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how to tell if my clutch is going


flash
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so basically you have a lot of pedal travel before it bites/engages?

 

If so it is a sign of wear and you may be able to adjust it so it engages earlier but I haven't played with a landrover so don't know you'd need to look for an adjuster on the end of the clutch cable

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Go to a steep hill. Ascend in too high a gear. If clutch is on its way out - engine speed will rise, but car will slow down, not stall. You will literally hear the clutch slipping.

 

 

A better test is to be on level ground and have the handbrake full on, with just a few more revs than usual try to pull away, the clutch may slip a little, but enough for you to hear it before the engine stalls, or the engine will stall immediately which indicates the clutch is not slipping and is fine.

 

But dont make a habit of doing it though as it puts strain on the uj,s.

 

Lb is your man for detailed questions, he knows his stuff and will be able to give you the low down without the faffing.

 

:blush: D2D

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All Landrovers have a hydraulic clutch, but I am not sure if the defender has any adjustment betwen the clutch pedal and master cylinder. When you pump the clutch pedal, does it bite earlier? It is recommended to change the fluid every so often, it can be a surprising (and cheapest) fix.

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was told by a mate i have a ******** master cylinder, as there is oil leaking from the clutch pedal onto the footwell mat.

could this be the problem.

 

cheers

 

flash

 

Yes. That could be it.

 

Your friction plate is fine if its not slipping once its down.

 

There's just barely enough hydraulic pressure to disengage it, before long you wont be able to disengage it enough to get it inot gear.

 

When you change it remember that clutch fluid is the best paint stripper in the world.

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Now you've given more info, master cylinder at fault or pipes adjacent. You don't have to replace cylinder, just replace the seals on the piston, available from Paddocks, unless the bore is damaged due to dirty oil. Not a hard job to do, just fiddly.

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I hope your fix works out cheaper than mine will flash, car going in tomorrow for new clutch and damn dual mass flywheel, £1450 :lol: ........and, yes, i'd tryed everywhere to better that price, that was pitting one vauxhall dealer against others in the end. Oh what I could've bought with that!, i'm trying not to think about it until I have to enter my pin no. into the little machine, hopefully i'll be able to stifle any audible sobbing noises.

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Just as a point of interest L UK the clutch people now do a solid flywheel conversion for most models of car i would give your local motor factors a ring by which i dont mean the motorist centre

If the do a solid flywheel then get it fitted over the ddf unit i have fitted a fair few with no noticable difference to car

 

good luck jim

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Just as a point of interest L UK the clutch people now do a solid flywheel conversion for most models of car i would give your local motor factors a ring by which i dont mean the motorist centre

If the do a solid flywheel then get it fitted over the ddf unit i have fitted a fair few with no noticable difference to car

 

good luck jim

 

seems not so for my car tho' jim..........i've read about loads of problems with these dual mass jobbies, still perhaps they'll be available if I still have the car in another 50 odd thousand miles!

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When the clutch went on my car you could pull away fine, also if its a diesel you should be able to full away on the clutch alone.

 

My clutch would slip when doing about 50 with the engine in the torque band, floor it and the revs would rise up and then slowly go down again as the car caught up and the clutch stopped slipping.

 

Sounds like you dropped the clutch for half a second.

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