shoot57 Posted November 22, 2012 Report Share Posted November 22, 2012 just trying to zero my rcbs 505 scale and noticed that i set the zero and every time i tap the beam the pointer never comes to rest in the same place, any suggestions on why this is happening? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cambsman Posted November 22, 2012 Report Share Posted November 22, 2012 Because you are tapping the beam?...... I'll get my coat............ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoot57 Posted November 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2012 ok, just tried blowing on the beam, same result Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blunderbuss Posted November 22, 2012 Report Share Posted November 22, 2012 Is the blade at the end of the beam running centrally in the magnetic damper slot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoot57 Posted November 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2012 no not dead centre, its closer to the pointer end of the slot, i would say a 1 ml gap and a 3 ml gap the pan side approx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Floating Chamber Posted November 22, 2012 Report Share Posted November 22, 2012 Are the agate bearings clean? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redgum Posted November 22, 2012 Report Share Posted November 22, 2012 Hate to state the obvious, is it on a level surface,give the bearings a little dust with a small paint brush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1066 Posted November 22, 2012 Report Share Posted November 22, 2012 If you're sure the damper isn't actually touching the bodywork then it shouldn't be a problem, just check that there are no hairs of wirewool in the slot that the magnets have picked up. The bearings need to be clean and should be free to wobble about, if your not happy with them, take them out and give them a clean is some sort of spirit and a toothbrush, also clean the bearing housings. Have a look at the knife edges through a glass, they should be sharp with no dull areas or burrs, also the ends should come to a sharp point, inline with the knife edge. If they are dull then a very careful dressing with some 1200 grade wet &dry will do the trick. I use it stuck to a flat strip of metal with double sided tape to make a small "file". Have a look at the little wire loop where the pan hangs, it should be free to swing, right in the middle of the tiny knife edges there. Here's a video I made about tuning up the RCBS scales: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sackot Posted November 23, 2012 Report Share Posted November 23, 2012 Nice video-- can you tell us what the deal with your improved pan-hanger is? I'm interested in the OP's problem because I have one quite similar with my 505 when used with your trickler. I will set it to throw a charge, and 9 times out of 10 it will be spot on, and the other time significantly over. I've watched it do this, and the symptom is that when the quantity is approached, the beam hesitates to lift from the bottom, then moves up sharply and overshoots. It's behaving as though there is some friction there, but in my case, not always. I looked at all the obvious things but was never able to see anything wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vince Green Posted November 23, 2012 Report Share Posted November 23, 2012 I have had some funny problems in the past that has been down to a tiny bit of grit in the V on which it pivots. Other than that there are no moving parts that touch so there's not a lot else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1066 Posted November 23, 2012 Report Share Posted November 23, 2012 (edited) Nice video-- can you tell us what the deal with your improved pan-hanger is? I'm interested in the OP's problem because I have one quite similar with my 505 when used with your trickler. I will set it to throw a charge, and 9 times out of 10 it will be spot on, and the other time significantly over. I've watched it do this, and the symptom is that when the quantity is approached, the beam hesitates to lift from the bottom, then moves up sharply and overshoots. It's behaving as though there is some friction there, but in my case, not always. I looked at all the obvious things but was never able to see anything wrong. Ahh!. Stuck at the bottom syndrome. This happens on a few scales where the beam is a little "top heavy". The way to fix this is to stop the damper blade bottoming right out in the damper slot. I place a small strip of felt or even polystyrene in the bottom of the slot, only about 1-2mm thick to act as a buffer. This also stops the damper blade crashing down every time you remove the pan - It sounds better, feels better and works better. Here's my idea about the pan hanger. http://img.photobuck...tirup070510.jpg Dull knife edge. Easily fixed. http://img.photobuck.../Knifeedge2.jpg Chipped knife edge. Not easily fixed. http://img.photobuck.../Knifeedge1.jpg Edited November 23, 2012 by 1066 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoot57 Posted November 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2012 thanks for the feedback and tips, on checking with a spirit level i found that the surface my scale was on was not quite level, so moving to a level surface seems to have cured the problem. it seems strange that such a small change in angle causes this problem as you adjust the level for a start. so thanks redgum for stating the obvious, and thanks 1066 for your pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sackot Posted November 26, 2012 Report Share Posted November 26, 2012 Ahh!. Stuck at the bottom syndrome. This happens on a few scales where the beam is a little "top heavy". The way to fix this is to stop the damper blade bottoming right out in the damper slot. I place a small strip of felt or even polystyrene in the bottom of the slot, only about 1-2mm thick to act as a buffer. This also stops the damper blade crashing down every time you remove the pan - It sounds better, feels better and works better. Here's my idea about the pan hanger. http://img.photobuck...tirup070510.jpg Dull knife edge. Easily fixed. http://img.photobuck.../Knifeedge2.jpg Chipped knife edge. Not easily fixed. http://img.photobuck.../Knifeedge1.jpg "stuck at the bottom syndrome"! I know what to call it now. Thanks for that 1066, that sounds exactly right and the fix easy to try-- I'll give it a go next session. Making a replacement loop looks slightly more tricky, but I'll see what I can do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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