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so you dont use it and aint a maths expert, ok fine! thats how i do it and use it and it seems to work. i guess the important thing is to compare them all the same way, i aint about to argue with only an o level maths

 

Keep your hair on Kent, I was just pointing it out for the benefit of anyone who wanted to compare their results with published factory figures.

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The annealing thing is just something I have gravitated to as brass prices have climbed almost as precipitously as lead. When I began loading we shot the case 3-5 times and discarded it. Of course we full length sized each time and work hardened the case pretty quickly. In the fast steppers like the Swift or .204,.17 Rem/Pred, 20 Practical family neck sizing and annealing have extended case life and provided consistent neck tension for my reloads. It isn't really that complicated and in my opinion does increase accuracy---- just another small thing in a dozen contributors.

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The annealing thing is just something I have gravitated to as brass prices have climbed almost as precipitously as lead. When I began loading we shot the case 3-5 times and discarded it. Of course we full length sized each time and work hardened the case pretty quickly. In the fast steppers like the Swift or .204,.17 Rem/Pred, 20 Practical family neck sizing and annealing have extended case life and provided consistent neck tension for my reloads. It isn't really that complicated and in my opinion does increase accuracy---- just another small thing in a dozen contributors.

I feel it might contribute to secondary issues if the temp isn't under perfect control. How do you acomlish this goal?

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I feel it might contribute to secondary issues if the temp isn't under perfect control. How do you acomlish this goal?

 

You are quite astute in your observation Kent that like some things too much is worse than not enough. Heating brass to cherry red is one of those things that some advocate and is very wrong. I try to replicate the color you will see on the necks of factory annealed cases such as the .17 Rem or the .260 Rem. I use a propane bottle gas torch and adjust the flame to a low setting, I roll the case NECK in the edge of the flame until I see the color begin to creep down to the bottleneck---this takes all of about 5 seconds. I drop the casing into a can of water (although not necessary I am told, but better than on the floor)

By holding the casing in the fingers you will not surpass the temp needed to soften the web---I promise.

I have annealed hundreds by this method and my Swift brass is on its umteenth reloading---I try to anneal after 3 loadings. Just be sure cases are completely dry inside before recharging.

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  • 11 months later...

Doesn't mess about does it? Changing scopes around and zeroing the Hornet after fitting a different one. Opened up at 70 yards to make sure I was in the ballpark and with 5 shots I got a virtually straight line dropping down from the first, the 5th being 2" below the 1st. The different scope could be a red herring as it was OK on another rifle, but.....? Pretty sure it's not the ammo. Stop panicking and think. Hang on, I had some trouble doing a check zero a couple of months back perhaps I didn't sort it properly as I haven't used the rifle since - and I had trouble with the LR as well. I'd lost the barrel clearance on the LR which was quickly resolved but the Hornet is a falling block Ruger #1 so not quite straight forward. My arms are telling me that I must have sanded off about half a pound of wood but it was worth it as all is now well. The barrel still touches the wood at the front of the fore-end but that is the design so the required clearance must be unsighted; I know not.

 

The rifles are stored in a bungalow loft conversion which if you do not open up the dormers gets very, very hot. I'm now wondering if the cabinet turned into an oven and which adversely affected the wood. Any thoughts on this, guys?

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