Davyo Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Anybody know where I can get a 12v driver for T20,with IR pill? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Iam after one to if you here of anything Cheers john Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davyo Posted September 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Iam after one to if you here of anything Cheers john I have just ordered a 12v to 3.7v stepdown reducer as no luck finding a T20 12v IR driver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boo Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Contact Sikastag on the uknv or i.r lightbuilds on face book, Ian probably supply driver and led, decent guy..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evo Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 can I ask why you want a 12 volt driver as the T20 with oslon black runs on 3.7v approx. so no need to use the 12v driver, use the 12v to 3.7v regulator and you wont go wrong but your better using a buck puck with a constant 1,000mah which the oslon runs at atb Evo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davyo Posted September 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 can I ask why you want a 12 volt driver as the T20 with oslon black runs on 3.7v approx. so no need to use the 12v driver, use the 12v to 3.7v regulator and you wont go wrong but your better using a buck puck with a constant 1,000mah which the oslon runs at atb Evo Hi Bob hope your well,I am still using the 12v- 3.7v you sent me, but I am currently working on a spotter and was wanting to save space in the project box.So I was wanting to wire direct from the driver to 12v source. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evo Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 (edited) Hi Bob hope your well, I am still using the 12v- 3.7v you sent me, but I am currently working on a spotter and was wanting to save space in the project box.So I was wanting to wire direct from the driver to 12v source. the problem you have is the driver,,i do not know of a driver that will run the T20 at 12 volts due to the IR only using 3.7 volts,,the 1000mah buck puck is a lot smaller and gives a constant current but is around £12-15, it will run from the 12 volt source straight to the star your oslon black is using, so there is no need to use a driver , that is what I use and they are excellent bud and small also, you could shave it down with a dremmel to get it even smaller but be careful as the main components are sitting in a compound and I clipped some (to my horror) causing one I had bought to malfunction,, pm me a picture dave and I,ll see what I can do for ya mate atb Evo Edited September 8, 2014 by evo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick miller Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 One got one here you can have for £12 posted. Easy to wire up and 0-100% dimming (in fact I have two for a score posted). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davyo Posted September 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 can I ask why you want a 12 volt driver as the T20 with oslon black runs on 3.7v approx. so no need to use the 12v driver, use the 12v to 3.7v regulator and you wont go wrong but your better using a buck puck with a constant 1,000mah which the oslon runs at atb Evo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davyo Posted September 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 the problem you have is the driver,,i do not know of a driver that will run the T20 at 12 volts due to the IR only using 3.7 volts,,the 1000mah buck puck is a lot smaller and gives a constant current but is around £12-15, it will run from the 12 volt source straight to the star your oslon black is using, so there is no need to use a driver , that is what I use and they are excellent bud and small also, you could shave it down with a dremmel to get it even smaller but be careful as the main components are sitting in a compound and I clipped some (to my horror) causing one I had bought to malfunction,, pm me a picture dave and I,ll see what I can do for ya mate atb Evo Here is the front from my set up Bob,I cant seem tp pm pics.I thought it was a matter of just swapping a driver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evo Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 (edited) Here is the front from my set up Bob,I cant seem tp pm pics.I thought it was a matter of just swapping a driver. ok mate,,looking at what you have done, the best thing would be to use a buck puck, it will cost a bit more but will take up the least amount of room, as you know the oslon wants to run at best with a current of 1050mah and with the buck puck you will be able to wire it direct to the star on which the oslon sits, it will give you a constand steady 1000mah to the oslon, it is the smallest thing you could use and probably the most reliable also,looking at your pic it will easily fit in your box,, that's the way I would do it, also because its a spotter don't use anything less than a 50mm lens and get the smallest f stop you can ie f1.2 etc but don't forget the bigger the lens the higher the f stop and the less light will enter towards the camera, hope that helps bud atb Evo ps ,,,get those two off dave(mickmiller) bargain mate and they run the oslon superb Edited September 8, 2014 by evo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick miller Posted September 9, 2014 Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 By the way the IR led doesn't run at 3, 6 or 12v - it runs at 1000 mah or 1A in other words. Don't get confused with volts and amps. The driver simply needs to cope with your input voltage range and output what the load requires in terms of power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evo Posted September 9, 2014 Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 By the way the IR led doesn't run at 3, 6 or 12v - it runs at 1000 mah or 1A in other words. Don't get confused with volts and amps. The driver simply needs to cope with your input voltage range and output what the load requires in terms of power. correct, but I,m sure I,ve put that in the above post lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davyo Posted September 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 (edited) One got one here you can have for £12 posted. Easy to wire up and 0-100% dimming (in fact I have two for a score posted). Hi mate, can you put a diagram up on how to wire?If its something I can do I will have one.I dont want a dimmer I just want something that can run from 12v and not blow the led. Edited September 9, 2014 by Davyo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick miller Posted September 10, 2014 Report Share Posted September 10, 2014 Well, I think if you bypass (or ignore) the dimming circuit the driver defaults to full power. Wiring can be found here: http://www.ledsupply.com/content/pdf/led-driver-luxdrive-buckpuck_documentation.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
activeviii Posted September 10, 2014 Report Share Posted September 10, 2014 Well, I think if you bypass (or ignore) the dimming circuit the driver defaults to full power. Wiring can be found here: http://www.ledsupply.com/content/pdf/led-driver-luxdrive-buckpuck_documentation.pdf This is what i use. the XP driver. just not using the dimmer side of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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