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12g non toxic not steel


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Guest cookoff013

If you are shooting very close duck ,then its true that you do not need 3s for duck. But if you need a shell that has a similar performance to lead and will kill ducks cleanly at 45 yards, then you do need at least a 36 gr load of no 3 shot and i often use a 42gr load of no 2 in a full after choke at high flighting mallard.

 

these are probably the best value shells you are ever going to get without going silly "3.5" or "premium nontoxic." for ducks they are more than adequate, they are excellent.

 

gambore game and wet steel, in a #2 for general ducking.

HP steel (i think express) do a 36g 3" 1-3-4 i`d take the 3s minimum (duck) or i`d just do 1s (everyday value).

hull do a 34g steel in 1,3,4, same as i`d take the 3s min or 1s.

 

so looking at the prices and value i`d certainly recomend, (gamebore have invested very heavily in steel loads, for years)

gamebore -32g 3s for decoy, close, maybe driven duck, this is the minimum and cheapest shell (£200/k)

gamebore 36g 3-1s for decent shell, 3s for duck 1s for close geese, (1s can certainly be used for both.) £293/k

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If you rrad the write up from basc they only recomend steel shot size bb and bigger through half choke anything smaller can go through any choke .i have a berretta silver pigeon 5 with fixes 3/4 and full and have shot thousands of 36 gr steel loads through it with no problem

 

So Far.......... Just "google steel shot damaging shotguns"

 

I have stayed away from steel shot for me it does not feel right shooting steel down a barrel also made of steel their must be a risk even if it is a very small risk.

Still early days for steel shot being used at faster and faster speeds.

However I only do a little duck shooting these days so I use bismuth cartridges for peace of mind.

Edited by rbrowning2
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You can google lead shot damaging shotguns aswell most damage done to shotguns is when a wadding gets stuck up the barrel and causes a bulge not the shot so called bunching up and blowing the barrel out also people getting mud and other objects stuck in there barrel .as for steel shot down the barrel alot of steel cartridges are loaded with the steel held in a shot cup not pushed up the barrel by a conventional wad so technically its the wadding rubbing the barrel not the steel shot

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You can google lead shot damaging shotguns aswell most damage done to shotguns is when a wadding gets stuck up the barrel and causes a bulge not the shot so called bunching up and blowing the barrel out also people getting mud and other objects stuck in there barrel .as for steel shot down the barrel alot of steel cartridges are loaded with the steel held in a shot cup not pushed up the barrel by a conventional wad so technically its the wadding rubbing the barrel not the steel shot

 

True what you say, but what about the slits in the wad that must be a weak point and statistics may show that sooner or later a steel pellet should protrude through to touch the barrel.

 

But may be I will try some steel next time I need some non toxic.

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I would try steel you will be amazed at how much its come on over the last five years or so i have had some really good kills through my semi auto with a pattern master choke which just slows the was up to let the shot stay tighter together at longer ranges .

If you do buy some steels you wont go wrong with the new eley lightning steels very good load

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