gadgit Posted January 7, 2008 Report Share Posted January 7, 2008 :o :o Its all hapened today folks! Fistly, the licence has flown into the mailbox! Picked up the gun as well.....686 special / sporter. Checking the chokes out has thrown me into confusion. All have letters on them apart from one, 1 / No letters....plain with a spot . 2 / PB-CL-SP C**** 5 slots thread end. 3 / PB-IC-SP **** 4 slots................. 4 / PB-M-SP *** 3 slot.................. 5 / PB-IC-SP **** 4 slots................ Well chaps whats this all mean then..... i'm presuming Full choke, 1/8...1/4...1/2...3/4 somewhere in this confusion.....eH? some help will be useful. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the last engineer Posted January 7, 2008 Report Share Posted January 7, 2008 :o :o Its all hapened today folks! Fistly, the licence has flown into the mailbox! Picked up the gun as well.....686 special / sporter. Checking the chokes out has thrown me into confusion. All have letters on them apart from one, 1 / No letters....plain with a spot . 2 / PB-CL-SP C**** 5 slots thread end. 3 / PB-IC-SP **** 4 slots................. 4 / PB-M-SP *** 3 slot.................. 5 / PB-IC-SP **** 4 slots................ Well chaps whats this all mean then..... i'm presuming Full choke, 1/8...1/4...1/2...3/4 somewhere in this confusion.....eH? some help will be useful. Thanks. cl cylinder ic improoved cylinder m modified f.y.i. .000 restriction - cylinder .005 restriction - skeet .010 restriction - improved cylinder .015 restriction - light modified .020 restriction - modified .025 restriction - improved modified .030 restriction - light full .035 restriction - full .040 restriction - extra full Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexm Posted January 7, 2008 Report Share Posted January 7, 2008 (edited) 1 slot - full 2 slots - 3/4 3 slots - 1/2 4 slots - 1/4 5 slots - improved cylinder (English) no slots - cylinder Edited January 7, 2008 by alexm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catamong Posted January 7, 2008 Report Share Posted January 7, 2008 :o :o Its all hapened today folks! Fistly, the licence has flown into the mailbox! Picked up the gun as well.....686 special / sporter. Checking the chokes out has thrown me into confusion. All have letters on them apart from one, 1 / No letters....plain with a spot . 2 / PB-CL-SP C**** 5 slots thread end. 3 / PB-IC-SP **** 4 slots................. 4 / PB-M-SP *** 3 slot.................. 5 / PB-IC-SP **** 4 slots................ Well chaps whats this all mean then..... i'm presuming Full choke, 1/8...1/4...1/2...3/4 somewhere in this confusion.....eH? some help will be useful. Thanks. Hi gadgit, 1 / Full choke, (swop it for another cylinder choke if you want to shoot Sporting, as it's too tight). 2 / Cylinder, (Make sure you have 2 of these, a useful choke) 3 / Improved Cylinder (1/4, another useful choke) 4 / Modified (1/2, you should only need this one for about 10% of Sporting Clays) 5 / As 3 above..?? Make sure you grease the threads up a bit otherwise they can be a sod to remove. Cat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadgit Posted January 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2008 thanks chaps, brilliant as allways!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexm Posted January 8, 2008 Report Share Posted January 8, 2008 No worries. It can be a bit confusing because Beretta chokes are labelled using the continental names so what they call 'Improved Cylinder' is really 1/4, 'Cylinder' is Improved Cylinder and Skeet is (true) Cylinder. This might make things a little clearer: Notches British Beretta Marking ---------------------------------------------------------- True cylinder Skeet (SK) ***** Improved cylinder Cylinder (CL) **** 1/4 Improved cylinder (IC) *** 1/2 Modified (M) ** 3/4 Improved modified (IM) * Full Full (F) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest The Outlaw Posted January 8, 2008 Report Share Posted January 8, 2008 No worries. It can be a bit confusing because Beretta chokes are labelled using the continental names so what they call 'Improved Cylinder' is really 1/4, 'Cylinder' is Improved Cylinder and Skeet is (true) Cylinder. This might make things a little clearer: Notches British Beretta Marking ---------------------------------------------------------- True cylinder Skeet (SK) ***** Improved cylinder Cylinder (CL) **** 1/4 Improved cylinder (IC) *** 1/2 Modified (M) ** 3/4 Improved modified (IM) * Full Full (F) A good table that Alexm Do they tell you where to draw the line with steel shot as this would make a difference. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexm Posted January 8, 2008 Report Share Posted January 8, 2008 (edited) A good table that Alexm :o Do they tell you where to draw the line with steel shot as this would make a difference. Tony, I think 'SP' means proofed for steel shot on the chokes if you mean the markings... although whether or not it's a good idea to use very tight chokes even if they are marked 'SP' is debatable. It's like all these things... ask 5 people, get 5 different opinions! It's the hot topic at one of the grounds I shoot at because they have started flogging cheap steel cartridges. Someone was adamant you shouldn't use more than 1/2 choke, someone else said they had been using 3/4 with no signs of wear.... I'd kind of like to know the answer myself because I almost exclusively use 1/2 and 3/4 for clays! The other thing people might find useful is identifying which type of flush fitting choke they have... I have 3 Berettas and they all have different sets of chokes! In general for flush fit chokes: The newer semi auto's use Optima Plus Newer