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If we could bow hunt who would own a bow


sirgoldalot
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Bow hunting was banned in the uk in 1965, technology materials and machinery have improved archery products to such a high level of accuracy they are not far off rifles at close ranges in the right hands.. they are more hands on though than any rifle and it takes time and muscle memory to kick in to be competent with a modern compound.. also acknowledge of the workings as they have to be tuned a little like a car to get the timings right..

Edited by sirgoldalot
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No.. a kiss button is recurve terminology and kit (but some compound shooters use them to ensure a consistent anchor point) Remember, with a recurve or longbow you could, in theory, keep pulling the string untill the limbs snapped... there is no 'wall' (will explain later) so.. to get a consistent point of impact, one needs to make sure that 1. the bow is drawn to EXACTLY the same point each time and 2. the head and eye are in EXACTLY the same position each time.. small variations in either will mean a moving POI.. thing of having a rifle with ONLY a foresight... it wouldbe almost impossible to get consistency...

 

So.. the kiss button is a small plastic disc attached to the string that contacts with some point of the mouth.. it doesn't matter where on the mouth as long as it is the same place each time, that helps ensure that the head and eye is in the same spot each time and also gives a 'gross' indication when the correct draw is being reached.. A clicker on the arrow rest gives the 'fine' indication of correct draw.. it is usually a small piece of plastic or metal that rides along the top of the arrow and 'falls off' the end making a clicking noise when the arrow reaces a certain point... the idea is to release as soon as the click is heard or felt...

 

so.. the idea is that consistent head/string/sight alignment and consistent draw can be achieved..

 

Now.. with a compound there is a 'let off' and a 'wall' when youdraw, the cams and pulleys act to reduce the weight being held at full draw.. so for example my 60lb bow is only 15LB at full draw meaning I can hold it much longer.. I would be able to hold 60 at full draw for only a few seconds without wobbling.. 15lb.. and it is the weight out front that becomes the issue but means holding for much longer is possible..

 

Most compound bows have 'peep sights' which are a small disc with an apperture inserted between the fibres of the bow string.. this acts like the rear sight of iron sights on a rifle and ensures consistent alignment.. it also means that a kiss button or similar is redundant as alignment is all but assured, however most shooters also like to have the string contacting the face in the same place on the face at full draw just to be sure.. modern sights with the IQ system almost make the peep redundant but even when used with a peep ensure that there is never any torsion going on at the bow and again assuring consistency.. peep sights/IQ sight systems/spirit levels... the accuracy and consistency achieved is quite staggering.. at 15 yard (all I have in my garden) if I shoot 5 arrows at the same spot on my foam block they are all trying to get in the same hole thus bending the shafts making extraction a nightmare! I always shoot at different spots now!!!

 

Clickers are completely unecessary as it is not possible to over draw a compound... the wall is the wall and once you hit it you cant draw any further.

 

 

In the US it is still referred to as a kisser. Most guys have moved away from the big plastic disc version as weight on the string slows down the arrow speeds, but even if it is a ball tied onto the string or a tiny plastic nub, they call it a kisser or kisser button.

 

You CAN overdraw a compound, depending on the bow. Some have a hard wall that you can pull back into or they have draw stops built into the cams which give a hard stop. Some have a soft or mushy back walls (a lot of target bows in fact) that let you overdraw if you're not careful. My last bow had a draw stop, my dad's has a hard wall because of the cam design. Both of our bows previous were much softer, so peep/kisser/grip consistency were more important to pay attention to.

 

rick

Edited by casts_by_fly
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In the US it is still referred to as a kisser. Most guys have moved away from the big plastic disc version as weight on the string slows down the arrow speeds, but even if it is a ball tied onto the string or a tiny plastic nub, they call it a kisser or kisser button.

 

You CAN overdraw a compound, depending on the bow. Some have a hard wall that you can pull back into or they have draw stops built into the cams which give a hard stop. Some have a soft or mushy back walls (a lot of target bows in fact) that let you overdraw if you're not careful. My last bow had a draw stop, my dad's has a hard wall because of the cam design. Both of our bows previous were much softer, so peep/kisser/grip consistency were more important to pay attention to.

 

rick

 

 

There ya go.. didn't know that.. my Hoyt has a hard wall... and it really is like hitting one when you reach it..

Your response was a bit more detailed tho - I have only used a compound once and decided it was cheating lol! The compound archers at my club spent more time tinkering with screw on dangly bits and stringy things than they did shooting lol!

That's half the fun... you can't beat screw on dangly bits! :lol::lol::lol:

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ye older compound with round wheels had a power valley that you had to find...shoot up the front wall of the valley it would snatch the arrow...at the back of the valley or wall would wallow then snatch...in the middle of the valley well thats the sweet spot... it was some times like finding a womans sweet spot each bow was slightly different...i wonder if thats why my wife thinks I'm a wonderful lover....lol :whistling:

Edited by sirgoldalot
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ye older compound with round wheels had a power valley that you had to find...shoot up the front wall of the valley it would snatch the arrow...at the back of the valley or wall would wallow then snatch...in the middle of the valley well thats the sweet spot... it was some times like finding a womans sweet spot each bow was slightly different...i wonder if thats why my wife thinks I'm a wonderful lover....lol :whistling:

She likes a perfectly times release from the sweet spot then...

