rabbiter Posted June 19, 2016 Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 i recently had the piston seize on my grand vitara,so I put a new caliper on,then a few days later I replaced the other side.Now my brakes have been squealing just as I come to a stop,this is why things were changed.Yesterday I noticed squealing coming from rear near side wheel,so checked the rear brakes and found that while I had someone depress the pedal,the right hand shoe wasn't moving as it should and noticed slight corrosion on the right hand side of the brake cylinder,so rightly or wrongly I cleanrd it as much as I could with penetrating fluid.I then put a tiny bit of copper grease on the boot where it holds the shoe.On driving the car straight after,just up the street,there was no squeal,then a bit later I went for a takeaway and it squealed all the way there and back,so theat shoe must be binding...should I not have put the copper grease on? I know ll need to change the cylinder tomorrow,its a 2008 GV auto,thanks in advance for any advice guys... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davyo Posted June 19, 2016 Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 (edited) Have you checked the sliders pins & only use red rubber grease.For the price of the slider kits it might be with changing both sides. Edited June 19, 2016 by Davyo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rabbiter Posted June 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 yeah davy,i changed them when i did the calipers mate... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodp Posted June 19, 2016 Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 Make sure there's still a leading edge on the shoes, they should be chamfered on the leading edge. As said, make sure everything is free, copperslip on the metal to metal bits and rubber grease or brake fluid on cylinders. Sometimes you have to hold one shoe in with a bar to get the opposite cylinder to operate, that's normal so long as the springs pull both back in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scutt Posted June 19, 2016 Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 (edited) the brake drum may have a ridge on the lip of the drum use something like a dremmel to grind it off check for play on rear hub also hand brake releasing all the way . Edited June 19, 2016 by scutt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rabbiter Posted June 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 well its gone from bad to worse,only gone and misplaced the locking nut key,so gonna have to go to suzuki and get another ********** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cannon Posted June 19, 2016 Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 (edited) There seems to be some confusion about what braking system you have on your car. You said the piston was seized so you replaced the caliper, then someone suggests checking your brake shoes. Do you have discs and pads on the rear or just drums? Also never use copper grease on slider pins or near rubber. It dries up and can cause brakes to stick. Brake squeal shouldn't happen even with a seized caliper. Your brakes shouldn't squeal during normal braking, so they shouldn't squeal any other time. That is unless the pads haven't been properly lubricated or are wearing thin. I'm assuming you have calipers and pads on your car. *Edit. With regards your locking nut key, you'd be better off buying a set of lock nut extractors and a new set of lock nuts yourself. The dealer will probably dig the arm in for a replacement key. Edited June 19, 2016 by Cannon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodp Posted June 19, 2016 Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 There seems to be some confusion about what braking system you have on your car. You said the piston was seized so you replaced the caliper, then someone suggests checking your brake shoes. Do you have discs and pads on the rear or just drums? Also never use copper grease on slider pins or near rubber. It dries up and can cause brakes to stick. Brake squeal shouldn't happen even with a seized caliper. Your brakes shouldn't squeal during normal braking, so they shouldn't squeal any other time. That is unless the pads haven't been properly lubricated or are wearing thin. I'm assuming you have calipers and pads on your car. *Edit. With regards your locking nut key, you'd be better off buying a set of lock nut extractors and a new set of lock nuts yourself. The dealer will probably dig the arm in for a replacement key. He mentions "shoe " and "cylinder" on the right hand rear, so safe to assume it's not disc. The idea of copper slip is when / if it dries up the copper acts as a lubricant, it rarely dries to that extent though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cannon Posted June 19, 2016 Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 (edited) He also states that the squealing is the reason why the caliper was changed in the first place. This leads me to believe that it is a disc and pad setup on the rear, seeing as that's where the squealing was coming from. We need the op to clarify. It's also quite difficult to visually inspect the movement of brake shoes inside a drum, unless the drum was first removed. If so, pressing the brake pedal isn't really a great idea with the drum removed. Edited June 19, 2016 by Cannon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rabbiter Posted June 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2016 discs on front,drums on the back,the piston on caliper(front) seized,locking brakes on,then the other side,then cylinder on rear(drum)corrosion was evident so not releasing right hand shoe properly,i rang Suzuki who needed key number from service book which isn't in there,they weren't much help at all after that,gone back to the garage I bought it from,thanks for input guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodp Posted June 20, 2016 Report Share Posted June 20, 2016 He also states that the squealing is the reason why the caliper was changed in the first place. This leads me to believe that it is a disc and pad setup on the rear, seeing as that's where the squealing was coming from. We need the op to clarify. It's also quite difficult to visually inspect the movement of brake shoes inside a drum, unless the drum was first removed. If so, pressing the brake pedal isn't really a great idea with the drum removed. Of course it is, it's done all the time to check brakes. You just hold them back with a bar (big screw driver) to check them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rabbiter Posted June 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2016 just back from garage,drama over,thanks again for youre input guys....................... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cannon Posted June 20, 2016 Report Share Posted June 20, 2016 Of course it is, it's done all the time to check brakes. You just hold them back with a bar (big screw driver) to check them Yeah thanks for that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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