ShaggyRS6 Posted June 10, 2007 Report Share Posted June 10, 2007 I seem to be haviong trouble with my scope on my X3. All seemed fine and I was knocking off bunnies, all of a sudden though I dont seem to hit. Admitidly I am now going for different distances than I used to too as I have different permissions to shoot on. The scope may need zeroing, but It might be that I dont know how to use a NATO Ret. the rifle was zeroed for 30 yards, and I am assuming for each 5 yards in (or this is how I understand it) I drop down a bar? Or am I just having a bad day If I do need to zero it can you give any advice on what to use to keep the gun steady. I dont have a maintainence box (i need to get one) what do you use? Cheer All Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunkield Posted June 10, 2007 Report Share Posted June 10, 2007 The scope may need zeroing, but It might be that I dont know how to use a NATO Ret. the rifle was zeroed for 30 yards, and I am assuming for each 5 yards in (or this is how I understand it) I drop down a bar? I don't know the recticle you are describing, but no evenly spaced markings (mil dot for example) will be one dot per 5 yards, as the pellet and bullet drop increases with distance it isn't a constant - so more of a loop than a straight line. Best bet is to ping some distances and shoot at a target with horizontal lines or squares at those distances, then have a look at where the pellet is going for each distance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naddan28 Posted June 10, 2007 Report Share Posted June 10, 2007 Lee, their is no way the dot will be evenly spaced one for every 5 yards on any reticule for any type of bullet as the trajectory is not perfectly flat. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulkyuk Posted June 10, 2007 Report Share Posted June 10, 2007 if you are going to 're-zero' then use either a bipod ( if you have 1) or a bag of sand is a good rest - anything that will keep the gun straight and in the same line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShaggyRS6 Posted June 10, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2007 I think I sorted it, I just need to test tonight. What I had been playing about with was what I thought was the focus, but it was the Zero'ing gadget on the scope So I was changing it up to say 70 yards to get it (what I thought) was into focus. I called the chap I bought it from and he explained what I was doing was wrong, it has its own built range finder thingy. So I have set it back to what he had it zeroed at. I just need to test it tonight. This would make sense as its the only bit I have played with Doh Doh Doh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShaggyRS6 Posted June 10, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2007 I had to Re-Zero, something to do with the Range Finder on the scope. Anyhoo's on a Target at 30 Yard the gun was, well, of off the target, 7 Shots later it was dead center and then the bunnies began falling again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunkield Posted June 10, 2007 Report Share Posted June 10, 2007 Side wheel parallax perhaps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShaggyRS6 Posted June 10, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2007 Yeah, thats it. I'd been playing with it like it was a focus Still its Zero'd for 30 yards now. I need to do it properly at some point, i.e. 50 yards and work backwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunkield Posted June 11, 2007 Report Share Posted June 11, 2007 What 'they' (those strange FT people) do, is wind the scope up to max mag, and then use that to gauge/measure distance. They the read the range off and convert that to a holdover for that distance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShaggyRS6 Posted June 11, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2007 Sounds complicated. Do you suggest I do this or just use as is? What should I do with that wheel? Can you explain in more detail what I need to do? Sorry, I am confused Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunkield Posted June 11, 2007 Report Share Posted June 11, 2007 Unless you are using full mag it shouldn't make that much difference, so unless you need it I wouldn't use full mag or the sidewheel. Have you tried using the scope on a lower mag? I will try my best to find some words of wisdom, but we may need to enlist the help of a hard core airgunner EDIT: Don't know how good this is but here is something.. http://www.nikkostirling.com/Content/PDF/S...nstructions.pdf And some words. Why do FT shooters use high magnification scopes? The high magnification allows the shooter to use the adjustable objective to range find. Range finding is the act of determining the distance to the target. The distance can be estimated by eye but using the adjustable objective can most times estimate the distance within a yard of the actual distance. Knowing the distance to the target is key to scoring a hit. The higher the magnification scopes give more precise range finding capabilities. The scope must have very good clarity at the higher magnification to get the best range finding capabilities. How do you range find with a scope? Range finding with a scope consists of adjusting the objective on the scope until the target is in perfect focus. The distance is then read from the objective bell. Most FT shooters don't rely on the factory yardage marking on the scopes. They calibrate their scopes by actually focusing on targets at every distance and then mark that distance on the scope objective bell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pin Posted June 11, 2007 Report Share Posted June 11, 2007 Lee, their is no way the dot will be evenly spaced one for every 5 yards on any reticule for any type of bullet as the trajectory is not perfectly flat. Dan Apart from the MAP (multiple aim point) jobs by hawke, which do exactly this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShaggyRS6 Posted June 11, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2007 Thanks guys. I will have a read later, gotta take the dog out. I am assuming I should continue with the scope. I mean, its good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naddan28 Posted June 11, 2007 Report Share Posted June 11, 2007 Lee, their is no way the dot will be evenly spaced one for every 5 yards on any reticule for any type of bullet as the trajectory is not perfectly flat. Dan Apart from the MAP (multiple aim point) jobs by hawke, which do exactly this. I doubt the dots are evenly spaced though, like the mil dot (not looked through a MAP so speculating) Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunkield Posted June 11, 2007 Report Share Posted June 11, 2007 Thanks guys. I will have a read later, gotta take the dog out. I am assuming I should continue with the scope. I mean, its good. It would stick with it, I only just noticed it goes up to 50x - christ alive who did you buy it off, Mr Magoo I would have though 10x is more than enough for rabbit work on an airgun, I use a 7x fixed mag on my rimfire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShaggyRS6 Posted June 11, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2007 Right, took it out again tonight. Cant hit jack **** at 30 yards. Did not have a target with be so the land owner and eye setup a beer can on top of a bit of wood in the ground. Aiming for the red bit on the Groslch can I was 3 inches down and 1 right, this is after I had zeroed it the previous day. Now I know there is nothing wrong with the sight, it must be to do with this wheel thingy. Phalanx dooberry. I will prolly take it over the gun club unless someone can give me a simple guide on how o zero it. I am a simple man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunkield Posted June 11, 2007 Report Share Posted June 11, 2007 Get Peltman round there he will sort it out for you! It's almost impossble doing this remotely as we found out a week or so ago. OK one try.. Did the scope come on the gun or did you mount it yourself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShaggyRS6 Posted June 11, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2007 Came on the gun and was perfect until I frigged with the wheel thingy dooberry Who's Peltman? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunkield Posted June 11, 2007 Report Share Posted June 11, 2007 I would contact the previous owner or the gun shp then, you should be able to adjust the parallax without loosing the zero, something isn't right. There must be an FT person on here somewhere who can jump in and advise surely? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShaggyRS6 Posted June 11, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2007 I contacted Bob the previous owner, and he said I could take it to their gun club on Sunday, I might just take it over the gun shop TBH. He said I might be over filling it. But I dont think I have. I tried dry firing this evening to get rid of all the air, then the bloody batteries ran out So its on chrage tonight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flash Posted June 12, 2007 Report Share Posted June 12, 2007 a question no one has asked yet, is the scope mounted properly, and could there be a chance that the scope is wobbling. and the low down on the side paralaxe: how to range find, set up markers at different ranges, ie 15yrds, 25,35,45,55. set up on the side paralaxe a wheel which u can mark the ranges on. then set up a needle type marker on the side of the scope that marks points on the wheel, then look at the target through the scope, and turning the side paralax till the picture is at its clearest, when this happens, mark the distance of the target on the wheel wher the marker is pointing. do this for every range. once uve worked all the distances out, u need to workout the holdover, for each range. and how many clicks is required to correct the zero at each range. for example 50 yrds at a 35 yrd zreo may require 5 turns on the turret. once uve worked the zeroes out u can focus the scope using the side paralax, take the distance off the wheel and convert it into clicks using your conversion chart, is a basic diagram explaining the set up. sorry if its a bit confusing, or if ive made a few spelling mistakes, im not veyr good at explaining stuff on the web like this, cheers flash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henry d Posted June 12, 2007 Report Share Posted June 12, 2007 Nice one flash, we`ll be expecting a "Masterclass" on paralax error etc. at Bisley this year Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunkield Posted June 12, 2007 Report Share Posted June 12, 2007 But he said he hadn't touched it, it was as he bought it. Mind you, that is what all our customers say Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mungler Posted June 12, 2007 Report Share Posted June 12, 2007 Mungler's top Viz tip for reticules.... Rather than spend money on expensive scopes with illuminated reticules, buy a cheap scope and before you go shooting stare hard into a very bright lightbulb. I hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flash Posted June 12, 2007 Report Share Posted June 12, 2007 i can demonstrate if needs be HD, might see if i can hit a big *** target on short siberia with the s400, i rckon i could hit some part of it. use it like a 2 inch mortar.im not fan of using side paralax though, i used to use my mates heinze 57 air rifle at bisley, its made a mixture of air rifles, but shoots very nice. i still prefer using my s400 and learning to use holdover with mil dots, much easier. cheers fllash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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