Competition guns use Optima Older guns and guns 20 bore and under use Mobilchoke Some of the competition semi's use extended versions of the above. Edited January 8, 2008 by alexm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pin Posted January 8, 2008 Report Share Posted January 8, 2008 On the steel front, it's all about pressures not wear. Steel is WAY harder than lead therefore will not deform anywhere near as much as lead when constricted by the choke. Use more than 1/2 choke and it's not wear you might end up with, but an exploding gun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexm Posted January 8, 2008 Report Share Posted January 8, 2008 (edited) We're going a little off topic here, but according to the CIP regs... http://www.basc.org.uk/media/cip_regulatio...steel_shot1.pdf It would appear the half choke rule only comes in to play for 'High Performance' steel cartridges (i.e. those only to be used in guns specifically proofed for steel), and then only for over a certain shot size. For 'Standard' steel cartridges (i.e. those designed to be used in guns that aren't specifically proofed for steel) there is no mention of any choke limit! Edited January 8, 2008 by alexm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berettaman1 Posted January 8, 2008 Report Share Posted January 8, 2008 :lol: Its all hapened today folks! Fistly, the licence has flown into the mailbox! Picked up the gun as well.....686 special / sporter. Checking the chokes out has thrown me into confusion. All have letters on them apart from one, 1 / No letters....plain with a spot . 2 / PB-CL-SP C**** 5 slots thread end. 3 / PB-IC-SP **** 4 slots................. 4 / PB-M-SP *** 3 slot.................. 5 / PB-IC-SP **** 4 slots................ Well chaps whats this all mean then..... i'm presuming Full choke, 1/8...1/4...1/2...3/4 somewhere in this confusion.....eH? some help will be useful. Thanks. What you have there bud is --Full.....cylinder.....1/4....1/2.... 1/4.. this aplies to most manafactureres systems... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadgit Posted January 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2008 Thats cleared the first part up then! So, As a starter on clays, with this my first gun, what would you advise I should use for both barrells bearing in mind what chokes I have? Can't wait to start the ball rolling on this one!!!! I'm expecting different answers!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the last engineer Posted January 8, 2008 Report Share Posted January 8, 2008 personaly i like both barrels with the same choke, it saves bending your brain as to what you have where and why, throw in two ic improoved cylinders adn go for it, this should give you a .01" restriction, more than enough to control your shot at the targets you'll see, skeet or .005" is perfect for targets around the 22 yd mark, you will find a few further out say 30- 40 plus this will cover you for the begining, find your way and adjust as nessasary, try to stay clear of the i'll change every station brigade, you'll waste time and lose frinds, not to mention giving your brain a hard time, two I.C. and shoot your little heart out, make sure you have fun. Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexm Posted January 8, 2008 Report Share Posted January 8, 2008 (edited) Thats cleared the first part up then! So, As a starter on clays, with this my first gun, what would you advise I should use for both barrells bearing in mind what chokes I have? Can't wait to start the ball rolling on this one!!!! I'm expecting different answers!! Yes, potential can of worms this one! Personally I prefer to shoot moderately tight chokes (1/2 & 3/4) for virtually all sporting clays because: a. When I'm bang on the targets they break very convincingly and this gives confidence b. When I'm slightly off the targets I am more likely to see if I am hitting one edge and can adjust accordingly (a nice tight pattern will smash one edge off, whereas a loose pattern is more likely to just ping the clay into two halves) What I am sacrificing is a bit of pattern diameter on the nearer targets, but I am (hopefully!) of a standard that I won't need the extra leeway for the nearer targets! The likes of Digweed obviously have even more confidence in their ability on the nearer targets and hence shoot full choke for virtually everything! However, for someone new at clays I would advise using some fairly open chokes to start with as it's more important for to get yourself hitting some clays to build confidence even if it means some chippy breaks. Just HOW open depends on the sort of targets you are going to be shooting. What discipline are you going to be focusing on? For example if you are shooting skeet or not too distant sporting targets I'd put your Improved Cyl (*****) in the bottom and 1/4 (****) in the top. Whilst maybe not dusting the clays this combination will still break the majority of targets quite happily. If the targets are a little further out then maybe 1/4,1/4 or 1/4,1/2. Edited January 8, 2008 by alexm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadgit Posted January 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2008 Thats it then, 1/4 in the top and Improved Cylinder in the bottom. i'll let you know how I get on. Thanks to all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highseas Posted February 23, 2008 Report Share Posted February 23, 2008 (edited) are breda chokes the same as beretta chokes if so what is one with 1 notch in it and what does 3 stares mean and theres one that says "steel shot ok" Edited February 23, 2008 by highseas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.