davie mac Posted February 1, 2009 Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 a friend of mine has offered me the pick of the litter what i would like to know is what do you look for in a pup or do you just pick the first one that runs to you forgot to say they are Labrador's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Dog Posted February 1, 2009 Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 Davie, ask ten people how they pick a pup and you are likely to get ten different answers. When you view the litter go for the pup that you are most drawn too. As long as an individual doesn't have some sort of physical problem just go with the flow. Trying to pick one from another is very difficult at the young age. At the end of the day it's what effort you want to put into the training that counts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davie mac Posted February 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2009 thanks fat dog, im not looking for a field champion or anything just for it to bring back what i happen to shoot and im thinking a dog would be good company for those days when your on your own if the field,i also want to do more duck shooting so a dog is a must thanks for the advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Huntinlass Posted February 2, 2009 Report Share Posted February 2, 2009 I have heard the darker the pups eyes the better they work- whether thats a old wives tale who knows- but when people come to pick a pup when we have bred- it tends to be the smaller bitches or the larger dogs that go first. Sometimes you get people who pick the first dog that goes to them, and other people pick the shy dog at the back.- Just to confuse you!! - study the pups, don't be afraid to spend a bit of time looking at them, handling them, and seeing how the interact with one another and humans. I don't know whether they are over 6 wks yet but if they are you should easily see the different personalities they have. Choose one that will fit into your family. As Fat Dog said make sure they are healthy and there are no physical problems. At the end of the day everyone has a different taste in a dog. Your ability to train the dog will be the most important thing. If you are use to calming a dog down then go for the forward dog. Or if you are use to bring a shy dog on, then get a more quite one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silver_pigeon Posted February 2, 2009 Report Share Posted February 2, 2009 I agree, if you ask 10 different people you'll get 10 different answers, it is down to personal choice! Most people however, will say look for the brightest, most curious and alert pup, the sign of a good worker! Alongside you want to be looking for a happy healthy pup, look for one who is not shivering/shaking in the corner and reacting adverseley to noise, and my personal preference......let the pup pick you! Both our pups have been the last of litter left but have has turned out to be fantastic lads, bright and alert as v.young puppies and a pleasure to own! Our new baby boy Toby was tanking around everywhere when we saw him (eating cat food!) and he's stuck to us like glue from day 1! However, when my parents chose their last pup he bounded everywhere and was into everything, but he has turned out to be a little nervous, that was obviously the change coming away from the "pack"! As you say, you are not looking for a Field Trial Champion so just look for the happiest and healthiest you can see int he bunch..and the best of luck! I hope this helps a little.. Dogs are a complete gift to us humans, they give you everything...with no guarantee of return! ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Santlache Posted February 2, 2009 Report Share Posted February 2, 2009 (edited) Personal choice or not here's a few points I always look for in Terriers but it applies for any breed really. Gait: Look at the pups walk, do they walk straight, and from the rear check if the legs kick out at all. Is the movement in the hips OK. Get behind the pup and hold them up with the back legs on the ground and both the front legs up and forward so you are looking directly onto them - are the legs and paws straight. Are the legs in proportion to the body for the breed. When standing straight are the legs evenly spaced apart, and not bow or too tight into each other. Head: Size is a matter of taste in all breeds but again should be in proportion to the body, so not too big and also not too small. Eyes Bright, alert and healthy looking. Teeth, Difficult to judge in a pup but even at this age you can check the jaw for a level bite, or if they have an under or over shot jaw. Top Line: This is the same for most breeds and a common fault, look at the dog standing upright with it looking forward, from the bottom of the neck to the tail should be a straight line down the back, it should not dip down and then come back up again to the tail. Coat: Again difficult to tell so young and it depends also on the breed, but in all cases it should be healthy looking with no sparse areas. Ears: This may seem odd but each breed has different types of ears, i.e. Terriers should not stand straight up but tilt over halfway. Attract the pups attention, does it respond to noises OK. Tails: Docked breeds should be done between 3-5 days so it'll be too late if they haven't been done. If intact they should have no kinks but each breed has a separate ideal setting regarding the tail and how it should sit. For docked breeds they should be a good hand hold. For Terriers they should carry it straight up, forming a right angle between the back and the tail. Borders which aren't docked should sit straight out from the back in a line, like an extension to it's top line. Dogs: Can you feel two balls, they won't have dropped yet but they should just about be there tucked up inside. Few dogs are perfect, but looking at all these points is a good starter to finding the best pup in a litter. It should be done as late as you possibly can with the breeder as the older they are the better it is to check these points for any faults and make a choice. Cheers Edited February 3, 2009 by Santlache Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davie mac Posted February 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2009 thanks for the advice lads il keep it in mind Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
