merseapaul Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 This is an old tip I used many years ago and aimed (pardon the pun ) for people New to 22lr when using mil dots and bullet trajectories etc all seem a bit confusing and you just want a simple way to aim. It assumes you have a basic scope with variable magnification and a duplex reticule. Firstly after finding best ammo for your rifle start from a fixed stable position and zero at 50 yards then without moving rifle move same target out to 100 yards. Aim at exactly the same point from the same position as 50 and fire 5-6 shots. The group will be larger and lower from your 50 yard group. You then again without moving rifle and aiming at same spot adjust magnification until the top of the bottom duplex post is in center of 100 yard group. You can now take a 50 yard shot in center 75 in between the two and 100 yard with top of duplex. Make note of where your magnification is set or lock it there with tape because if you keep zooming in and out all the time it will hinder your range estimation through scope. As I said it is basic but has served me well for years and still today and hope it helps somebody out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billytheghillie Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 you have lost me there paul! any diagrams? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merseapaul Posted September 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 you have lost me there paul! any diagrams? Sorry no, am using my kindle so would not know where to start!. Basically aiming at same point all the time, as target moves further away the bullet drops more. At 100 yards the group will be lower and keeping center of cross hairs on aim Mark adjust zoom till top of duplex is in center of the group shot at 100 yards. If you then take a 100 yard shot you use the duplex as aiming point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merseapaul Posted September 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 zero your gun at 50 yards, move back to 100 yards and shoot a group still aiming at the centre and then wind your zoom up/down so that as the image size alters, your reticle's first stadia or identifiable marker covers the 100 yard group. basically you now have a 50 yard zero with the centre of your reticle and a 100 yard zero as the duplex, or whatever broadens/first mildot etc. It only works on second focal plane although that is most scopes like 3-9x40 etc Spot on fister but I was trying to stay away from words like focal plane and stadia as most just starting out wont have a clue and never need to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin lad Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 This is an old tip I used many years ago and aimed (pardon the pun ) for people New to 22lr when using mil dots and bullet trajectories etc all seem a bit confusing and you just want a simple way to aim. It assumes you have a basic scope with variable magnification and a duplex reticule. Firstly after finding best ammo for your rifle start from a fixed stable position and zero at 50 yards then without moving rifle move same target out to 100 yards. Aim at exactly the same point from the same position as 50 and fire 5-6 shots. The group will be larger and lower from your 50 yard group. You then again without moving rifle and aiming at same spot adjust magnification until the top of the bottom duplex post is in center of 100 yard group. You can now take a 50 yard shot in center 75 in between the two and 100 yard with top of duplex. Make note of where your magnification is set or lock it there with tape because if you keep zooming in and out all the time it will hinder your range estimation through scope. As I said it is basic but has served me well for years and still today and hope it helps somebody out. sounds a good idea will try it when i go out next colin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
figgy Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 (edited) I used to do the same with groupings at different distances, only I never altered anything just use the mil dots to measure the gap between groups to get hold over at that distance. Or crosshairs and see how far down the vertical post I had to be. Wait till the newbie starts with windage and shooting up or downhill Been a fan of the find the point that the bullet trajectory passes horizontal line going up on its arc as it's the same zero further out when it drops past it again and anything in between is less to think about as hold over and under is less exaggerated. Figgy Edited September 3, 2014 by figgy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merseapaul Posted September 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 I used to do the same with groupings at different distances, only I never altered anything just use the mil dots to measure the gap between groups to get hold over at that distance. Or crosshairs and see how far down the vertical post I had to be. Wait till the newbie starts with windage and shooting up or downhill Been a fan of the find the point that the bullet trajectory passes horizontal line going up on its arc as it's the same zero further out when it drops past it again and anything in between is less to think about as hold over and under is less exaggerated. Figgy Could have swore in my original post "mil dots and bullet trajectories confusing" ! Please take this post as intended, a tried and tested simple method for zeroing a scope for various ranges. Any input to help explain is welcome but please bear in mind it's not for experienced people in the know who could cloud what I am trying to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1066 Posted September 4, 2014 Report Share Posted September 4, 2014 Could have swore in my original post "mil dots and bullet trajectories confusing" ! Please take this post as intended, a tried and tested simple method for zeroing a scope for various ranges. Any input to help explain is welcome but please bear in mind it's not for experienced people in the know who could cloud what I am trying to do. That's an excellent tip Paul, especially for the newer shooter. A lot of us "old hands" take these things fore granted and these tips tend to be picked up along the way, especially if you've served your apprenticeship from low powered plinking airguns - full sized airguns - FAC - 22lr etc. There are many shooter, however, who don't progress through the ranks. Just jump in to a local gunshop with a fat wallet and walk out with a £1,500 air rifle /scope and not a clue. I made this short video for a mate who was having trouble zeroing his scope (not an inexperienced shooter) It's now has around 350,000 views - I thought it was basic stuff everyone knew. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted September 4, 2014 Report Share Posted September 4, 2014 Well I think KISS works well with the .22. Tried many things over the years the most effective for me has been knowing the drop from zero and at what point onwards and how much ( in simple inches) the correction I need to hold over or off . Working with a fixed mag 4,6 or 8x say its amazing how quick you can get real good at this as the sight picture starts to speak to you, the only downside? when you see a small bunny and think its a big bunny far away from the site picture. Anything else falls down at night in comparisom and that's when a lot of bunnies get shot and don't forget you can always cheat by say getting a bunny to stand if you suspect it might be a bit further out but are unsure, the drop will then still kill cleanly with a chest hit rather then the head if you were out a little etc. I think the way mentioned by the OP is often termed "Bracketing" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
figgy Posted September 4, 2014 Report Share Posted September 4, 2014 I think if your going to start shooting you should start learning, it ain't rocket science and plenty of advice online to explain what everything is. The hardest part is putting into words to explain without pics or videos as the op has said. Figgy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merseapaul Posted September 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2014 I think if your going to start shooting you should start learning, it ain't rocket science and plenty of advice online to explain what everything is. The hardest part is putting into words to explain without pics or videos as the op has said. Figgy Fair point figgy, I did go on a bit and not very good explaining it but fister explained it pretty well I thought. As far as not rocket science goes it depends what level you want to take it too. I have seen people weighing every round ringing the changes, produce charts and graphs had booklets to shoot with and scope covers with all there calculations on. I have also seen people , one old keeper in particular where windage is a bit to the left or right and elevation is up and down...but he drops foxes, rabbits and the like as well as anyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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