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Ditchman has lost it ..completly !


ditchman
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just messing about...cleaning and putting new copper washers and "o" rings on the oil filter housing.....have only screwed it on finger tight as i will take them...(and the side plates off)....stow them away and flip the block over to start dropping the crank in....

 

the 2nd pic' is of the oilpump and vacumn pump drive...which will go in once the crank is in and the block is right way up again...

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on the previous pic' it shows on the bronze bush ...an' ole....and on the next pic if you look carefully you can see the grub screw that goes thro' the oil filter mounting face and locks into the 'ole...thus keeping it in position meshing with the cam drive gear...

 

the last pic' is where the oil pump drive shaft slots into...............

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after you have been to post#41............replace the "o" ring seals on the vacumn drive

 

  1. remove pump
  2. identify top circlip and remove...(see pic)
  3. lift out sealing ring...(see pic)
  4. replace internal and external "o" rings
  5. put vasaline on rings
  6. replace

 

pic 3 and 4 are without the "0" rings as they have disintergrated,,,i will replace them this saturday...............this operation can be done in-situ...you do not have to remove the drive from the engine.... :good:

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loving this ditchman, if only i knew what all the parts were. nice to see them all nice and clean, whats your trick??

 

 

see post #315....and use a squirty spray bottle full of petrol..........wipe down then a quick spray of 10% clean engine oil 90% deseil mix...............

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Hope the mouth is OK after your visit to the Dentist.

 

 

 

had a mouth full of that pink gunk when they take the impressions.....yuuak..............tooth is still in place had a filling, she might save it if she can take the pressure off it with the new plate...........

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first pic is the place where the thrust washers sit...and the 2nd pic is a down view of the thrust washers when the crankshaft is in...you can just see the ends of them.....the thrust washers hold the crank in position and stop any lateral movement ....and movement is called "float"

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these "l" shaped gaskets are A TOTAL NIGHTMARE to fix in place....they used to be made of 90% cork and 10% rubber....now they are 95% rubber and 5% cork..........the old ones were easy to compress and fit but didnt last very long...the new ones are very hard to fit...the easiest way is to put them in boiling water for 3 min's then plenty of oil and slide...tap...slide into position.............you can always tell if this 2.5 engine has had new shells ...as it is missing the gaskets...and what they have done is squirted silicon rubber into the gaps ...which is ok as long as you can degrease all the faces so the silicon sticks to the metal...if you dont ..the oil vapour will find an exit....thus an annoying drip on you drive appears....

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