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Zapp
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  • 1 month later...
Guest cookoff013

ok, guys,

 

went on a shopping spree.

got the norfolknog brewing kit, its on the go at the moment. as well as the ingredients for another super stout.

this will be my first experiment with safale05 yeast, traditionally used for american dry beers. should produce a very nice clean malt tasting brew.

will let you know how it goes.

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Yeast plays a big part in the end result of any beer.

 

US05 is a very clean, neutral yeast and will enhance the hop profile rather than the malt. S04 gives more of a buttery/smooth taste to the beer and takes away the hopiness to an extent.

 

Different yeasts are just that - they are different. Whether the beer is better of worse is down to personal preference. I tend to use Nottingham yeast for most beers as it is a neutral yeast, much like US05.

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ok, guys,

 

went on a shopping spree.

got the norfolknog brewing kit, its on the go at the moment. as well as the ingredients for another super stout.

this will be my first experiment with safale05 yeast, traditionally used for american dry beers. should produce a very nice clean malt tasting brew.

will let you know how it goes.

 

Good yeast US05 use it myself in IPA's and pale ales...

 

 

I'll be interested to see what you think of the S04, I've tried a couple of fairly simple brews with it that I've tried with other yeasts and was surprised how 'zingingly' crisp it was.

 

 

My mainstay is S04 use it more than any other yeast in everything from ales to stouts.

Edited by The Shootist
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One thing about S05 is that it can take a very long time to drop out of suspension in a cask.

 

I get around this when using it by taking a sachet of unflavoured gelatin (from the baking aisle in any supermarket), which I then add to 100-200ml of cold water in a small pan and then leave it for 15 mins.

 

After 15 mins, I turn on the heat and, whilst stirring all the time, bring it to exactly 80 degrees C, and then take it straight off the heat. This sterilises it without denaturing the gelatin.

 

I then add this solution to the keg with my priming solution and rack the beer in on top as normal, and hey presto, crystal clear beer in about 3 days (it will still need the normal amount of time to condition though, sadly)

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Guest cookoff013

yeah, i heard that the yeast takes ages to drop out, but i`ve the time.

i was just interested in having a clean crispy brew, the stout kits are not really hoppy, and the darker roasted grains offer alot of flavour.

 

i have been using nottingham for nearly all brews, so this will be the first proper "using a different yeast."

 

i`ll be bottling, but i think it will still take a while to clear.

 

what fun !

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S05 clears better in the bottle than it does in a cask - there is less distance for it to fall. I found that it packed down quite well too, but then I did give it 8 weeks in the bottle.

 

If you have two fermenters there is nothing to stop you gelatining in one and then racking to another to minimise the yeast for bottling.

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Zapp, have you used isinglass finings? I mainly use S05 but I tend not to use finings at home as the beer isn;'t really going anywhere so I'm happy to let it settle naturally whether it is in a keg or a cask. But if I cask up some beer to take somewhere else, I use isinglass and I think it's superb. It will allow the beer to clear 3 or 4 times before it loses the charge which causes the particles to settle so it's really useful if the cask is going to get moved about a bit.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest cookoff013

well, i've been shopping again, and i got the bargin of the century. went into my not so local wilkinsons.

they have 2 tin kits available for only £16

 

http://www.wilkinsonplus.com/search?q=*&parentCategoryRef=70&pdxtbrandn=Wilko&setpagenum=6&perpage=12

 

thats 40p a pint for a 2 tin kit, that is great value. i bought the real ale and golden ale.

localy a wherry is £28.99

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well, i've been shopping again, and i got the bargin of the century. went into my not so local wilkinsons.

they have 2 tin kits available for only £16

 

http://www.wilkinson...um=6&perpage=12

 

thats 40p a pint for a 2 tin kit, that is great value. i bought the real ale and golden ale.

localy a wherry is £28.99

 

cracking find that...quite a few bits are cheaper than the brew centre I use

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  • 4 weeks later...

I've been slowly building a new brewery set up for ages. Boiler is done, mash tun is done and I've now eventually finished my hot liquor tank. It'll be gas heated to save faffing about with electric elements.

 

100l stainless pot fitted with ball valve tap and sight tube - the hlt will sit at high level (7ft) in my garage and will be plumbed in so the sight tube is so I can fill it from ground level without having to climb up to see how much water it needs

 

IMAG0222_zpsa1485f48.jpg

 

Close up of the sight tube fitting - it's a pneumatic push cinnector elbow with a poly carbonate tube

 

IMAG0224_zps3108903a.jpg

 

On the inside of the tap, there's a dip tube to make sure the tank can drain all the way to the bottom. The tap is 5cm or so above the base of the tank but will drain via a syphon so it will completely empty the tank

 

IMAG0221_zps24f190f6.jpg

 

Hopefully, just a little bit more fettling and I'll be good to go

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cool,

i`m thinking about going brew in bag.... just need to look into it more.... sober.

 

Hi mate,

 

I've posted this link earlier in the thread but it's easily missed, I brew BIAB ( brew in a bag) http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=13457&hilit=gail+porter this is a brew day I had a couple of years ago with pictures to explain the process.

 

It is a viable way into all grain brewing if you are on a budget as you only use one vessel.

 

You also start with the total volume of water used so no need to sparge, as long as you work out losses before you start as in, loss to grain/hop absorbtion, boil off you will hit the mark every time pretty much.

 

I've never had any issue with hitting the gravity I'm after, I think maybe because the mash is quite loose due to the large volume of water then all the sugars and good stuff get washed out nicely.

 

Well worth a try, people can't believe it is home brewed as often it's better than what you'll get in a pub :beer:

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest cookoff013

so guys, i`d like to update you on the beers i`ve been producing.

 

first, i thought i`d mullerd a batch of beer, it was using s05 and was an experiment, a kit brew stout with 1kg of dark spraymalt added. s05 is a real workhorse. OMG i thought the fermenter was going to take off ! bottle conditioned, s05 drops like a rock. as for the taste, after 3-4 weeks, kinda rubbish, i thought i was stuck with it. then i left it for a good while, while i "look" at some norfolk NOG i previously bottled.

 

then after alot of time, got the courage to try it again, turned out to be a very crispy dry beer. not unpleasent, very soft palate, doesnt really tick all the beer boxes, but its crisp, unusually clean.

 

my brewing friend tried a few them, he was quite positive.

 

i`ve started a wilko 2 can kit, with some nottingham. went off like a rocket. bottle soon.

 

next projects. brewbag.

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next projects. brewbag.

 

Hi mate,

 

if you need a big stock pot for BIAB either google or ebay bergland24_france it's a french supplier of catering equipment, including stainless steel stock pots anywhere from 20l to 100l in capacity, typically a 50l one would cost about £40-£45 delivered to the uk they're loads cheaper than any UK based stuff I've seen. Don't be put off by the fact they are in france or on ebay, if you try and order one they email you and organise it all for you.

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