impala59 Posted March 15 Report Share Posted March 15 Following previous advice from the PW massive, I now always use silver steel for the various firing pins I have made and modified. Heating to cherry, oil quenching, polishing then heating to blue and again oil quenching has been totally successful. I have made for myself and also for friends, something like 30 to date, reviving many cabinet loiterers. my question is, would this be the same process for extractors? It would seem so to me as the only hard connection with anything is with the case, much as the firing pin only connects with the primer. I should be grateful for all advice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted March 15 Report Share Posted March 15 i do the heat thing and tempering differently.....but if it works for you ... what part of the extractor are you doing...? i ask this as the rod that enterers the extractor (on a sxs) is silver soldered into position....so that will guvern the temp you will temper...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
impala59 Posted March 15 Author Report Share Posted March 15 I am looking at single piece semi auto/ pump so no soldering, but your advice will be kept as my club mates do bring in some weird and wonderful stuff ! thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy H Posted March 17 Report Share Posted March 17 Most auto/pump extractors are stamped out of steel sheet and then hardened / tempered, Your way of hardening may work but I would only temper to a straw colour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted March 18 Report Share Posted March 18 On 17/03/2024 at 00:06, Andy H said: Most auto/pump extractors are stamped out of steel sheet and then hardened / tempered, Your way of hardening may work but I would only temper to a straw colour. also make sure you know your steel..is it O or W...harden to non-magnetic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enfieldspares Posted March 18 Report Share Posted March 18 On 15/03/2024 at 17:41, impala59 said: It would seem so to me as the only hard connection with anything is with the case, much as the firing pin only connects with the primer. The thing would, surely, be in contact with the barrel? Or if an ejector and not an extractor it'd be in contact with the other extractor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
impala59 Posted March 21 Author Report Share Posted March 21 (edited) It runs into a machined slot but doesn’t impact steel to steel. The extractor spring allows it to ride over the cartridge rim and then keeps it in place when extracting. The ejector is a separate fixed block on the opposite side of the receiver which imparts a spin on the fired case, thus ejecting and releasing the case from the extractor.or in this case fingers which flip the case out On 18/03/2024 at 08:41, ditchman said: also make sure you know your steel..is it O or W...harden to non-magnetic Cheers! Great advice! Edited March 22 by impala59 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enfieldspares Posted March 22 Report Share Posted March 22 Ah so this is for a bolt action rifle (or bolt action shotgun) not a side by side or over and under gun? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIGHTCHOKE Posted March 22 Report Share Posted March 22 5 hours ago, enfieldspares said: Ah so this is for a bolt action rifle (or bolt action shotgun) not a side by side or over and under gun? It's purely a guess, but I would put good money on it being for a PUMP Gun or a SELF-LOADER. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
impala59 Posted March 22 Author Report Share Posted March 22 (edited) 6 hours ago, enfieldspares said: Ah so this is for a bolt action rifle (or bolt action shotgun) not a side by side or over and under gun? Yes, for an old pump gun that a friend managed to chip a corner off the extractor by not aligning the barrel correctly. (after cleaning he cycled the thing, thought it was a bit stiff so kept on cycling it! ) he admitted his guilt when I pointed out the damage on the barrel cut-out and the broken extractor. Hopefully will be able to repair ( he was going to put it in an auction to get rid!) 1 hour ago, TIGHTCHOKE said: It's purely a guess, but I would put good money on it being for a PUMP Gun or a SELF-LOADER. Ah! you know me so well! Another 37 saved (I hope) I will be making him an alignment tool also!! Edited March 22 by impala59 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enfieldspares Posted March 22 Report Share Posted March 22 Aha! That the rear of the barrel is damaged and the corner of the extractor chipper tells me all I need to know. The original extractor was hardened. I'd harden in with a case hardening powder. Especially as modern cartridge heads (that it hits and rides over as it goes forward and then grips to remove them) are now steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
impala59 Posted March 22 Author Report Share Posted March 22 37 minutes ago, enfieldspares said: Aha! That the rear of the barrel is damaged and the corner of the extractor chipper tells me all I need to know. The original extractor was hardened. I'd harden in with a case hardening powder. Especially as modern cartridge heads (that it hits and rides over as it goes forward and then grips to remove them) are now steel. Thanks for the advice! And apologies for not being clearer initially! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.