.22lr

[Good shot?]

CZ scope rails are narrower than most as has been said..

I would swap the scope mounts (back to front) and also rotate them 180 degrees.This corrected a mates similar fault.

See if that corrects it. Failing that get CZ mounts fitted from Malmo.which will fit the rails / scope centrally..

 

Edited April 4, 2018 by Good shot?

[Guest]

Cheers for all the info and help chaps i’ll let you know when I manage to sort it. 

[PPP]

It might be that where the middle of the adjustments were set isn’t the middle, I had this years ago on a Nikko air rifle scope.

To fix it I found the total amount of clicks in the adjustment range from stop to stop and fixed the mid point half way between the two in windAge and elevation, it was way out when new..

[Dekers]

23 minutes ago, PPP said:

It might be that where the middle of the adjustments were set isn’t the middle, I had this years ago on a Nikko air rifle scope.

To fix it I found the total amount of clicks in the adjustment range from stop to stop and fixed the mid point half way between the two in windAge and elevation, it was way out when new..

Can you explain that slowly, I'm obviously having a bad day as I don't understand what you are talking about!

Cheers

[PPP]

Hhhm... yes I didn’t explain that very well..

On my old Nikko scope, the calibration on the turrets that indicated the mid point was mis aligned on both elevation and windAge, the net result was that the adjustment ran out before it should have done..

Does that make sense?

[Guest]

6 minutes ago, PPP said:

Hhhm... yes I didn’t explain that very well..

On my old Nikko scope, the calibration on the turrets that indicated the mid point was mis aligned on both elevation and windAge, the net result was that the adjustment ran out before it should have done..

Does that make sense?

I think this could be my issue as when I attempted to bore sight it I couldn’t get the crosshairs to move over the target that I had aligned down the barrel. Like I said I’m taking it back to the gun shop this week just to be safe but I think this could be what’s up. 

Edited April 4, 2018 by Guest

[PPP]

1 minute ago, Thomas Rutlidge said:

I think this could be my issue as when I attempted to bore sight it I couldn’t get the crosshairs to move over the target that I had aligned down the barrel. Like I said I’m taking it back to the gun shop this week just to be safe but I think this could be what’s up. 

Hope so mate, it’s an easy fix, but you are right to get the shop to sort it

[Dekers]

10 hours ago, PPP said:

Hhhm... yes I didn’t explain that very well..

On my old Nikko scope, the calibration on the turrets that indicated the mid point was mis aligned on both elevation and windAge, the net result was that the adjustment ran out before it should have done..

Does that make sense?

No, it doesn't make any sense to me.   Ok, am I going mad here or have I completely missed something?

Taking a turret off a scope and replacing it somewhere different is common, it's usually done to denote "0" point for windage and elevation when appropriate Zero has been achieved!   Whatever the numbers may say on a turret is, in reality, totally irrelevant.    Simply taking the turret off and moving it has no effect on the start and stop point of the turret travel, it just changes what the numbers say on the turret.  Adjustment is not decided by the turret, it is decided by the mechanism it is screwed to! 

For example, lets assume you turned the turret as far as it would go one way, you can take the turret off and put it back however you like, it will still only turn back the way it has just come, it will not give you any additional adjustment at all!

You seem to be suggesting taking a turret off and replacing it somewhere different will actually give you additional adjustment, I'm not following that at all, doesn't work that way on any scope I know!

Tell me what I'm missing please. Cheers

[PPP]

4 hours ago, Dekers said:

No, it doesn't make any sense to me.   Ok, am I going mad here or have I completely missed something?

Taking a turret off a scope and replacing it somewhere different is common, it's usually done to denote "0" point for windage and elevation when appropriate Zero has been achieved!   Whatever the numbers may say on a turret is, in reality, totally irrelevant.    Simply taking the turret off and moving it has no effect on the start and stop point of the turret travel, it just changes what the numbers say on the turret.  Adjustment is not decided by the turret, it is decided by the mechanism it is screwed to! 

For example, lets assume you turned the turret as far as it would go one way, you can take the turret off and put it back however you like, it will still only turn back the way it has just come, it will not give you any additional adjustment at all!

You seem to be suggesting taking a turret off and replacing it somewhere different will actually give you additional adjustment, I'm not following that at all, doesn't work that way on any scope I know!

Tell me what I'm missing please. Cheers

Ok, let’s say that there are 40 clicks of adjustment for sake of argument, you would expect the marked mid point to be after 20 clicks however in this instance is was more like 12, so there was more movement in one direction than another.  Recalibration of this created more adjustment..

make sense now?

[Dekers]

3 hours ago, PPP said:

Ok, let’s say that there are 40 clicks of adjustment for sake of argument, you would expect the marked mid point to be after 20 clicks however in this instance is was more like 12, so there was more movement in one direction than another.  Recalibration of this created more adjustment..

make sense now?

    NO!?  Taking a turret off and repositioning it will not give you any more adjustment at all!

All you have done is change the position of the turret and what it reads, you do not have any more adjustment!

You have 40 clicks on your example whatever you do and that's it, repositioning the turret does not chance that one bit, all that changes is what the turret reads.

 

Edited April 5, 2018 by Dekers

[Dekers]

17 hours ago, PPP said:

Hhhm... yes I didn’t explain that very well..

On my old Nikko scope, the calibration on the turrets that indicated the mid point was mis aligned on both elevation and windAge, the net result was that the adjustment ran out before it should have done..

Does that make sense?

 

17 hours ago, Thomas Rutlidge said:

I think this could be my issue as when I attempted to bore sight it I couldn’t get the crosshairs to move over the target that I had aligned down the barrel. Like I said I’m taking it back to the gun shop this week just to be safe but I think this could be what’s up. 

