fieldwanderer Posted December 5, 2013 Report Share Posted December 5, 2013 I've decided to make a sling for my new rifle, something I can be proud of and will be unique and personal to me. So, while trundling about britain's roads in my lorry I hatched a plan (which may be complete nonsense to anyone who knows what they're doing ). The rifle's not a light sporter so it needs a wide, comfortable, strong sling. I have a belt that looks ideal but I'm not going to hack it up as it was a gift - it's 4mm thick, 38mm wide. I've found similar online for a decent price but it's natural (needs to be dyed). The plan so far is to leave the ends the same width (38mm) but have a curved cut out a little way in from each end so it narrows to the width of my sling swivels (27mm), for want of a better description, it'll be shaped like a woman's sanitary item until I bend it back on itself and sew it (with the swivel in the narrow portion). I can make the above the right length for me, I guess slightly short would make sense so it can stretch slightly over time. I intend to glue it where it will be sewn before marking the holes and drilling them with a little tiny drill bit. And all this before we even get into dye and possibly some form of decoration BUT, I'm sure some of you guys know a lot better than I do Any chance of some pointers please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yellow Bear Posted December 5, 2013 Report Share Posted December 5, 2013 http://www.theidentitystore.co.uk/ - all you could possibly need and more including the leathers and tools - based in Matlock so the shop, although not easy to find is worth a visit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainBeaky Posted December 5, 2013 Report Share Posted December 5, 2013 You could also try LePrevo Leather - they are very helpful. Delivery isn't always the quickest but prices are good. Undyed veg-tan leather: 3.5-4mm thick - 1.5" cut strap, 44" long = £5.77 +VAT Veg tan can be tooled when wet, and takes dyes well. Alternatively, dyed bridle butt (much higher quality): 3.5-4mm thick - 1.5" cut strap, 60" long = £14.61+VAT Evostik (the solvent version) works well for gluing the leather seams before sewing ('tis what works for me!). If you haven't done saddle-stitch before - have a look on YouTube for tutorial videos, or here [CLICKY] Use a diamond section awl rather than drilling the holes if you can - this divides the fibres rather than cutting through, allows the leather to close back around the stitches, and gets the stitches to lay properly. Wax the thread first! Beware - leatherwork is addictive... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yellow Bear Posted December 5, 2013 Report Share Posted December 5, 2013 You could also try LePrevo Leather - they are very helpful. Delivery isn't always the quickest but prices are good. Undyed veg-tan leather: 3.5-4mm thick - 1.5" cut strap, 44" long = £5.77 +VAT Veg tan can be tooled when wet, and takes dyes well. Alternatively, dyed bridle butt (much higher quality): 3.5-4mm thick - 1.5" cut strap, 60" long = £14.61+VAT Evostik (the solvent version) works well for gluing the leather seams before sewing ('tis what works for me!). Prefer "Copydex" easier to redo if incorrect If you haven't done saddle-stitch before - have a look on YouTube for tutorial videos, or here [CLICKY] Most important I was taught 45 deg on long side to direction of stitch. Use a diamond section awl rather than drilling the holes if you can - this divides the fibres rather than cutting through, allows the leather to close back around the stitches, and gets the stitches to lay properly. Wax the thread first! Even better is pre-waxed nylon thread - not trad but never rots and less "frey" Beware - leatherwork is addictive... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fieldwanderer Posted December 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2013 thanks guys, that's given me a start at the very least I've repaired leather stitching before but never really tried hard to do it right, so the help with that's going to be very valuable, thankyou! O.k. what I was looking at was 60" of 4mm veg tan 38mm wide (I want it wide) comes to £8.99 posted I'd like to dye it, and maybe stamp something on it too. Sooo, is the dying process simple? what do I need? And, the stamps I've seen, do you get them hot and "brand" the leather with them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainBeaky Posted December 5, 2013 Report Share Posted December 5, 2013 No, don't heat it! With veg tan, you dunk it in lukewarm water for 10 seconds, rest it on a board, then press the stamp into the leather. Hold for 10 seconds, then remove stamp. You can also write on the wet leather with a metal or bone scribe. Hint: practise on scraps first... Nylon thread? Ick! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whalefish Posted December 5, 2013 Report Share Posted December 5, 2013 (edited) If you dont want to spend the cash on dye you can make your own with rusty wire wool and vinegar, makes a really nice black/ dark navy colour. search vinegroon ( http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s=d0ab4092380574c5854f43ca4852e2fb&showtopic=15429&st=0 ) it actually changes the colour of the leather chemically and means it wont rub off. have a look on youtube for tandy leather, they have some great basic videos on edge burnishing and basic stamping. You can also make your own stamps with a big nail head filed into different designs. I use 80lb fishing braid for stitching knife sheaths, v strong and cheap compared to the special leather threads, just wax it first with some beeswax/ Hope that helps. Edited December 5, 2013 by whalefish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainBeaky Posted December 5, 2013 Report Share Posted December 5, 2013 Dyeing - acrylic dyes are cheap, oil dyes are better, but fewer colours. Make sure to prep the surfaces properly before you dye - read dye manufacturer's instructions. Having the surface slightly damp before you apply the dye gives a more even colour result. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
