bits of scrap metal, so you could say it cost me nothing. If you're fairly handy and can use a welder they're fairly easy to make but can be a bit time consuming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
finreid Posted April 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2012 thanks TEH, thats really helpful! have you got the photos which the instrcutions relate too by any chance? will be a nice little project, just need to find the time now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Essex Hunter Posted April 8, 2012 Report Share Posted April 8, 2012 thanks TEH, thats really helpful! have you got the photos which the instrcutions relate too by any chance? will be a nice little project, just need to find the time now! Click on this http://s856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/TheEssexHunter/rotary/ and it should take you to the pictures! Any ?'s drop me a line TEH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eggjr0151 Posted April 8, 2012 Report Share Posted April 8, 2012 useing the wiper motor will it go roung 360 or will it only travel part way backward and forward Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Essex Hunter Posted April 8, 2012 Report Share Posted April 8, 2012 useing the wiper motor will it go roung 360 or will it only travel part way backward and forward The motor goes around!! It is the linkages that operate the wiper arms! And the pigeons will land when you.....open your flask TEH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eggjr0151 Posted April 8, 2012 Report Share Posted April 8, 2012 o thanks might have a go at makeing one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tan Posted April 20, 2012 Report Share Posted April 20, 2012 useing the wiper motor will it go roung 360 or will it only travel part way backward and forward make sure it front motor not back one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPARKIE Posted May 20, 2012 Report Share Posted May 20, 2012 ford fiesta and escorts have a good size motor i was in the scrappy last week and a pair of blokes in cammo had a wheel barrow full of ford front windscreen motors. only one thing there being used for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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