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Shed Roof


discobob
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I have picked the wrong time of year to build a new shed. It is replacing a 17 year (at least) old shed and has a fixed base of 7'x7' and will be reusing that. I have built the framework for the walls and it will be a pent roof that is going onto it.

I want to have an overhang of a foot or so at the front, 6 inches on one side and and less on the back - and the last side will be about 2 foot. 

My question is the way to run the wood. If I put the joists running from front to back, I will have to extend with ladders in the stud work for both sides, my thinking is that if I run from side to side, with the exception of a double stud on the back to extend that, I would only have to do a ladder to the front - or is there another reason why I would have to go back to front that I am not seeing?

I need to be able to get onto the roof to be able to cut the conifers that belong to the neighbour and I am no bantum weighg :)

Walls are built with 3x2 on 600mm centers and looking at 4x2 for the roof or would 3x2 on 600 centers be OK?

@MODERATORS - Just realised it is in the wrong section - apologies... can you please move

Edited by discobob
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If you're going to be climbing/walking on it, I'd use minimum 4x2's @ 400mm centres [preferably 5x2's] running front to back with the 'ladders' to the sides. 18mm ply for the sheeting, not  OSB.

I'd have used 4x2 for the front and rear, [3x2 for the sides is ok] also @ 400mm centres.

12mm ply to all internal faces for strength and rigidity, and for infinite fixing points 😉

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22 minutes ago, JKD said:

If you're going to be climbing/walking on it, I'd use minimum 4x2's @ 400mm centres [preferably 5x2's] running front to back with the 'ladders' to the sides. 18mm ply for the sheeting, not  OSB.

I'd have used 4x2 for the front and rear, [3x2 for the sides is ok] also @ 400mm centres.

12mm ply to all internal faces for strength and rigidity, and for infinite fixing points 😉

actually - it is 400 centers I have done on the walls - I am putting 45 degree braces on each corner of each wall to add to it as well - so I will replicate them centres to the roof then.

Front and back have double wall plates well screwed together for the roof to go on top of - I know the old shed could take a leg but it was as wobbly as anything and those studs are one inch and relying on the cladding to give it strength - I will be using 18mm OSB for the roof - black jacked up - as when I go on it I will put a scaffold board along the length to spread the weight - have you seen the price of plywood nowadays. 

45 minutes ago, steve1066 said:

Use 25mm thick plywood you then wouldn’t need so many bearers just one down the middle to minimise the bounce.

again - the price of plywood nowadays is ridiculous!!! and two sheets would be needed

 

I need to decide on if I go rubber or felt for the roofing (torch on heavy stuff....).

I redone the old shed roof in lockdown as that was cheap felt that had cracked along the ridge and water had got in the OSB and used T&G and torch on felt - its a shame but the floor is going on this one - and it has been patched a number of times already....And building a shed is something I have wanted to do for a good few years now :)

 

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4 hours ago, TIGHTCHOKE said:

I thought that was the original title!   

It was indeed but unfortunately you need walls for a shed!!

The Hikoki first fix nail gun has been in action this evening. 

I am making it as modular as possible. Walls have been done with screws and will bolt together, but the roof structure I am using ring shank nails for the 4by2 - but I need to order some more of that, ply for the floor and OSB3 T&G for the roof or if I can’t find that it will be ply as well. I have found some decent priced T&G cladding of decent thickness

 

 

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