humperdingle Posted December 6, 2013 Report Share Posted December 6, 2013 leatherworker.net Have a look there. Great resource, especially the forum. I've made a couple of belts but not a sling yet. Hope you're not doing this to save money? 'Cos if you get hooked, it ain't a cheap hobby Dye - I use Fiebings pro oil dye. Case the leather first by slightly damping. You can 'dunk' in and out of a bowl of dye or just daub it on. However, you may be pleasantly surprised what colour changes happen when using neatsfoot oil or even olive oil, but not tooo much. These add natural oils to the leather, making it more supple, less liable to cracking and darken the leather. Finish with Fiebings Resolene cut 50/50 with water to give a water resistant finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fieldwanderer Posted December 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2013 Thanks again! No, it's not to save money, I just do these daft things from time to time. That said, I don't intend to get hooked either - I've got enough expensive habits as it is! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted December 6, 2013 Report Share Posted December 6, 2013 Are you thinking of making it into a service type shooting sling to also carry? also (always fancied doing that myself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
humperdingle Posted December 6, 2013 Report Share Posted December 6, 2013 Thanks again! No, it's not to save money, I just do these daft things from time to time. That said, I don't intend to get hooked either - I've got enough expensive habits as it is! I didn't either... Mine started with a £50 kit of leather and a couple of basic tools etc. I've probably spent ten times that in the last year But it's quite theraputic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonker Posted December 6, 2013 Report Share Posted December 6, 2013 Have you thought about a straight cut along the strap and a stud to use through the cut sort of like a button in a button hole, you can do this either end. That way you can stain and decorate your strap and take it on and off whenever you like, no need to sew it on, hang on I'll take a picture of what I mean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainBeaky Posted December 6, 2013 Report Share Posted December 6, 2013 You mean a Sam Browne stud. They work well, but you need to put the strap through a loop before the stud, to make sure the strain on the stud stays in line. I've used this idea on scabbard frogs before -I'll see if I can dig out a photo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonker Posted December 6, 2013 Report Share Posted December 6, 2013 You mean a Sam Browne stud. They work well, but you need to put the strap through a loop before the stud, to make sure the strain on the stud stays in line. I've used this idea on scabbard frogs before -I'll see if I can dig out a photo. CaptainBeaky, I don't know what you mean about putting it through a loop first, can you explain please. The photo's are from a sling of mine and I have two or three, which I change from rifle to rifle. I just use the stud exactly like a button. Perhaps I'm not understanding your post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainBeaky Posted December 7, 2013 Report Share Posted December 7, 2013 CaptainBeaky, I don't know what you mean about putting it through a loop first, can you explain please. The photo's are from a sling of mine and I have two or three, which I change from rifle to rifle. I just use the stud exactly like a button. Perhaps I'm not understanding your post. Sorry - I was a bit vague, and couldn't upload a photo from my phone. This is a quick-release rapier frog (for stage use). As I said, the strap from the frog goes through the D-ring on the scabbard, then back through the ring and over the stud. This arrangement is very robust - the scabbards are designed (and have been used) for stage combat, which can get quite, err, energetic It is also easy to release with one hand - so you don't have the scabbard flapping around your legs for the really energetic bits The cast loop (from LePrevo Leather): If it will stand up to this use, I would think it more than up to the job of securing quite a heavy rifle onto your sling B) Hope this makes more sense than my previous Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonker Posted December 9, 2013 Report Share Posted December 9, 2013 Yep cheers, got that!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fieldwanderer Posted December 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2013 Thanks again everyone! Still not started it but I'm sure I'll have more questions when I do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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