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that's not far from what I'd term a perfect hunting setup, and certainly about what I'd be looking for in one for myself. It is a pretty fast bow that can throw around heavy arrows pretty quickly, cut on contact broadheads (look like the 125 g montecs), and a good stiff carbon shaft to hold it all together. Pigs are notoriously difficult to pass through and considering he clipped the leg bone on the way in he did well to nearly bury the arrow. Notice on the impala that he zipped straight through without the arrow really slowing down. He probably had a hard time finding the arrow afterwards given how fast it went through and the thick brush behind it.

 

thanks

rick

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Is it expensive to get involved on a 'good' but not professional level? It is a sport I have had some interest in since childhood,but obviously shooting is my passion.Time is obviously a factor as I shoot right through the shooting season, but summer months are pretty quiet.There is a good club within 20 minutes of me apparently.

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Is it expensive to get involved on a 'good' but not professional level? It is a sport I have had some interest in since childhood,but obviously shooting is my passion.Time is obviously a factor as I shoot right through the shooting season, but summer months are pretty quiet.There is a good club within 20 minutes of me apparently.

Nice thing about it is.. if you have a half decent back garden, you don't need a club :-)

 

It's like anything else, you can spend as much or as little as you want on it.. have a mooch on ebay.. Your big 2 manufacturers are Matthews and Hoyt.. you won't go wrong with either of them..

 

Fit is crucial though so unless you know your draw length etc.. may be worth paying a vistit to Merlin Archery or Bowsports.. they both have good online presence too

 

I really fancy a Hoyt carbon matrix but need to replenish my shooting gear before I start thinking about new bows!

Edited by Vipa
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Is it expensive to get involved on a 'good' but not professional level? It is a sport I have had some interest in since childhood,but obviously shooting is my passion.Time is obviously a factor as I shoot right through the shooting season, but summer months are pretty quiet.There is a good club within 20 minutes of me apparently.

It can become very very expensive, but doesn't have to. My recurve set was somewhere in the region of £3k but that was top end kit.

 

You can pay £40 for an arrow shaft, £600 for a riser and £400 for a sight but don't have to to have fun!

 

I do miss my kit...

 

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You can see the clicker I referred to earlier on the last pic

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Been out this evening, got a release aid and some arrows, called in at my old club and saw a LOT of new faces but was quite pleased to find a several people knew who I was and I didn't have bloody clue who they were, ahhhh, just like the good old days.

now for the muscle work....lol

 

i have not taken mine out of the case since april.....tommorow it gets a work out... new house garden i can just get 18 yards if I'm against the rear gate....NFAS membership still valid for this year... late entry hunt for opens underway...

Edited by sirgoldalot
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Is it expensive to get involved on a 'good' but not professional level? It is a sport I have had some interest in since childhood,but obviously shooting is my passion.Time is obviously a factor as I shoot right through the shooting season, but summer months are pretty quiet.There is a good club within 20 minutes of me apparently.

 

 

As said, it depends on how far down the rabbit hole you want to go. Certainly in the US, used is your friend. Archers are well know to have GAS- gear aquisition syndrome. And manufacurers are always coming out with something shiny and new. You can save quite a bit by buying a 1 year old bow with light use. The same goes for accessories. Also, manufacurers are coming out with ready to hunt packages which have surprisingly good setups to them. That doesn't help here as you're not hunting and a dedicated paper or 3D/field rig would be a little different, but it means that a full setup doesn't have to cost an arm and a leg. And if you're careful with your gear you can shoot it a LOT without wearing things out. If you're shooting strictly targets and not stacking arrows then you really won't have any ongoing outlay aside from the occasional nock or fletching.

 

thanks

rick

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As said, it depends on how far down the rabbit hole you want to go. Certainly in the US, used is your friend. Archers are well know to have GAS- gear aquisition syndrome. And manufacurers are always coming out with something shiny and new. You can save quite a bit by buying a 1 year old bow with light use. The same goes for accessories. Also, manufacurers are coming out with ready to hunt packages which have surprisingly good setups to them. That doesn't help here as you're not hunting and a dedicated paper or 3D/field rig would be a little different, but it means that a full setup doesn't have to cost an arm and a leg. And if you're careful with your gear you can shoot it a LOT without wearing things out. If you're shooting strictly targets and not stacking arrows then you really won't have any ongoing outlay aside from the occasional nock or fletching.

 

thanks

rick

 

My Hoyt Vectrix wasn't cheap but the bits and bobs have been upgraded 2 or 3 times.. sights, arrow rests etc.. still on the original strings and cables after 6 years though.. no signs of wear.. and my bow is in mint condition... the only thing that went on it was the plastic bus cable guide which I replaced (they all use pulleys nowadays!) testement to the durability of Hoyt and to looking after kit.. keep the strings waxed and they will last years.. may change them just from a cautionary standpoint next year though!

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