casts_by_fly Posted February 3, 2009 Report Share Posted February 3, 2009 to me, you pick the breeding and the pup will follow. If you want a good hunting dog, you pick two parents who have produced quality hunting pups in past litters. They should both be healthy dogs with the build/physique that you are looking for in your dog. Once you've done that, when you pick the pup pick the one that has the right color for you and that seems to like you. Let them all loose in a closed area. Go for a walk if you can and see which one seems to stick with you. Let them play for a bit on their own and call them over. Or just pick the cute on. You can't go wrong with the cute one. Thanks, Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Santlache Posted February 4, 2009 Report Share Posted February 4, 2009 (edited) You start off well, Rick, spot on and I couldn't agree more - "Pick the breeding and the Pup will follow" Then I'm afraid you fall apart and completely loose it at the end. Colour is purely cosmetic on a dog and has no influence on whether it'll be a good working dog or not. The same for cuteness, all pups are cute and that has no relation to which animal will be any good. You take complete pot luck with a Pup, so all you can do is look at the breeding and check that all the vital bits are in order which I mention above. Then cross your fingers and hope it'll turn into a good 'un with some hard work from you. Any breeder who says to you, "That'll be a good little worker" is talking utter nonsense, as they haven't any more of a clue than you if it'll turn out OK or if it'll be rubbish when it's eventually taken in the field. Edited February 4, 2009 by Santlache Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
casts_by_fly Posted February 4, 2009 Report Share Posted February 4, 2009 santlache, That was kinda my point. You pick the parents and the rest will follow. You can't know at 6-8 weeks whether a particular pup will be a good worker or not. That's why when it comes time to pick the specific pup, pick the one that you like the looks of. It is as good a criteria as any. All pups are cute, but some are cuter than others. As a side note, color can be a good way to pick a dog, though it won't determine working ability. If you're hunting in hotter, sunny climates then lighter colored dogs are a good idea. Likewise, if you're grouse hunting in the eastern woods (US) for grouse and woodcock, the cover can be really heavy. A light colored pointing dog with a high tail can be a big asset when you can't find a dog on point. Thanks Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Santlache Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 With all respect I beg to disagree, Rick. Whenever I judge Working Terriers at Hunt and Country Shows, when a dog enters the ring it's colour is of no interest to me whatsoever as long as it conforms to the breed standard. My Jack Russell Terriers as a breed should be at least 51% white - hardly good for blending in with the cover unless it's weather like today and almost a white-out. They are also used for work on every continent and in all climates from Sweden in Winter to the heat of Australia and South Africa. All white dogs are not much use in hot climates as they tend to lack pigment in the skin, and on hot days it causes a reddening around the eyes which can get quite sore and irritable. As to picking the one in the litter you like the look of.......... I almost did that many years ago when I got my first Russell, the chap who bred it was an internationally respected Terrierman and he said no, you'll be wanting this one, trust me, it's a better dog. The one I wanted wouldn't work and ended up being sold as a pet to an old lady, whereas the one I took has worked to Fox for me and is a good busher and ratter. He has also won me seven Working Terrier Championships and I've also bred a JRTCGB National Show winning pup from him too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geordieh Posted February 7, 2009 Report Share Posted February 7, 2009 Hi all If colour makes no difference why hasn't a chocolate lab won a field trial yet i have not seen a really good chocolate lab yet Geordie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokingdragon Posted February 7, 2009 Report Share Posted February 7, 2009 It depends on what you want in your dog. I need my dogs to be part of my family so they have to be socialised. Until January we just had 2 14th month cockers that live in the house :o . We have just bought another house with land attached to it and so we decided that we wanted another Dobermann to give us a bit more security than the cockers offer! We viewed a few litters where the pups wouldn't come near us or even greet the cockers! In the end we saw a litter that was in a family living room and the pups were just all over us and one in particular seemed very happy to be with us and so we decided on that particular girl. This process took us a few months so take your time and get a pup that you are happy with and can fit in with the rest of your family environment. Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveK Posted February 8, 2009 Report Share Posted February 8, 2009 (edited) Watch the pups and see which one picks you. Worked for me and for the owners of Megs last litter You really want a pup that isn't too pushy and isn't too timid. The one you should pick will come to you, have a look round and a sniff (and pull your shoelaces which is mandatory in a lab). It will then have had enough and go and do something more interesting. Get the breeder to do a lot of clanging and banging with feeding bowls. You don't want one that cowers in a corner. If both parents are working stock don't put too much importance on hip scores and eye tests. These problems mostly come from show stock. Lastly, where's NTTF when you need an expert. But as previously said, ask 12 people and you'll get 12 answers. PS. Go for a bitch rather than a dog. They tend to grow up quicker and learn faster. (shame their human counterparts don't :o ) Edited February 8, 2009 by DaveK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fallarben Posted February 8, 2009 Report Share Posted February 8, 2009 hi everyone on picking a pup from a litter i use a method not many people think of firstly pick the pups out the litter u dont like for what ever reason then i usualy pick the runt of whats left because they have already learned to think for them selfs to live i notice alot of people have said go for the breeding im guessing your a novice handler and alot of trial bred pups are hot as they are bred for speed a old keeper once told me when the dog wont work il take the paperwork picking up so i always think youve as much chance from 2 good working dogs as you have 2 ftchs hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dustyfox Posted February 8, 2009 Report Share Posted February 8, 2009 You dont choose the pup the pup chooses you, thats what happened to me. My boy jake chose me all the litter came up to me but he was the first one to come to me and stayed with me while the others seemed to of got bored and started playing with eachother. And I made the right chose thanks to him. df Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
staglioni Posted February 8, 2009 Report Share Posted February 8, 2009 Think i would go with D.F on that one let the pup pick you a and your his for life :o stag Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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