General Rimfire Cleaning

[Brad93]

Hi all, so with my FAC application going through its paces, I looked at some guns yesterday, see a few I liked and then started thinking about everything else I would need.

 

The main thing on my mind is cleaning, specifically of the .17HMR. I've read quite a few forum posts and articles and I've come to the conclusion that a boresnake is no good, and I need to get some proper cleaning gear.

 

Therefore I'm thinking of getting one of these http://www.midwayuk.com/apps/eproductpage.exe/ShowProduct?saleitemid=167481 as ive heard from numerous people they are the thing to have.

 

I've also read you must not pull the brush back through the bore? I guess you have to then screw the brush off the rod when you get to the end of the barrel?

 

Secondly, I have no idea what patches or cleaner to use? I hear I would need a cleaner that dissolves copper deposits and powder deposits and one that does not attack nylon IRO the above rod.

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated as I've only had air rifles and shotguns to clean before

 

 

Regards

 

Brad

[Chr15j]

Simple answer, don't clean a rimfire! Well certainly not a .22LR

Edited April 21, 2012 by Chr15j

[chalkyw]

Despite all the myths about not not cleaning / cleaning rimfires ?

 

If you dont clean the .17HMR your barrell will corrode from the inside out ! in a very short period of time.

 

You need a PARKER HALE rod teflon coated platic sleeve to protect the barrell, a .17 Jag a .17 wire Brush and some .17 cloth patches.

 

Believe it or not on the range i have had improved performance cleaning after 25 rnds, who ever gave you the advice about reaming the brush back thro the barrell clearly knows what they are on about,

 

This is what i do

Brush thro & take it off repeat 3 or 4 times, then put some solvent on a patch and using the jag dope the barrell, flip over to the clean side and repeat with fresh patches until the patches are clean.

 

Put another two thro dry to take the solvent from the twists then oil up a patch and push thro twice

 

use a clean one and push thro once to take the excess out of the barrell, its not a direct science, i made that up myself and it works for me,

 

I clean my .22LR every time i use it.

[apache]

Don't waste your money and time cleaning it. I have had ~1500 rounds through mine and it's had a boresnake through maybe half a dozen times (only if it's got wet). I have a cleaning rod brand new and unused. It can still do a 50 yard group with every shot in the bull, and I am no marksman. How much more accurate do you want the bloody thing? I only keep the rod in case I get something stuck down there!

 

Clean the moderator couple of times per year.

 

Don't know anyone who regularly cleans theirs and none of them have rapidly corroded!

[telf]

i clean my 22 and 17 after every outing including the mod on the 17 as it is a very dirty round,i use a rod and patches on them both and then when i go out again fire 2 or3 rounds just to warm/lube the barrel,this works for me but everyone to there own

atb dave

[Gimlet]

My HW HMR certainly needs cleaning. Groups open up to 2" at 100 yds after a 100 rounds if I don't. A thorough clean though and it puts them on top of each other again with no change of zero and no shooting in. I find I need to finish with a few pulls of a bore snake to make sure theres no oil left in the bore which is what causes the 'shooting in' business.

Be careful which rod and make of tools you buy. The threads are not standardised and some rods will only accept certain tools. I bought a Bore Tech rod, and very nice it is, but it has a female thread and only accepts male threaded Tetra tools, which I don't think are much good - the bronze brush doesn't last more than two cleans. I prefer Bisley.

And don't think a nice .17 rod will do for your .22 as well. The ******** have thought of that and the threads are different to make you buy two different kits. Check you can get replacement tools easily for the kit you've got in mind.

[JRDS]

Despite all the myths about not not cleaning / cleaning rimfires ?

 

If you dont clean the .17HMR your barrell will corrode from the inside out ! in a very short period of time.

 

You need a PARKER HALE rod teflon coated platic sleeve to protect the barrell, a .17 Jag a .17 wire Brush and some .17 cloth patches.

