New shooter, New or used shotgun.

[RobThom]

Hi Gents.

New to this game, waiting for certificate approval at the moment.

Only plan to shoot clays.

Question is do I go second hand or buy a cheaper new one eg ATA black sporter.

Thanks.

[TIGHTCHOKE]

Welcome board.   

 

Post your question in the Guns and Equipment section and I'm sure you'll get plenty of guidance.

[RCB56]

Welcome to pigeonwatch, as TC said if you post in the Guns and Equipment section you will plenty of options and another post under your belt.

[Bigbob]

Hello and welcome mate , You been to a shop and see what fits you ?>

[Scully]

4 hours ago, RobThom said:

Hi Gents.

New to this game, waiting for certificate approval at the moment.

Only plan to shoot clays.

Question is do I go second hand or buy a cheaper new one eg ATA black sporter.

Thanks.

Quality second hand is always better than cheap new in my opinion. 

[Codlord]

I have gone over this decision with a second gun recently. I don't think you would go wrong with a new ATA, I have heard good things, they seem fairly well supported in the UK and of course you will get a manufacturer warranty (1 or 2 years? Not sure on ATA).

For the same money you will likely get a quality used gun which will hold it's value better. Private sale you will get no warranty of course, dealer sale warranty will depend on dealer, you should get at least 3 months, but some give 6 or more.

A couple of other bits of advice:

1) Check the gun fit. There are lots of youtube videos on fit and what you should seeing of the rib/bead. watch some before going to look at guns so you understand length-of-pull (LOP) and comb height and what can be done to change them to fit you correctly if required. My first gun did not fit me at all! The dealer just wanted a sale so gave me (a total newbie at the time) no help or advice.

2) I would check any gun and chokes you buy are steel proofed. Most newer guns are but for example my first gun is steel proofed but the chokes are lead-shot only, so of course I would need to buy new chokes in future to shoot steel shot.

And the result of my recent decision? I went for a quality (I hope!) used gun.

[Scully]

53 minutes ago, Codlord said:

I have gone over this decision with a second gun recently. I don't think you would go wrong with a new ATA, I have heard good things, they seem fairly well supported in the UK and of course you will get a manufacturer warranty (1 or 2 years? Not sure on ATA).

For the same money you will likely get a quality used gun which will hold it's value better. Private sale you will get no warranty of course, dealer sale warranty will depend on dealer, you should get at least 3 months, but some give 6 or more.

A couple of other bits of advice:

1) Check the gun fit. There are lots of youtube videos on fit and what you should seeing of the rib/bead. watch some before going to look at guns so you understand length-of-pull (LOP) and comb height and what can be done to change them to fit you correctly if required. My first gun did not fit me at all! The dealer just wanted a sale so gave me (a total newbie at the time) no help or advice.

2) I would check any gun and chokes you buy are steel proofed. Most newer guns are but for example my first gun is steel proofed but the chokes are lead-shot only, so of course I would need to buy new chokes in future to shoot steel shot.

And the result of my recent decision? I went for a quality (I hope!) used gun.

Point No 2 is incorrect. You can shoot steel shot ( even HP steel ) through none steel shot proof chokes. 

[Konor]

You commonly see chokes marked for instance lead quarter steel modified on the same choke. I had chokes like that for a Classic doubles I’m guessing but no longer have the chokes ,or gun , to check. It may have been on a Winchester model 23 wildfowl model again no longer with me.

[Codlord]

23 minutes ago, Scully said:

Point No 2 is incorrect. You can shoot steel shot ( even HP steel ) through none steel shot proof chokes. 

@Scully The chokes say "lead-shot only" on them. Why would they have that printed on them if they were safe for steel?

[Scully]

7 minutes ago, Codlord said:

@Scully The chokes say "lead-shot only" on them. Why would they have that printed on them if they were safe for steel?

They’re printed with ‘lead only’ because they haven’t been steel shot proofed. If they’re safe for nitro proof then they’re safe for steel. 

[Konor]

10 minutes ago, Codlord said:

@Scully The chokes say "lead-shot only" on them. Why would they have that printed on them if they were safe for steel?

Perhaps they are 3/4 or Full choke and advice seems to be restrict choke for steel to a maximum of half and in the case of HP steel cartridges 1/4 though there is plenty of evidence of shooters using the tighter chokes with steel shot with no issues observed.

[Codlord]

1 minute ago, Konor said:

Perhaps they are 3/4 or Full choke and advice seems to be restrict choke for steel to a maximum of half and in the case of HP steel cartridges 1/4 though there is plenty of evidence of shooters using the tighter chokes with steel shot with no issues observed.

@Konor Yes you are correct, I had 2 in the gun and 3 in the case and the first 2 I grabbed said "Lead Shot Only" and are indeed the Full and 3/4. I guess the others don't have that on them. Here to learn and I have learned something!

Anyway, I am kind of hijacking this thread so enough of that and back to the OP's question 🙂

[Scully]

1 hour ago, Codlord said:

@Konor Yes you are correct, I had 2 in the gun and 3 in the case and the first 2 I grabbed said "Lead Shot Only" and are indeed the Full and 3/4. I guess the others don't have that on them. Here to learn and I have learned something!

Anyway, I am kind of hijacking this thread so enough of that and back to the OP's question 🙂

And they’re still ok ( even at 3/4 and full ) for standard steel. 👍