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witch cases reload


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heard that som of them split when crimping just wondering witch one will crimp without splitting. what cases do you reload?

 

I tend to get my cases out of the DTL stands because I can get a good amount of quality cases easily.

 

In 12 gauge I personally use RC2's as much as possible mainly because I use an auto in the field and the pale blue shells are easy to spot once ejected for collection, and they crimp very well. Plus some maroon ones I can't recall the name of right now. Black Gold, White Gold etc are all OK too.

 

For 20 gauge, due to the lack of choice, I will use anything that doesn't have tiny splits in the original crimp lines when checked from the inside lest they end up looking like trumpets once refilled.

 

Anything with too high a brass base can be a pain for resizing even if they look expensive. Personally I don't like Eley Olympics because I have had the brass base separate from the plastic.

Edited by sitsinhedges
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I help myselt to Winchester Premier green carts from the clay shoot.bins.

 

Gamebore white gold reload well.

 

I have some Lyvale ones that reload well too.

 

When you start your crimp on the lee make sure one of the points faces dead centre of the square bar to the left of the station. This starts the crimp in exactly the same place as it was when factory loaded.

 

Final crimp lift turn 45 degrees and bring the crimper down again lift 45 degrees down again. I find if you just crimp once it makes it look messy.

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Most will reload but I've found so far;

 

Cases that feel slightly softer (kinda rubbery) work best and last longest.

 

Some cartridges are fine except the primers are so loose that they fall out in your pocket (lyalvale, gamebore and dan arms most noticeably iirc) so that's something to watch out for.

 

I squash the crimped part of each empty between my finger and thumb (the top 10mm or so) a little and roll it, this seems a quick and reliable way to see if the crimp's had it - you'll hear or see the split.

 

I find most cartridges will reload three times before they're knackered, I put a tick on them with a permanent marker each time I load them and throw them away when they get the third load (after use obviously).

 

Cartridges that are smooth (no corrugations) load best and those with deep corrugations a close second but the softer plastics are very good too.

 

Just my opinions though, get a selection and see what works best for you. Careful with fiocchi empties; some have a smaller primer than usual.

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Most will reload but I've found so far;

 

Cases that feel slightly softer (kinda rubbery) work best and last longest.

 

Some cartridges are fine except the primers are so loose that they fall out in your pocket (lyalvale, gamebore and dan arms most noticeably iirc) so that's something to watch out for.

 

I squash the crimped part of each empty between my finger and thumb (the top 10mm or so) a little and roll it, this seems a quick and reliable way to see if the crimp's had it - you'll hear or see the split.

 

I find most cartridges will reload three times before they're knackered, I put a tick on them with a permanent marker each time I load them and throw them away when they get the third load (after use obviously).

 

Cartridges that are smooth (no corrugations) load best and those with deep corrugations a close second but the softer plastics are very good too.

 

Just my opinions though, get a selection and see what works best for you. Careful with fiocchi empties; some have a smaller primer than usual.

 

I heard the likes of Rem and other US based primers were larger than their european counterparts and once you use a US primer the hole is too large for the euro ones.

 

I have loaded gamebore with Fio and Cheddite primers and they seemed fine. I have a LOAD of fiocchi ready primed hulls with fio primers and they reload fine also. At the moment my components are limited to 3 primer types and they all seemed fine with Gamebore hulls. The problem I had with Lyvale hulls was deforming the bases while removing the spent primers :no:

 

Other than that they have been fine. I also go for softer plastic hulls as some are so hard they split while trying to crimp. Had 9 in a batch of 25 split "eley iirc"

 

 

 

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I help myselt to Winchester Premier green carts from the clay shoot.bins.

 

Gamebore white gold reload well.

 

I have some Lyvale ones that reload well too.

 

When you start your crimp on the lee make sure one of the points faces dead centre of the square bar to the left of the station. This starts the crimp in exactly the same place as it was when factory loaded.

 

Final crimp lift turn 45 degrees and bring the crimper down again lift 45 degrees down again. I find if you just crimp once it makes it look messy.

good tip that mate cheers

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After a while, it will dawn on you that Cheddite primers WILL be loose in a MAXAM primer pocket.

Fiocchi, Martignoni and Maxam primers are a few thou 'fatter'.

 

Ahh so is it the European primers that were larger than the US ones then? I did notice a few other hull types I tried the Ched primers almost fell in.

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Ahh so is it the European primers that were larger than the US ones then? I did notice a few other hull types I tried the Ched primers almost fell in.

 

No, Cheddite are smaller that Fiocchi for example but both european. It just comes down to brand rather than country I think, and what the shell has been fitted with previously.

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I quite fancy one of those brass adapters though :yes: :yes: ???

Hi Lord geordie what brass adapter is this ? . I have a lee load all and had to alter it slightly to get a good crimp on but they are sometimes still not brill. And had the same problem with the primers falling out with lyalvale cases with cheddite cx2000primers . But most all gamebore load fine and some hull cases. But i have only loaded up 1oz and a hand full of 11/6oz but looking to do some 32gr lead and steel 70mmfor duck and some 3" steel for geese so looking for data then get the stuff.

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Guest cookoff013

i buy new cheddite 70mm. i adjusted the crimp so it gives "as factory" look. it actually looks as factory for some, but others the crimp is good enough.

i even managet to get rid of the slight octagonaling and slight "crowning".

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I quite fancy one of those brass adapters though :yes: :yes: ???

Hi Lord geordie what brass adapter is this ? . I have a lee load all and had to alter it slightly to get a good crimp on but they are sometimes still not brill. And had the same problem with the primers falling out with lyalvale cases with cheddite cx2000primers . But most all gamebore load fine and some hull cases. But i have only loaded up 1oz and a hand full of 11/6oz but looking to do some 32gr lead and steel 70mmfor duck and some 3" steel for geese so looking for data then get the stuff.

 

I was directed to this by a member of the forum

 

http://www.precisionreloading.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PRE&Product_Code=MMSB4112&Category_Code=MISC_MEC_ACCESS

 

I am going to order one and hopefully with a little common sense and a little effort make.a real nice crimp without bulging the cadtridge.

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Geordie have you thought about taking a mm off the bottom of the final crimp thus alowing it to crimp a little deeper. I have 2 lower parts for my loader and one was shorter so i put that on and sorted the crimps out but like you said in another post you have to rotate your shell at final crimp. I cut some new cases what i got from clay and game and loaded them up all look nice and neat

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Guest cookoff013

what adjustments did you make to help the crimp cookoff?

i backed off the pre-crimp, it folded too deep and produced slight octagonal and crowned crimps. when precrimping new cases it pays to stress the plastic alittle by just holding the precrimp just a little longer. mecs are usually set up to run straight away. however both of mine wasnot set up. i mesured with a micrometer my setting so can strip and clean the machine, and have it running perfect straight away. (i`ve srtipped it twice.)

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