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Bloody Dog


ShaggyRS6
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Nearly killed homself tonight. I took him down the normal feild and he just run off. After five minutes of chasing anything with wings (he did flush a nice pheasant) he decided to leave the feild (never done this before) and go onto a very busy country road.

 

Bit gutted. I have lost the will to do anything with him now.

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Cuperman,

 

Welcome to Dog Training :good:

 

 

I would suggest that you rerun your obediance work in that field . Use a drag line or a retractable lead and get control of the recall and the sit. I know you have put alot of time into him and that his obediance in the yard is good.

 

The rule of thumb is you need to train in three different styles of area example....backyard, park, field....and with three different types of cover example....mowed grass, 6inch grass and full field cover. This allows the dog to chain all aspects of its training into its working carreer. Be sure that he is solid in each type of cover and area before moving on.

 

NTTF

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My 1 year old cocker used to be a two-field hare dog.

 

It took the mutt that long chasing one before she realised that she would never catch it.

 

Happy days.

 

Tried it in a hide yet ? You cannot beat a spaniel in full flight across a field dragging a complete hide and poles with it :good::lol:

 

Don

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Now I have calmed down I can see the funny side. Aero is one mad ***** dog in the feild. NNTF is good you advise to train in all kind of conditions.

 

Funny you should mention it actually because since the grass in the feild has becaome higher than the dog he seems to a) enjoy himself a whole lot more :good: become alot more dissabediant.

 

I think he has just about forgiven me for the ####ing I gave him last night when I caught him.

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Now I have calmed down I can see the funny side. Aero is one mad ***** dog in the feild. NNTF is good you advise to train in all kind of conditions.

 

Funny you should mention it actually because since the grass in the feild has becaome higher than the dog he seems to a) enjoy himself a whole lot more :blink: become alot more dissabediant.

 

I think he has just about forgiven me for the ####ing I gave him last night when I caught him.

 

Try not to '*******' the dog. It's hard to do, really hard, but all you're going to do is make the dog think it's going to get ####ed every time it comes back, so it won't want to come back! Grit your teeth, swear like a trooper under your breath, but don't let the dog know! Praise and treat the good behaviour, ignore the unwanted!

 

That's the theory anyway, I've never been able to abide by it :blink:

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The collar i have is one that i have borrowed from a mate, it has 5 settings, u cannot feel setting number 1 but number 5 hurts a little (yes i have tried it on myself)

 

i cant really say i know a lot about them as i have just followed instructions off my mate

 

all i did was when my springer failed to stop on the whistle, i gave her a very quick zap on number 3 which made her stop immediately, not through pain but more of a "what was that!"

after a couple more quick zaps after she failed to stop she seemed to have got the message and now is responding brilliantly with or without the collar on :blink:

 

IMO if u can borrow a collar then try it or ask NTTF for further advise on other methods if your not keen on the collar idea

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NNTF,

 

What is your tek on the usage of such collars?

 

Lee

 

Okay, at the risk of a bashing.

 

E collars are great training tools, when used correctly. In your case yes it can help with both the recall and the sit whistle. However there are certain steps you need to take before you turn it on .

 

First you need to work the dog on a retractable lead to be sure that it understands the recall command. You also need to work the sit whistle on lead to be sure that the dog understands what is being asked of it. This needs to be done in the cover that you are having problems with.

 

Before the collar is turned on you need to have the dog wear it for 2 to 4 hour stints two times a day for upto 2 weeks. This part varies as the dog needs to be comfortable wearing it and basically not recognise when he has it on.

 

You then need to select the correct working level for your dog.

You are then ready to put the collar into use in a training program for the two exercises that we have discussed.

 

If you decide to go ahead with a collar let me know and I will outline the exercises for you.

 

Hope this helps,

 

NTTF

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Ok thanks NNTF. Its strange because I kept Aero on the long lead for his entire walk today. The ****** does exactly what he is told on the long lead 9/10.

 

He just becomes and insaine frenzied dog when he is off.

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Ok thanks NNTF. Its strange because I kept Aero on the long lead for his entire walk today. The ****** does exactly what he is told on the long lead 9/10.

 

He just becomes and insaine frenzied dog when he is off.

 

9 out of 10 times is good but you need to get to the 10 out of 10. Work him for a week or two on the long line.... you want it to be around 30 feet at least. If he is behaving and you have FULL control of him here is a trick you can try;

 

Using the same type of rope as your drag line and the same type and weight of snap that you have on your drag line, make a short tab. This only needs to be long enough to hang from the collar and to hit the chest between the front legs. This allows you to test him off the full drag but he will assume that he is still being worked on it. Just be reay to head him off and catch him if he decides to loose his hearing again.

 

NTTF

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