 

Believe it or not on the range i have had improved performance cleaning after 25 rnds, who ever gave you the advice about reaming the brush back thro the barrell clearly knows what they are on about,

 

This is what i do

Brush thro & take it off repeat 3 or 4 times, then put some solvent on a patch and using the jag dope the barrell, flip over to the clean side and repeat with fresh patches until the patches are clean.

 

Put another two thro dry to take the solvent from the twists then oil up a patch and push thro twice

 

use a clean one and push thro once to take the excess out of the barrell, its not a direct science, i made that up myself and it works for me,

 

I clean my .22LR every time i use it.

 

Modern powders are not corrosive!! Just don't store it with the Moderator on. I use a Bore Snake and they are great pieces of kit, just make sure when the brush comes out of the muzzle you pull it central to the Bore.

Edited April 22, 2012 by JRDS

[Monkey Nuts]

As everyone has said above we are all different when it comes to cleaning our rimfires. Personally, I boresnake every 50-100 rounds and brush/patch clean every 300 or so. I do have to put about 10 rounds through them after a deep clean to get them grouping right again regardless of how many dry patches i run down the barrel after cleaning with oil though.

[Dekers]

This subject goes round and round and there are plenty of views and opinions.

 

I cut my teeth on target work many years ago and cleaning was essential, it works, clean GOOD barrels are the best.

 

The HMR are copper coated, very small and relatively fast, cleaning PROPERLY will keep them accurate and make them last. It seems many are happy with the accuracy with little or no cleaning and not many will have completely screwed the barrel either. If you clean it, which I personally suggest, then do it PROPERLY, any suggestion of it not shooting accurately for 10-20 or even 50 rounds after a clean means you didn't clean it, you simply gave it a quick once over, raised fouling and left the barrel WORSE than when you started, that's the root of all these never clean a HMR it always takes loads of ammo to get the zero back suggestions. Not true, CLEAN it and it will be accurate.

 

Similar story with the WMR.

 

The .22lr if used as a dedicated lead only bullet rifle will not need than much cleaning, but it will still reward you in the long term to look after your rifle!

 

[roundy]

Why would a bore-snake be no good on a HMR?!?

[Gimlet]

Why would a bore-snake be no good on a HMR?!?

 

HMRs seem to produce very tough residue and I don't think snakes can get right into the fine rifling to shift it. It takes a bronze brush.

 

I do use a clean bore snake to finish mine off and make sure there's not a hint of oil or solvent left in there. I can pull patches through all night after they've come clean but the gun won't return to zero. It does after a few finishing pulls with a boresnake. I'm assuming the huge surface area of the snake is getting all the oil film off and that's what makes the difference.

Edited April 23, 2012 by Gimlet

[flyshooter]

Hi all, so with my FAC application going through its paces, I looked at some guns yesterday, see a few I liked and then started thinking about everything else I would need.

 

The main thing on my mind is cleaning, specifically of the .17HMR. I've read quite a few forum posts and articles and I've come to the conclusion that a boresnake is no good, and I need to get some proper cleaning gear.

 

Therefore I'm thinking of getting one of these http://www.midwayuk.com/apps/eproductpage.exe/ShowProduct?saleitemid=167481 as ive heard from numerous people they are the thing to have.

 

I've also read you must not pull the brush back through the bore? I guess you have to then screw the brush off the rod when you get to the end of the barrel?

 

Secondly, I have no idea what patches or cleaner to use? I hear I would need a cleaner that dissolves copper deposits and powder deposits and one that does not attack nylon IRO the above rod.

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated as I've only had air rifles and shotguns to clean before

 

 

Regards

 

Brad

Brad, the cleaning rod you suggest has a revolveing handle like the one I have, as the brush, or jag, is pushed down the bore it will twist as it goes down, and twist as it is pulled back, hence I can see no reason the rod ends have to be removed at the muzzel end each time (other posters please correct me if I am wrong) I have just spent a couple of hours brushing, patching and finished with a bore snake, my zero has all ways been off after a cleaning but as latter posts might suggest, perhaps I have not taken as much care in cleaning the 17 as I do with my air rifle or shot gun. It will be interesting to see the results if only the rain stops, keep well, Gel.