It isn't your issue, if giving you more adjustment was as simple as taking a turret off and moving it nobody would ever need to buy a long range scope!

Think about it........Oh, I have used up all the adjustment on the turret and it has arrived at the end stop, but I still need a few more inches....I know, lets take the turret off and reset it back at 0 and I'll get all that adjustment again!      The adjustment is at the end stop and whatever you do with the turret isn't going to change that!

If you can't find the problem then back to RFD would be favourite.

Edited April 5, 2018 by Dekers

[1066]

Just an observation, but when optically centering your scope ( nothing to do with zeroing here) it important to be looking through the scope to see when the reticle stops moving.. screwing in the turret you will arrive at a dead stop, unscrewing the turret, the reticle will stop moving but often the turret continues to click, doing nothing whatsoever.

And another observation. CZ have been making good value, accurate rifles for a long time, I find it a bit disappointing that they have not addressed the scope rail problem. They have an odd size dovetail, it's too short and the bolt handle fouls the scope eye bell. (Hence the high mounts in the photo). An extended Picatinny or Weaver rail and a cranked bolt handle as standard would be a step forward.

Edited April 6, 2018 by 1066

[Dekers]

51 minutes ago, 1066 said:

Just an observation, but when optically centering your scope ( nothing to do with zeroing here) it important to be looking through the scope to see when the reticle stops moving.. screwing in the turret you will arrive at a dead stop, unscrewing the turret, the reticle will stop moving but often the turret continues to click, doing nothing whatsoever.

And another observation. CZ have been making good value, accurate rifles for a long time, I find it a bit disappointing that they have not addressed the scope rail problem. They have an odd size dovetail, it's too short and the bolt handle fouls the scope eye bell. (Hence the high mounts in the photo). An extended Picatinny or Weaver rail and a cranked bolt handle as standard would be a step forward.

No argument as such, I don't understand their dovetail and the bolt handle can get quite close to the scope...but I don't have any problems using mine and as you can see the scopes are pretty close to the barrel and also quite large eye bell generally!

 Magtech semi at the bottom, all the rest are CZ.

 

 

[1066]

Agree, not really a problem. I think the older Brno 2E with open sights was a classic rabbit harvester, a job to beat from any angle. For the last 10-20 years the use of scopes on rimfires, has become the norm, to such an extent there are many new shooter who know nothing else. It just seems to me that CZ are making the same "open sight" rifle, but thinking "we'll put a little dovetail on just for those few odd balls who want to use one of those new fangled scopes."

Not knocking CZ at all, I have an accurate 527. It just struck me, when they phased out the 452 and introduced the (cheaper to manufacture) 455 they missed a chance.

[Dekers]

1 hour ago, 1066 said:

Agree, not really a problem. I think the older Brno 2E with open sights was a classic rabbit harvester, a job to beat from any angle. For the last 10-20 years the use of scopes on rimfires, has become the norm, to such an extent there are many new shooter who know nothing else. It just seems to me that CZ are making the same "open sight" rifle, but thinking "we'll put a little dovetail on just for those few odd balls who want to use one of those new fangled scopes."

Not knocking CZ at all, I have an accurate 527. It just struck me, when they phased out the 452 and introduced the (cheaper to manufacture) 455 they missed a chance.

Fair point, and who knows their thinking, but there are mounts out there and people have probably got used to the way they are! 

I don't actually see it hurting their sales (perhaps I'm wrong), and in honesty I've never heard anyone saying I'm not buying one because of the dovetail/bolt.  

For whatever reason I have heard people complain more about this similar issue on their centrefires though!   

[Guest]

Hi chaps, just got back from the gun shop and prombem solved! Turned out the mounts were far too high hence why I was way low and couldn’t adjust it further... They swapped the mounts to some much shorter ones and fitted a new replacement scope to be on the safe side. They used a laser bore sighter and it was dead on at 50yards so hopefully after a bit of plinking she should be dead on! Cheers for all the help! 

[oldypigeonpopper]

On 4/4/2018 at 15:06, Dekers said:

My money is still on the scope or mounts.

It may be worth taking the mod off to try, but as you say you have excellent grouping that seems an unlikely cause, but best to start eliminating.

Do you have another scope/mounts to try?

What is the scope, and on a sort of side issue, the mounts seem quite high, always best to keep the scope as close to the barrel as sensible.

If you have just got this and it came as a package why not just take it back and ask the RFD to sort it?

hello,  looks like you were right dekers on the mounts as other mentioned, still from last post now all sorted 

[1066]

 

Pleased you have your problem sorted and the lower mounts certainly look better and should give you a more natural shooting position.

I really don't think that was the problem though. Having the scope  half an inch higher but still correctly fitted does effect the "point and shoot zone", the distance where you will be either half an inch above or below your target but not the ability of being able to zero the scope.

My guess is that they were the wrong mounts or incorrectly fitted in the first place. in the first place, 

Edited April 8, 2018 by 1066

[Dekers]

3 hours ago, 1066 said:

 

Pleased you have your problem sorted and the lower mounts certainly look better and should give you a more natural shooting position.

I really don't think that was the problem though. Having the scope  half an inch higher but still correctly fitted does effect the "point and shoot zone", the distance where you will be either half an inch above or below your target but not the ability of being able to zero the scope.

My guess is that they were the wrong mounts or incorrectly fitted in the first place. in the first place, 

Totally agree, whilst the issue may still have been the mounts, the fact they may be a bit higher than perhaps ideal, would not have given the problems experienced at all.

Apparently all fixed now so that's the main thing!